GeneralDisorder

Hhhmmm - I doubt that the cap would cause that. I've driven my Brat (SPFI) without the cap, or with it cracked open and it was fine... Some newer cars this will cause issue, but the SPFI shouldn't give a crap - as long as the pump has fuel flow and the tank doesn't build vacuum due to a clogged breather line..... it really shouldn't matter if there's a cap at all. GD

That ground doesn't go into the wireing harness - it's connected to the tranmission itself. It's just a grounding strap from the body to the tranny housing. You pick up a multi-meter yet? Those switches may not work like the push-button one's did..... I would have to look at it though. GD

SPFI auto's have a park switch only (which happens to connect to the same pin on the ECU as the neutral switch for the manual's). The so called "neutral safety switch" is simply a lockout that prevents the starter from running except in park and neutral. It's not connected to the ECU in any way. The circuit has to be defeated when doing a manual conversion, but it's simply a matter of jumpering two wires in the shifter plug. Beleive me - I've been through the SPFI harness and ECU pinout more times than I care to remember at this point. I've retro-fitted it into two cars, and I have most of the wire colors memorized at this point. I'm sick and twisted I know.... GD

And for anyone listening - this is exactly WHY I advocate hooking up all sensors and switches when doing the SPFI conversion. You could adversely affect your mileage. GD

So what's wrong with the first thread you posted on this? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69740 GD

Sounds like a typo to me. It's not unheard of. All the SPFI info I've seen puts them at 90. Plus it makes no sense that it would have the same torque rating. Information is conflicting - the stuff here in the board shows 90 HP, 101 torque. The turbo's are the 137 torque.... but who really knows. GD

Nope. On the SPFI, no throttle = no fuel if you are coasting. Always, 100% of the time. That's one of their big wins over carbs for enhanced mileage. Carbs still pull fuel through the idle circuit even under closed throttle coasting. There were various systems employed to try to prevent it - the Anti-Afterburn-Valve (AAV), but it's not 100% effective, and it's complex. On the SPFI, it shuts off fuel flow if the engine is turning more than idle speed (which it considers to be about 1200 RPM in closed loop near as I can tell), and thus you will use zero fuel coasting down a hill in gear. If you go to neutral you will actually use MORE fuel as the ECU then has to turn on the injector to maintain idle speed. Ever had the engine do it's strange surging, bouncy idle thing? Idle bounces between like 1500 and 1000 RPM? That's the idle fuel cut in action. Something is amis with the IAC adjustment or the MAF, and the engine wants to idle higher than the fuel cut, so it bounces back and forth - idle increases, fuel cuts out, idle decreases, fuel cuts back on, idle increases....ad infinitum. ECU can't even tell what gear you are in - only that you aren't in park. Auto's don't have the neutral switch, just the park switch. Crank inhibitor is part of the auto shifter mechanism - not controlled by the ECU at all. GD

There's no flywheel on an auto - it's a torque converter with a steel mounting plate (called the flex plate) on the engine crank. You will have to use the complete flywheel/clutch from the manual engine. Use loctite blue on the flywheel mounting bolts as they are open to the crankcase and could leak oil of they vibrate loose. GD

There are 4 different (all correct) plug wire oreintations depending on how you align the distributor rotor. Manuals (for obvious reasons) only show you one of the possible 4. There are only 2 possible distributors for an EA81. Nippon-Denso, and Hitachi. Here's the detail on the difference: Intermittant spark is usually a result of worn distributor bushings. Check for side to side play in the shaft. GD

IF you can find one, it will indeed allow the mating. But (and this is a big one), you still can't run huge tires as the EA71 is limited to the 200mm clutch due to the flywheel being a different bolt pattern. It might be possible to redrill an EA81 flywheel to get the 225mm clutch, but it's not a bolt up. And for that much work, it's easier to just put the EA81 in and get the added power as well. GD

I've blown the Fel-Pro's. Dealer only on the intake's. GD

Perhaps, but much like Dewalt tools (owned by black and decker.... don't get me started), I wouldn't buy the stuff to find out. I refuse to support companies that make crappy products by purchasing their other products that "aren't as high on the crap roster". GD

Agreed - they really are great little units. Very easy to work with. The whole point is so you DONT have to take it to the tard mechanic down the street. Want it done right? Do it yourself. Especially true with carbs as there are few mechanics around that can work on them. 20 degrees indeed GD

Ground wire should connect to the transmission housing. Look for a bolt somewhere to lock it down to. Your resistor block is blown. Do a thread search for "fan resistor block". It's under the passenger dash near the blower motor housing. They often burn out - it's quite common. If the light does not come on, first make sure the bulb checks ok when you first turn on the ignition. If it does, then likely the transmission isn't engaging 4WD. This a push-button 5 speed? Probably a broken vacuum line to the 4WD solenoid, but also could be the wireing to the 4WD light switch on the tranny if the 4WD is working. Clock circuit board needs to be resoldered. Almost a universal failure. Solder joints get old and shrink away from the circuit from the heat of the power supply capacitors. Pop it out of the dash, remelt the solder, and re-install. Almost always a bad sending unit. It hangs down in front of the pump. About $35 - $40 from the dealer. Sounds like you are on the right track. The ground wire should definately be connected, and the other wire..... would have to see it to tell you for sure. GD

No - they all have both screws, but one is idle speed, and one is idle mixture. BOTH are for idle adjustment only. Once the throttle is more than about 5 degrees open the idle circuit loses it's vacuum signal and goes passive. The main circuit and high speed circuit take over and their "mixture" is 100% jet controlled. There are NO service adjustments for anything but idle speed, idle mixture, choke pull-off, and choke spring rate. So really, either they did nothing at all or they just have no idea what they are doing. I've installed about a dozen Weber's at this point - 4 of which on personal vehicles. My first was over 4 years ago, and was a brand new redline as well. I've done one other brand new one for a friend, and all the others were rebuilt by me. They all run exactly the same, and get the same mileage if you set them up right. There's no magic to it, but for a supposed "mechanic" to tell you he adjusted the mixture, and set your timing to 20 degrees speaks volumes to someone like myself that knows a thing or two about carbs and specifically Weber's. At this point I have more Weber experience than I do with the stock Hitachi's. GD

They just pull out. I've replaced many of them, and removed many, many clusters. 80 and up are just push-on. The difference in part numbers has to do with the length of the cable, as the early top mount starter cables had the drive in a different spot. This simply aint rocket science here - yank the cluster out and you'll be able to get to it a lot easier. GD

Probably corroded ground connections, coupled with old electrical system, and changes in temp. There's many things that can change your guage. Fuel condenses when it cools, so the same volume of gasoline can drop a bit in the tank when it's cold. Also the more accesories you have turned on, the less current will flow through the sending unit, and the lower your fuel guage will read. This effect is quite pronounced on some EA81's. My Brat does this. When you turn on the headlights, the fuel gauge drops a bit. Check the connection at the sending unit, and make sure your grounds are all looking good. GD

Your mechanic is full of $hit. The timing is correct at 8. 20 is only for fuel injected engines. Setting the base timing of a carb to 20 will result in massive pinging and possible piston damage if the distributor advance's are working. It's possible if you don't have any pinging that your vacuum advance is shot. I wouldn't go back to those idiots. How exactly did they "adjust" it's richness? The Weber doesn't have any adjustments for mixture other than idle. I think they are pulling your wallet. GD

It's not your rack - it's your inner tie rod joints. The whole tie rod unscrews from the rack. Pull back the boot and you'll see. try http://www.rockauto.com for the tie rods. They usually have good prices. GD

With the GL-10 having so many features.... you'll just screw it all up if you try. Believe me - it's a serious, serious endevour. Took me a month to figure out the EA81, and I only wanted *some* of the gauges cause it's my off-roader, and I use Autometer guages for better accuracy. But my situation arose because the EA81 dash's have a tendancy to fail that the EA82 dash's do not. Otherwise I would have never bothered. The EA82 digi's are cool, and very rarely have problems. If you want an analog dash it's a lot easier to just find an analog car. GD

If it's nice, sell it and find a Gen 2. GD

Low range gearset is not in the "transfer case" (t-case is just for sending power to the rear). It's in the main transmission, and low gear is applied before all other gears. Changing the gears means complete transmission dissasembly, and re-shimming of virtually everything down the line for the new gears to mesh properly. Sadly it's cost-prohibitive as having gears made is extremely expensive. Probably several thousand for the first set. GD

77?!?! Your funnay. But seriously the EA71 is about 60 HP. The EA81 is 73, or 74 for later large valve head models. People rarely lift gen 1's due to the complexity of the rear end assembly. The rear trailing arms use seperate torsion bars for each wheel, and they are not mounted at right-angles to the body. If you look you will see what I'm talking about. This makes it very difficult to design lift blocks for the rear end. The best way is to put in the torsion tube setup from a Gen 2 in the back. Even this requires some serious welding and fabrication of new mounts for the whole assembly - and they have to be STRONG to support the lift blocks and the torsion tube. Coupled with the lack of low range in the transmission, underpowered engine that cannot be coupled to any of the D/R trannies, and you have a bad recipe. In order to be effective with the large tires afforded by a lift you have to replace: Engine Transmission Entire rear suspension And that's not even counting the lift, tires and everything else. You have to REALLY, REALLY want it. The interior is small, there's no cargo space, power steering isn't even an option (absolute MUST have off-road IMO). Might as well start with a Gen 2 or 3. Tons less work, and won't cost you an arm and a leg. And this HAS been covered many times, just not in the last few months that I can remember. GD

Do a search for threads about it, but the short answer is no. It's just not worth the effort. GD

It's just a cotton gauze filter like a K&N. I use the K&N cleaning kit. You spray the element with a detergent solution, let it sit for 10 minutes and then rinse under a tap. DO NOT use pressurized water, and DO NOT blow it dry with compressed air. Once dry you oil it with aerosol filter oil. GD