GeneralDisorder

I didn't cut anything. The rack and column are not modified. I just used a second u-joint. GD

Performance upgrades? Yeah right. Looking for unicorns is fun too. Get an EJ22 if you want performance. For 27" tires, you are going to want a lift. You'll just beat the hell out of the body without it. For rims - just drill some chevy/toyota 6 lug, or convert your hubs to 6 lug. Pug rims are too hard to find replacements if you bend one. GD

They do if you want it to work smoothly. If everything is setup correctly you should be able to go in and out of 4WD high at freeway speeds without using the clutch, and with no resistance of the lever. GD

You should have asked us before you went and bought it. Not a good choice for a lot of reasons. That's cause there really isn't any. Not in the sense that you mean. There's things you can do, yes, but without full-on engine management, you'll blow the engine if you try to take it much past 10% above stock, and you might blow it doing nothing at all - don't look at it cross-eyed - they don't like that. We've seen about a billion of them, but if you must..... the 5 speed is good, but the part time 4WD is not appropriate for pavement. Unless it's the Full-Time 4WD model? Those are good tranny's, but most models were not equipped unless it was an RX or a high end GL/GL-10. Do a search for "5 lug swap". You'll need most of the front suspension from an XT6, and part of the rear to do it. The stock 4 lug has zero wheel/strut/spring options. It can get expensive because XT6's were rare, and are getting tough to find. Haha. With the heavy shell, and whopping 115 HP, you're going to be one of the slowest cars out there. Special? Yes - don't do it if you value your heads/headgaskets. BTW - you don't have an intercooler. These engines weren't built performance minded - many have come before you, and still others have spent years (I'm not kidding - we have a member that's spent years working on making a 200 HP EA82T even somewhat reliable, and he works for a subaru dealer). I can't even count the number of times he's "given up" on this engine. Without very expensive machine work, custom parts, and very, very sensitive engine management it's not going to happen. And when an EJ22 can be had for a few hundred, and tops the EA82 by 20 HP with no turbo at all..... well it's just not worth the time or effort. Anyway, your going to do what you like regardless what we say about it. But when you start looking for an early 90's turbo Legacy with the EJ22 turbo, and 5 speed AWD, you won't be able to say we didn't warn you. GD

Stab it with an ice pick (awl). Flashlight time. Drink two beers before starting - it may take marginally longer, but you won't be tempted to offer any small animals to the crankshaft gods in a late night cerimony. GD

That indicator has nothing to do with the fluid. That's a seperate indicator. The "!" with a circle means a bulb is out. GD

Looks kosher to me. Why would they lie about it? GD

It's the brake lamp checker. There's a device in the brake lamp circuits that will trip that indicator if the bulb fails. Corrosion in the bulb socket can also cause intermittant illumination of the indicator. The checker's themselves rarely fail. GD

AC voltage. Replace alt. Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic. -- Arthur C. Clarke Just replace your alt - I really am not in the mood to explain the ins and outs of AC voltage for the billionth time on here. Search for it if you care. GD

It's not the HP so much - it's the torque. The engine can't breath at low RPM, so the torque curve sucks on the small valve engines. Peak torque and peak HP are nearly the same, but if you look at the curve, it's quite a bit different on the lower end. Sadly the low end is what you will notice too - that extra 1 HP isn't going to make a noticeable difference at freeway cruise, but the extra air off-idle makes a huge difference in the low end grunt pulling power. Same reason we put the huge 32/36 Weber's on in place of the 26/30 (or 28/32 on the EA82's) Hitachi: more air = more low end torque. High end isn't changed at all with a Weber - we do it for low end torque, and for reliability/tuneability. The added low-end makes turning large tires actually possible. The performance gain of a Weber or SPFI will be dramatically reduced with the small intake valve heads, and if you are putting heads on the engine, I wouldn't spend the time or money messing with small valve heads when there's tons and tons of large valve heads to be had cheap. GD

Brushes/rotor in the pump are shot. You can probably get by for a while by smacking the pump when it won't turn. GD

Did I stutter? GD

Have you ever ran a DGV Weber? Ever ran a Hitachi??? Compared to the orginal Hitachi, it has a LOT of benefits. Not the least of which is the availibility of inexpensive adaptor plates. While an SU (or pair) might be nice, not everyone has the ability to make up any old adaptor plate or sync up multiple carbs. Please - run Hitachi's if you like them/think they are better. But don't go around telling folks there's nothing worse than a DGV/DFV/5200..... because there is. GD

You like that? Check this out: http://www.drivetechnologies.com/ And watch what it can do: http://www.drivetechnologies.com/videos/truck.wmv Now if only anyone could actually afford a set . Maybe when the patent runs out. GD

Add to this that u-joints can accomidate at most 15 to 20 degrees of angle (and that's pushing it), and CV's can do upwards of 30 degrees (Porsche 930's can do 28, and the race versions 30 even). You would be losing articulation ability with the u-joints as the stock CV's are easily capable of 20 degrees already. GD

Here's a good start: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint Check out the section on angular speed. Basically without two u-joints running at equal and opposite angles, the changes in velocity will rip the joints apart in short order. This manifests itself as "vibration". Or (under larger differences in angle) as joint failure. And I quote from the page above: Obviously this in not possible in a front suspension - not and still allow the wheels to turn. U-joints are simply NOT applicable to IFS, and you won't find anyone useing them for this reason. GD

I seriously considered mentioning that I too was feeling lazy - but I was in fact too lazy even to mention it. GD

Nope - you CANNOT use u-joints on an IFS. It's really that simple. Try it out if you don't beleive the thousands and thousands of vehicles produced without a single one using u-joint IFS. Again - read up on CV and u-joint theory and you'll understand the fundamental differences. They CAN be used on rear independant. There's many examples of that - early Gen 1 Subaru 4WD being one, and early Z-car's being another. Not to mention Jag's, Corvette's, etc. GD

You cannot use u-joints on the front of a subaru. Read up on u-joint application and theory and you'll understand why. *hint*: it isn't called a "constant velocity" joint for no reason. GD

Having done all THREE (there's two types of EA81 cable mounts) multiple times, the EA82 is far easier on the pedal end. GD

83/84 Automatic trans ONLY 85+ all engines (including EA82's and up). GD

Not that I can think of. It replaces the inlet - the Hitachi one should have a large inlet, and a smaller return pipe to release pump pressure when the float is closed. You can do anything if you want it bad enough. I made the one on my EA82 work with some washers, and a bit of cutting and moving things around. GD

Don't have to adjust them every 15,000 and quieter valve operation. They are also capable of higher reving, and stronger valve springs due to the steel push rods. Solid lifters have aluminium push rods with steel caps. As for retrofitting - no, they cannot be installed to a solid lifter block without complete engine dissasembly (splitting the case halves). Even then it's a bad idea as they cannot be serviced (removed) due to the difference in the block castings. The push rods and the rocker assembly are also different. All hydro lifter engines, and 83/84 solid lifter engines (manual trans) also have 2mm larger intake valves resulting in a 1 HP increase in engine rating. GD

That's pretty typical I've found - I had one like that and it wouldn't idle smooth. I swapped out the carb body with another I had. With the jetting you have, it's almost a gaurantee they are F-50's anyway. But to remove them (you should for cleaning anyway) make a tiny "L" shaped hook with the end of a paper clip and catch the hook on the inside of the tube - it's perforated with many holes, so just grab one and pull it out. You may need to soak the carb body in carb cleaner overnight to free them. I've found that a good rule is that a decent running weber is going to cost you about $200 - $300. Either for one that's rebuilt, or a cheap one that needs it and you spend the remainder on parts, cleaner, adaptor plate, etc. And lets not forget your time - that's worth something. Last one I did cost me $190 total, and I consider that a good deal. Would have been more if I hadn't had another body to swap for the worn shaft. No - the power steering on the EA81 is different than the EA82. Ditch the vapor seperator, and just run a straight through filter. Cap the return line to the tank if that old weber doesn't have a screw-in fuel supply barb. If it does, then screw in the one from the Hitachi and attach the return line to it. Naw - it's really pretty easy actually. You'll get the hang of it. Just rebuild it carefullly or you'll have trouble making it run right. Huh - well it's really popular here. But I'm sure you can find something. Basically it's just liquid metal with a hardening agent. They claim you can fix cracked engine blocks with it, etc GD

Jets all look fine. That's an old school manual choke (all of them are stamped DGAV, regardless of choke type). Emulsion tubes are under the air bleeds - the ones that are 160/170. That's a really old Italian weber..... really old. I would make sure it doesn't have any play in the thottle shafts or choke plate shafts before using it. And it looks like it needs about 50 gallons of carb cleaner run over it plus a rebuild kit. Swap out to an electric choke or something too. It's JB weld, not JD. Do a google on it - it's a two part metal impregnated epoxy. GD