GeneralDisorder

If you want to do it right, then do away with the leading rod completely, and build a lower A arm instead of the weak single arm/leading rod system. The leading rods are already very easy to bend, and one of the problems with 6"+ lifts has been the tendancy for the lengthened leading rods (yes - it's not a new idea - it's a component of every t-case lift) to bend or break. There's been several people that have built custom control arms from tube to lengthen them, and change the leading rod system to accomidate more travel. If you want to do it, just use EA82 control arms - they are already angled forward. At any rate, from experiecne I can tell you that regardless of what you do you will still need a lift for any tires with decent tread patterns. Running without a lift, while possible, will just result in you beating the hell out of the frame rails and floor pan - you car will look like a crumpled soda can in short order. Not to mention the cutting that will be required on the fenders will leave you with a mess that will look like rusty hell about a week after you do the butchery. Articulation will be severely limited to almost all down-travel which tends to break more axles, and doesn't work well off-road. Flat running axles with nearly the same up and down travel are best. GD

Way I did it was to aquire a second u-joint and cut the 2" splined section from a junkyard steering column or non-power jack-shaft and use it to join the two u-joints together. No welding required, and it's been that way for several years. This also eliminated the rag joint, which makes for much more positive steering control off-road. I wouldn't run without power steering in my trail rig. It's dark so I can't take a pic just at the moment, but it should be pretty easy to visualize what I did. And if you *do* keep the rag joint - replace it with a VW urethane one. The stock rubber ones can (and I've seen it happen) tear apart. This of course happens at the worst possible time when you are in 2 foot of muck, and then have no steering control at all. GD

Have to run one down on ebay - the Momo adaptors are out of production. Grant GT makes one for the EA81, but I don't think they have one for an EA82. GD

Probably timing belt. GD

Are you 100% sure you didn't lose the accelerator pump check valve ball? It's a tiny little plastic guy about 1/8" in diameter. If you didn't get that in, or the got the pump spring in upside down, the accelerator pump will not function and you will get the slight hesitation when warm like that. As for the fast idle - that's all done with the linkage and the choke setting. It took me about 7 to 10 try's to get to a point where I could rebuild a Hitachi and have all the bits work as designed - especially the fast idle/choke mechanism. Weber, or SPFI swap is the prefered "fix" for all Hitachi related problems. GD

Just install the correct 23 spline axles. You may need to use a triangle file on the splines to clean them up but it should be alright. It should have been pretty obvious that it wasn't fitting tight enough when you assembled it. GD

I'm not sure what you are talking about - moving the rear suspension will do nothing at all for the front, and there's no need to lift anything in the rear for larger tires. A set of EA82 adjustable rear coil-overs and a 5" section of 2x4 angle iron will do the whole rear end lift for at least 28" tires...... Fitting larger tires on the front is going to require some form of lift - period. Block lifts are not expensive to build - you need 10 blocks for the front - metal supermarkets down near airport way will cut you the neccesary blocks for $5 each - 4" for the cross member, and 3" for the radius rod plates, then you just have to drill them and buy some bolts. The strut tower blocks can either be made yourself, or bought from a few of the various people building lifts for a reasonable amount. Steering shaft extension requires a $5 bit of tubing, and a welder. GD

At that price I would definately grab one as you may find you need it instead of the core when you get inside there. I've heard more cases of the valve failing than the core itself (with regard to leakage, not clogging). GD

Any Alt is going to put out only as much as the system loads the Alt. A system that draws 20 amps will draw the same 20 with a 50 amp alt or a 250 amp alt. The load on the engine is the same either way. The Alt makes no difference - it's the stuff you are running with the alt. So yes - if you turn on 100 amps of stuff (doesn't exist in stock form), and have an alt that can supply that much, then the load on the engine will be 100 amps - neccesarily more than the original 50 amp unit could put out. GD

Well - required wiggling of wires indicates a short - so start looking for a short or connector corrosion. Any evidence of windshield leakage? I've had water kill stuff under the dash before - killed a flasher module in my Brat..... Hope you didn't have to pay for the retards mistake in replacing your ECU. Those basically never fail. GD

There's only a single filter on the EA82 carbs. EA81's have a filter and a vapor seperator (which includes a filter, but it is neither required, nor it's primary purpose). GD

I'll be installing it for her. Need a GL/Loyale assembly - hopefully local. And can someone move this to the classifieds? GD

Some of the 5200's have idle cut solenoids - did you wire it if it has one? There's really no way to get an "internal" vac leak unless the carb top gasket is shot - but assuming it's rebuilt that's not an issue I'm sure. Backfireing through the carb wouldn't hurt it. GD

Mine is heavily reinforced with 1/4" bar that's over 1" wide running from one bushing to the other. I have broken some rear axles, but I pulled them apart from too much articulation or exploded them on hard surface turns. I haven't bent my diff hanger since though! The first one I landed on a downed tree I drove over that had fallen across the trail. Basically it irrepairably tweaked the hanger, and caused one axle to tear apart a bit later as it had pushed the diff to one side. They are extremely weak, and I recommend anyone that's lifted reinforce it - cheap insurance for sure. Really need to add a fuel tank plate down there too as the tank is pretty vulnerable being steel. Either that or just yank it and put in a cell.... that'll probably be my solution. GD3

You can't without special tools. Only way I know of is to mark them before you take them off :-\. It's a complex process as those don't just hold the bearings, but also set the ring/pinion side play. If you set it wrong the diff could eat itself it short order. GD

Um..... NO! EA71 pistons aren't going to change much at all..... I guess I would know since I'm about the only person around here that's actually measured the difference. The difference is about .25:1 compression increase - and that's being generous. Displacement isn't going to change appreciably - still be close to 1.8. Even stock, the EA81 is really 1.781L anyway. Probably be real close to 1750cc with the EA71 pistons. Frankly they aren't worth using IMO as they have thinner ring lands. EA82 SPFI pistons are what you want my friend - they have cut-outs for the valves , unlike the flat top EA71/81 pistons. With those, you wouldn't have to shave the heads at all, and you would be at 9.5:1. With shaved heads - closer to 9.75:1 or higher. GD

Should work fine, yeah. Only difference is going to be the ECU will expect a clutch switch from the loyale - you can use the Loyale pedal assembly, or you can just ignore it. GD

Push button single range came on many years - mostly older turbo's, and DL's, then standard in 90 on the Loyale. All GL 4WD's had the D/R except automatics and turbo's. GD

Of course I do - but it's cardboard, not plastic. Plastic wouldn't seal anything - doesn't conform when it's put under pressure. GD

It's an ignition fuse then. Just find the bad one, and replace with some other fuse that you don't need. GD

1. Find a bad fuse 2. Find a good fuse of similar amp rating 3. swap the good fuse over to the bad socket 4. try to start car. If it doesn't start, the good one your pulled may be required too, so try using a different "good" one. Beyond that, it's difficult to really help you cause I can't see the fuse panel. Just cause some fuse powers the radio doesn't mean it also doesn't power something else that's required for the engine to run. Does it even crank? If not you probably blew the fuseable link that supplies the starter solenoid - that circuit isn't fused at the panel anyway. If that's the case, you'll have to replace the link, or "jumper" it with a bit of wire. That would actually make sense because many "aftermarket" radio installations steal power from the ignition circuit under the dash - which is unfused. So if you grounded that bad boy - you roasted the link. GD

Um..... no it doesn't quite work that way. Find and replace ALL bad fuses and THEN try to start the car.... K? Beyond that, perhaps a good book on electrical theory..... GD

Just steal a fuse from some other non-essencial circuit. Or wrap the blown fuse in tin-foil if you are really, really stuck. Emergency ONLY. GD

Fuse or fuseable link - that's about the only thing it could be. GD

The plastic spacers are dealer only for the Hitachi - you're talking about the spacer for the adaptor plate right? Otherwise - the Weber stuff - check at a VW parts house...... but I've never used anything plastic on a Weber other than the Hitachi spacer to raise up the adaptor plate. GD