GeneralDisorder

I'm not sure why, but mine didn't turn out that way. I had to cut the rail to make it fit, as well as move the HH back. I should get a pic I suppose, but it's still so close on the drivers side that I really should remove a bit more from it - I removed about 1/2" x 3" section, and it's still only maybe 1/8" or less away from the rail... Perhaps it's partially because I did the 5 speed at the same time, and the 5 speed is tilted back slightly to clear the tunnel. It's not a lot tho, so it can't account for all of the difference. I also had to slot the holes in the crossmember like the folks that do the EJ swap have done. The mounts were haveing none of it trying to shove them into the stock slots. I also pulled it a bit to the passenger side to try and gain a bit more room on the drivers side..... but really you shouldn't do that - it needs to sit centered or the axle's and tranny will be all crooked. That was my experience anyway. I beleive it's best to say that the fit is EXTREEMELY tight. To the point that slight variations in your overall install (engine mount rubber deterioration, tranny alignment, etc, etc) *may* require some cutting to be sure the engine won't smack the rail under acceleration. Passenger side is no problem for two reasons - 1. The cylinders are physically farther forward, and 2. The distributor makes the drivers side extend farther backward. There would be NO problem at all if the disty was on the passenger side cam like the EJ was designed. GD

It's really not bad. Takes about 6 hours the first time you do it (heater core was my first, and almost always is what prompts removal [or the control valve on the EA81's]). GD

Sadly the 80/81 with the 1600 single range isn't very desireable. Due to the nature of folks looking for EA81's, they are almost always looking for off-road capable toys. Being that it's got no D/R, and isn't capable of supporting one without changing both the engine and tranny..... its essencially a body to most of the would be buyers. The color is also ugly as hell But being that it runs nice and looks halfway decent, I would say you could probably command $200 to $400 to the right buyer. Probably not what you want to hear, but you'll get all kinds of repsponses from folks to the effect of: "yah, dat's nice, and it's way worth $1000..... wish I had the moneys for dat one! WOOT!".... .....yeah that's the basic theme. When it comes to money where the oral cavity resides - you'll find a lot smaller audience I'm afraid. GD

The original setup used two spring roll pins - one inside the other, and then a cotter pin inside both of those. The problem is that the roll pins flex and wear out the hole in the trans shift rod - which isn't easily replaceable. Most people drill it larger, cut slots in the shifter tube, and bolt it down as hard as they can. Sadly, even that has come loose for us eventually. There's no good fix IMO but to weld the sucker solid and replace the whole stinkin tranny with a 5 speed when it's shot. I abhor the 4 speed's - I've got THREE blown 4's in my garage. Once you go 5, you won't want anything else - trust me. And my 5 speed Brat looks 100% stock inside plus I can actually maintain 25 MPH at a decent RPM GD

Fortunately, the glass didn't become structural on the soobs till the EA82 series. So really an EA81 is just as strong with NO windsheild as without due to the way it was built. I would say that patching it and making sure the rust doesn't come back should be sufficient. Won't hurt the glass any as it's set apart from the frame by a big thick rubber gasket. Just don't let some shop "goo" it in place - it wasn't designed for that, and should be installed with it's proper gasket and sealant, not the hot shot goo they use on EA82's and newer. GD

The 4 speeds have a weak linkage - causes them to blow reverse gear (the 5's reverse is also weak, but the linkage is superior enough that it's rarely a problem as it's easier to get it fully engaged. Partial engagement due to sloppy linkage is the cause of reverse failure). And they suffer from 3rd gear syncro failure much past 100k miles. Add to this the lack of a decent mid range gear (3rd on the 5 speed), and a low range that's only 1.45:1 to the 5's 1.59:1 and the 5 is far, far better suited to any conceivable swap. GD

The thing bolted to the hood release is the fuel pump control unit. It shouldn't affect dash power - only power to the fuel pump. The ECU also shouldn't effect dash power - I removed the one in my 84 wagon when I put on a Weber and it doesn't effect anything..... at least not on the digi-dash car it didn't, and it didn't in my feedback EA82 either.... GD

I would be down for a set of the desert fox for my wagon.... probably basically the same as the set you would be making for a Brat as they are the same overall length. SWEET! And I have a wagon and Brat that he can measure off for those conversions! GD

Sorry - pay no attention to our resident moron..... Anyway. To answer - you will have to cut the frame rail on the drivers side to fit the engine - the back of the valve cover where the distributor is will need about 3/4" deep x 3" long removed from the frame rail. You also need a lower radiator hose from a 92 to 94 Loyale (it's the "s" shape you'll need), and the upper hose will be a 90 Loyale lower hose cut down to fit. Wireing is going to suck - you'll pretty much be on your own, but you'll want the entire front harness from a donor, and then build a piggyback MPFI harness from it and just supply it with power and splice into the required lines from the EA81 harness. MegaSquirt would be easier. Other than that, it will fit ok. You will also want to use the 5 speed from an EA82 as the EA81 4 speed isn't going to cut it. GD

It just includes the dowel pin - that's the only difference. If there were other differences it would have been noted in the diagram. It's enough to see that the part numbers are the same for pre-87, and post 90 to infer that information. Plus the fact that the diagram has different pulley's labeled for turbo and non - if such a difference existed in the sprocket it would be noted. Thus we can safely assume that it doesn't matter unless you need a dowel pin. GD

Or you can use some bright red grease and do a pattern test on the gear teeth. You are simply looking for the best ring & pinion alignment. Special guages are handy, but trial and error with some grease patterns gets you there too. GD

Shouldn't make any difference I wouldn't think in *performance*. But I would change it as the filter area is probably reduced, possibly leading to premature clogging. GD

The problem is there are lines attached to the *top* of the tank, and you have to hold it up so the lines don't rip, and get your arms in there with pliers to get stuff loose, etc. It's at least a 3 midget job.... same with the filler neck. :dead: Best way I've found is to flip the car on it's side GD

EA81 2WD axle + 25 spline Legacy DOJ = 25 spline EA81 compatible axle. GD

Being a 4WD, his is already using 185's. Pretty new one's IIRC too. Anyway, they are the same tires he had on his other body before the swap and were fine there.... GD

No - his is a wagon. Rust free left coast edition:) It's probably suspension related. Have to take a look at the front bushings and such. The body only has about 150k on it.... GD

I'm 100% sure that he could do that. I sent him a PM to check out this thread GD

If Mick can't, I'm sure that pooparu can - he's very knowledgable with respect to vinyl. He's doing the complete gen 2 brat set and said the final cost will be about $100. Very fair IMO. He's got a plotter and all that stuff for LARGE vinyl. He measured up my Brat with some prints from his plotter - the fit was great. Real nice guy too. I say we send him the stuff and have him digitize it for the benefit of everyone..... GD

Allow me to clarify that for anyone that can't read parts references. That shows exactly 2 part numbers FOR ALL EA82's. There's a seperate part number for the outer sprocket with the locator pin included, but it's still the same sprocket. If you read the diagrams carefully there are all kinds of clues that tell you the sprockets are universal (except with respect to inner/outer) for carb/spfi/turbo. Sorry BDG - you're just WRONG. GD

Worst. Job. Ever. Very dirty - get some good sealed safety goggles as you will be getting a lot of dirt in your face. Pretty straightforward - you need about 17 arms to hold the tank up while you disconnected everything from it - remove the bolts and it drops out. Hardest part is the filler neck tube. Be careful not to break it. GD

And that's not what i said at all. Lovely. :-\ GD

2WD 5 speed swap is FAR easier due to the wireing issues with the 4EAT. Plus the 4EAT probably uses 25 spline "turbo" axles so you would end up swapping those too...... manual is way easier - no wireing, no axle problems, no tranny cooling lines, etc, etc. Should just bolt right in - you'll need the manual cross-member and linkages plus the flywheel/clutch setup. GD

It's probably the AC idle-up not working. It's is carbed? There's an idle-up solenoid that flicks the throttle up a degree or so to increase idle speed. When the defrost is on, the AC runs to dry the air, and to cycle the AC compressor oil through the system. When you hit the AC button, it's probably too cold out right now for the AC to kick on (it's about 25 degrees here). But it WILL run in defrost - that's normal. If it's SPFI, then the AC idle up is a function of the ECU - there's a signal line that turns it on, and increases idle speed. GD

It's perfectly fine for you to like them. I find them lacking in performance personally. And I've run both for many miles and find better econemy with the SPFI across the board as do most members here. 26 to 28 is typical with the carbs (both Hitachi and Weber) on a 4WD. SPFI commonly runs 30 to 32 on the same vehicle. I've seen close to 34 on 2WD's with Weber's, and more is possible with SPFI. I would question your calculations if you are seeing over 40 on an EA82 of any sort. That's very difficult to acheive in normal conditions, and as far as I know there hasn't been anyone claiming figures that high - not even Subaru claimed that, and their EPA data was pretty generous to begin with. It's fine to not want to learn about them, but it disqualifies you as a subjective judge of their respective qualities. You can say that you "LOVE" the carbs, but having no experience with SPFI means you might actually like them better, and just not know it yet. It's like saying "why should I learn about matches when flint and striker work great for me?". You can't be a subjective judge without knowing something about both systems, and on the whole SPFI is best for most folks as it doesn't require knowledge of the choke, pumping the gas before starting, warm up, etc, etc, and has more "expected" driveability. You start it, and you drive it - simple. I currently run a Weber on my daily and I like it as well, but everytime I get in my SPFI vehicle I think "wow - I really should do this to the other car too..". It's a feeling that's hard to describe - it's just "nicer", and it's because of a whole range of behaviours... start up in all weather conditions, doesn't "buck" as hard when you release the gas pedal, smoother acceleration charactaristics, better low end torque.... and the list goes on and on. GD

Fan should cut on about 210 degrees IIRC. The fan switch in the radiator is probably bad. It's common. GD