GeneralDisorder

If we are going to take it to the street - then I'll just point out that at least I can spell, capitalize sentences, and know where and how to use punctuation. Other than that, I don't have a need to say much really do I? I've already sucessfully done this swap, and many, many others. One of the benefits of age I suppose. GD

Maybe Ian can take more pics for you before he sells his hatch... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=10854&cat=500&ppuser=600 GD

LOL GD

Delta cam, valve job with stronger springs, new lifters, SPFI, 1600 pistons, chrome rings, .025" off the heads, etc And the other one I'm driving lately is an EA82 SPFI block with a Weber. It redlines at 6 anyway, and freely revs to 7500 due to the SPFI valve train. More correctly I should say I have TWO in the garage, and the third is still in my wagon. But the first two weren't blown by me. They came out of other people's rigs that I didn't swaps for. One has NO 3rd gear syncro, one has severe grinding on 2nd, and the one in my wagon has no reverse shift dog (you can put it in reverse, but the car won't move). I did blow the one from my wagon, but it was partly due to poor linkage from flat transmission mounts. I fabbed up EA82 mounts for it, but it was too late as the damage to the shift dog was already done. They can last 200k or more if you are careful with them and keep the linkage tight. But the 5 speed's still last longer, and the linkage is superior. GD

Well - being that you're so awesome, then you should be able to figure it out. I never asked anyone - I just made it happen. And there's very few that have ever converted an EA81 from 2 to 4. Me, Turbone, and a few others. People love to claim it's easy, but few of them have ever done it. And all the one's I've talked with agree that it's not worth the effort unless the body is something very, very special. GD

Sadly, that's all there is in SE portland - roads. Wasn't me - my EA81 wagon still has no reverse. And lifted wagons covered in mud don't blend well Sounds like some meth-heads - that's about what they could afford, and it's DEFINATELY where they live. I bet it's 2WD too. GD

Depends on how you lift it. I have 4" of suspension lift on my wagon, and the diff is still in the stock location. But if you used blocks, then yes you could put in a larger tank probably. But if you are doing that, then a 2WD tank would be better as it has no diff hump. Also, if you ARE going to all that trouble, it would be better to put in a fuel cell as the tanks are not well protected. I have a few dents in mine, and it's not lowered at all. Spacing it down like that..... it would be very vulnerable to impact. Also the location of the filler neck, and tube might require modification to lower the tank like that. Messy - too messy for my taste. GD

As I recall it's the height of the tank - being that the whole rear end assembly is farther forward the cargo area/rear seat shelf on the hatch extends into the tank area and makes it shallower. Such that a wagon tank is too tall to go in far enough. That's why they have a smaller capacity. GD

Due to testing differences - both in methodology, and in equipment, and other factors it is best to NEVER compare numbers to anyone else. The test is purely a pass/fail as to if it *has* compression, and how close the cylinders are. GD

I don't need pictures - I've handled them all as well. My point was that a Brat/wagon/sedan/hardtop tank won't fit in a hatch. I didn't comment on the other way around, but being that it's smaller it stands to reason that it would fit in there. GD

Number isn't important. You are looking for the cylinders to be within 5-10% of each other. Test with throttle wide open, all plugs removed, and fuel pump fuse removed or pump disconnected. Crank for 5 seconds per cylinder to avoid draining the battery too much. GD

Yes - please leave. That would be FABULOUS. GD

Engine, tranny and suspension transplant? Seems like an aweful lot of work to me..... I say that having done it before. And you realize that the Hatch tank is shorter right? A normal wagon/brat/etc tank won't fit. It's hard to find them here usually because hatch's are the second most rare after brat's. And half the ones you do find are 2WD tanks. GD

The 4 speed gearing, and the big tires are going to kill the mileage. Granted it should be a *bit* better than 15, but not a lot. My lifted wagon started as a 2WD 5 speed. With the Weber it got 33 mpg. Once lifted, with 215/75Rr15's, and the 82 4 speed (same engine, same carb, no changes at all), my mileage is 20 - 22 mpg. 35 to 40 is laughable - whoever told you that was on crack. The Justy was barely that high in 2WD form. The EPA rating for a stock EA81 (non-turbo) was 28 to 30 mpg. And mostly you'll see 28 or 29 on a stock 4WD in my experience. GD

Oh yeah - and there's the bit about the EA71 not haveing any flywheel that matches the 225mm clutch disc. So you'll be stuck with the 200mm 2WD clutch. Which if you are planning to lift it..... is going to suck. Been there GD

Actually it's a 3 groove, you just haven't seen the PS system to understand. The 3rd groove is between the alternator groove, and the AC groove. You probably just thought that was a vacant space. GD

That's turbo specific. The turbo uses the EA82 PS system. GD

4WD swaps on EA81's (EA71 in your case, but same body) aren't as easy as people think. #1 The tranny tunnel won't fit the 4WD tranny - you'll have to beat it, or use spacers like a lift kit. #2 Exhaust is different from the y back #3 The 4WD lever mount doesn't exist. Fabrication time. There's more, but it's been over 2 years since I did my wagon, so I can't remember right now. It was a pain in the butt, and I'll never do another one. Also - good luck finding a 4WD hatch fuel tank. GD

Cams, and MegaSquirt will get you what you need. MegaSquirt would also allow you to fit a larger throttle body for more low-end. As a side benefit, with MS, you could drop in an EJ22 (or a JDM DOHC EJ20) later on with minimal wiring effort. GD

That's a locking CENTER diff, which is completely different from the limited slip REAR diff. And you want to leave it unlocked for pavement. Still not as good as AWD (Legacy, etc) as it doesn't have the viscous coupling center diff - rather it's just open, or locked (for dirt, snow, etc). Better than 2WD, but you still lose all power to the ground if one wheel is up..... It's too bad Subaru didn't use Torsen diffs like some of the old Audi quatro's.... All GL-10's, and many turbo's etc. had that. It was also standard with digital dash cars IIRC. Usually they aren't too accurate unfortunately - especially on the turbo's as the older turbo's rarely get good mileage at this point - expect 20 mpg or less. It's common. If you drive like grandma, and tune/replace your injection sensors..... maybe 25. Keep your foot out of the turbo. The trip computers weren't able to check the fuel consumption - only the level of the tank, and based their calulations off that - pretty far from accurate usually 20 years later. Plus any modifications you make to the engine will invalidate it's pre-programed formulas. GD

We have two pulleys - the 1980 (maybe some 81's) pulley is a single groove, and all the rest were 3 groove pulleys. Both are just single peice pulleys. Power steering has nothing to do with the AC. Brackets or otherwise. It's entirely seperate. GD

Our EA81's never had crank driven fans. PS is on the opposite side, so has nothing to do with AC here. Our glove boxes are all the same size. Must be a weird LHD thing. Our pullies are all one-peice. Guess not huh? GD

You have the splines lined up 180 degrees out. You it only lines up one way - 180 degrees will look close, but it's about 1/2 spline off. You need to turn the cup 180 degrees and reinsert the pin. GD

One peice push rods are hydro. The aluminium rods with steel caps are solid. GD

Basically it's worth what someone will give for it. You can't really put a value to it - it's going to be worth more to someone restoring a Brat in Arizona, than someone in Alaska . Going by u-pull-it prices, I would say all the bits would probably run you about ~$75.... depending on the yard, and how well they know you. It would be helpful to the community here if you could scan or photo the instructions that you have. Those can benefit us all..... GD