GeneralDisorder

There's only a single filter on the EA82 carbs. EA81's have a filter and a vapor seperator (which includes a filter, but it is neither required, nor it's primary purpose). GD

I'll be installing it for her. Need a GL/Loyale assembly - hopefully local. And can someone move this to the classifieds? GD

Some of the 5200's have idle cut solenoids - did you wire it if it has one? There's really no way to get an "internal" vac leak unless the carb top gasket is shot - but assuming it's rebuilt that's not an issue I'm sure. Backfireing through the carb wouldn't hurt it. GD

Mine is heavily reinforced with 1/4" bar that's over 1" wide running from one bushing to the other. I have broken some rear axles, but I pulled them apart from too much articulation or exploded them on hard surface turns. I haven't bent my diff hanger since though! The first one I landed on a downed tree I drove over that had fallen across the trail. Basically it irrepairably tweaked the hanger, and caused one axle to tear apart a bit later as it had pushed the diff to one side. They are extremely weak, and I recommend anyone that's lifted reinforce it - cheap insurance for sure. Really need to add a fuel tank plate down there too as the tank is pretty vulnerable being steel. Either that or just yank it and put in a cell.... that'll probably be my solution. GD3

You can't without special tools. Only way I know of is to mark them before you take them off :-\. It's a complex process as those don't just hold the bearings, but also set the ring/pinion side play. If you set it wrong the diff could eat itself it short order. GD

Um..... NO! EA71 pistons aren't going to change much at all..... I guess I would know since I'm about the only person around here that's actually measured the difference. The difference is about .25:1 compression increase - and that's being generous. Displacement isn't going to change appreciably - still be close to 1.8. Even stock, the EA81 is really 1.781L anyway. Probably be real close to 1750cc with the EA71 pistons. Frankly they aren't worth using IMO as they have thinner ring lands. EA82 SPFI pistons are what you want my friend - they have cut-outs for the valves , unlike the flat top EA71/81 pistons. With those, you wouldn't have to shave the heads at all, and you would be at 9.5:1. With shaved heads - closer to 9.75:1 or higher. GD

Should work fine, yeah. Only difference is going to be the ECU will expect a clutch switch from the loyale - you can use the Loyale pedal assembly, or you can just ignore it. GD

Push button single range came on many years - mostly older turbo's, and DL's, then standard in 90 on the Loyale. All GL 4WD's had the D/R except automatics and turbo's. GD

Of course I do - but it's cardboard, not plastic. Plastic wouldn't seal anything - doesn't conform when it's put under pressure. GD

It's an ignition fuse then. Just find the bad one, and replace with some other fuse that you don't need. GD

1. Find a bad fuse 2. Find a good fuse of similar amp rating 3. swap the good fuse over to the bad socket 4. try to start car. If it doesn't start, the good one your pulled may be required too, so try using a different "good" one. Beyond that, it's difficult to really help you cause I can't see the fuse panel. Just cause some fuse powers the radio doesn't mean it also doesn't power something else that's required for the engine to run. Does it even crank? If not you probably blew the fuseable link that supplies the starter solenoid - that circuit isn't fused at the panel anyway. If that's the case, you'll have to replace the link, or "jumper" it with a bit of wire. That would actually make sense because many "aftermarket" radio installations steal power from the ignition circuit under the dash - which is unfused. So if you grounded that bad boy - you roasted the link. GD

Um..... no it doesn't quite work that way. Find and replace ALL bad fuses and THEN try to start the car.... K? Beyond that, perhaps a good book on electrical theory..... GD

Just steal a fuse from some other non-essencial circuit. Or wrap the blown fuse in tin-foil if you are really, really stuck. Emergency ONLY. GD

Fuse or fuseable link - that's about the only thing it could be. GD

The plastic spacers are dealer only for the Hitachi - you're talking about the spacer for the adaptor plate right? Otherwise - the Weber stuff - check at a VW parts house...... but I've never used anything plastic on a Weber other than the Hitachi spacer to raise up the adaptor plate. GD

You *could* do a lot of things manually, but it really doesn't make for a nice vehicle to drive, and in this case it's beneficial to run the AC compressor year round in order to circulate the compressor oil. I'll get you a pic of mine.... probably tommorow. It took maybe all of an hour to make it work. GD

Yes - several Alaskan members have commented on that. The Weber (without any hot air riser system), can ice up. Usually the throttle plates will stick open when the engine is reving hard. Snowman (who wrote the EA82 SPFI conversion manual) swapped out to SPFI partly because of this very problem. Here in the NW, it's not a problem. Temps rarely get below 20 here. So it's good to at least that low in my exprience, and none of mine have had trouble even up at the mountain where it's often closer to 10-15 degrees. GD

It's probably an EA82 3-door coupe..... I'm not 100% on this (someone correct me if I'm wrong), but I don't beleive EA81 hatchbacks came in automatic.... at least not in 86. I've never seen one that I can remember anyway ..... possibly one reason they never made a turbo hatch (besides the movie versions). I've seen 2WD 4 and 5 speeds, and 4 speed 4WD's.... but that's it. GD

Are they the possesors of the bonneville Justy? GD

Well - if you installed the Weber in the same basic config as the Hitachi, then the idle up should be to the right of the carb attached to the manifold. You will have to "adjust" the mounting so that it can actuate the lever as it was originally intended to do. I used some washers under the bracket, and I did some cutting to the mounting holes on the bracket so the solenoid would move up a bit more. A also welded a bolt to the arm of the solenoid to get it futher forward and to the left so it hits the throttle arm correctly. GD

He can't, because it isn't. GD

Nope - backfireing through the carb is an indication your valve timing is off. Make sure you are using the valve timing marks on the flywheel not the ignition timing marks, and put the drivers side cam mark straight up, the passenger side straight down, and throw the belts on. ONLY after you have done this, set the timing on the distributor. Comp. test won't help you if the valve timing is off. GD

You have to do a little custom fab work to make the AC idle-up solenoid work correctly with the weber. It's just one of those things.... GD

The infinity reference's fit in the stock locations no problem (that's what I was refereing to). Can't see em at all with the grills in place. Anything you "adapt" for the dash will be unseen as well. Although you can see a little of the one in the passenger side through the dash's fake vent speaker grill. GD

Yeah - IIRC, the drivers side is something silly like 2.5 x 3.25. The stereo shop will laugh at you. However, the new Infiniti reference's are thinner than they used to be, and actually fit in the door's without hitting the window mechanism now. Pretty good sound if you have a decent head unit to drive em. GD