GeneralDisorder

Rear axles, unlike front axles, are 100% rebuildable with no special tools. There's many companies that will sell you the joint components. The shafts themselves never wear out, only the joints. So you just buy new joint sets and build your own. Or have cvaxles.com make you some if you are really, really lazy. I'm sure MWE would make them too. I use the inner rear joints from EA82's as they are deeper than stock and allow more suspension flex. Rockford CV makes the joint components and boots - I've heard they are a good source for that sort of thing. Check out my write up on the EA81 rear axles: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/axle_rebuilding.html I believe what you read is that another member ordered some GCK rear's through autozone, and due to an error in Autozone's computer system received front's instead. The error was not that GCK "no longer" makes them. The error was that GCK NEVER made them, and someone doing the cataloging assumed that fronts and rears are the same. The error is 100% autozone's, and had nothing to do with GCK as they don't make rear's, and never have. GD

Lower seats - such as the XT/XT6 seats work well. I have Isuzu Impulse seats in my Brat, and it's almost too low at times. I'm 6' 2", and a 6' 5" man would feel right at home in them. GD

Not in WA. I have 20 year old radiators that are fine. That said, if it's not a 2 row, it should be - especially for your uses. GD

O2's bounce a lot - especially old ones. That's just how they report. The ECU averages the readings over a short time period, and I would think your meter would be doing something similar. Newer O2's bounce faster, and start to slow down as they age. GD

GD's language (I know the guy pretty well...) is english. From what I can tell, your's appears to be gibberish (much like chinese, I know it when I see it, but still can't understand it). And as far as I know you are the only one here fluent in early 21st century stupid, so who's going to translate eh? GD

This thread is over three years old.... GD

This is all about timing and idle speed/mixture. If you have it set properly it will not do that. The Weber adaptor plates don't cover the hole all that well, but then they really aren't meant to as the Weber doesn't need to have it's base heated. Block the coolant flow to the base of the carb. Best way I've found is to poke a small bit of window screen into the hole, and fill it with JB weld up to almost the top and let it cure. That's all about the choke, and the idle speed/mixture again. It also could be a vacuum leak from the carb base. When the carb is cold, the fast idle cam is engaged, and if there are any slight vac leaks under the carb it won't have enough vacuum to pull any fuel into the main circuit, and since the fast idle cam is engaged, it can't run on the idle circuit - so it dies out. You can move/bend the thottle cable mount, or you can get one of the mounts that bolts to the back two bolts of the Weber. Some kits come with them, and some do not. You can't adjust the mixture settings of the carb without changing the jets. This requires removing the top of the carb to access them, and you would need to get a "jet kit" that contains many different sizes of jets. The only adjustment on the carb for mixture is the idle mixture. Everything else is jetted. The stock jetting, and what most have found works best is 140/140 mains, 170/160 air bleeds, F50 emulsion tubes, and 50 or 60 idle jets. For a stock engine this is about perfect. GD

No - not in the US anyway. That ad is AUS. GD

Well - for one we didn't have Brats in 90, and yes - all that data is for the US market. GD

The problem with ALL of the options listed thus far is they sit WAY too high. The whole reason many of us want to yank the old seats is they sit too high to begin with - add a Legacy seat into the mix, and watch me smack my head on everything. The reason I went with the Impulse seat is that it's VERY thin. As in 2" or more lower than the stock EA81 seats. The whole bottom of the seat is like 4" thick at most. They are quite comfortable, and I'm probably going to have them redone at some point. Take a look at the legacy seat picture above, and notice the location of the door speaker in relation to the seat bottom, then take a look at mine: For me they work quite well. On the other hand my GF, and my ex GF (both 5' 3" or so) are unable to drive it without sitting on a phonebook or pillow to reach the pedals. The seat sits so far back and so low, that even all the way forward, they can barely drive it with a lot of effort. The seats are using the stock impulse locations for the rails. I love them, but short people beware. The Saturn ones seem like an interesting option - I'll have to look at those and see if there's a way to make them lower. GD

MPFI non-turbo XT's had them. That's the only source actually. What are you planning to put it on? You realize that they only fit the dual intake port heads of the EA82T/MPFI right? GD

It DOES monitor pad wear. The level of your fluid drops as the pads wear. At some point (assuming no leaks) the light will come on. That indicates to most people that their brakes need serviceing, and to a shop, it's also a clue that the pads are getting thin as the caliper piston bore contains more of the fluid from the reservior. GD

Those rusty things are no more "redrillable" than anything else, and aren't "rare" by a long shot. That's just plain stupid. You can buy rims exactly like that brand new at any tire shop. Stock toyota rims are the same way - with your precious "redrillable" bumps. The rims I drill(ed) have no raised sections for the existing holes. They are completly flat all the way around including where the existing holes are located. Furthermore, there is nothing "illegal" or "amazing" about drilling a set of rims. People have been doing this on here since before I was a member - years at any rate. And besides all of this, I no longer run drilled rims - I converted my rotors (both front and rear are discs) to a full 6 lug mount. I use stock chevy/toyoya 6 x 5.5 now with no holes drilled at all. Therefore it's 100% legal. It's a rusty steel rim - it's not "rare" - it's not "special", and niether is drilling it for 4 lug. If you did a search once in a while you would know that. GD

Actually, it can be weld free, yes. Three of the 4 bolt holes line up nearly perfectly. although the rails are about 1" too narrow when bolted to the Impulse seat. You can counter that in a couple ways. I made some small "adaptors" to move the inner rail out about 1" to line up to the floor. Initially I didn't weld anything, but I later welded the inner rear bracket to the seat as it was easier than using a self-tapping screw for me at the time. It can be done either way tho. I can't recall the exact year, but I think it was an 88. They are not easy to find tho. GD

Why is this in "off-road"?? Anyway - Daeron did a whole post about this, and put one on his GL-10 not long ago: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64404 GD

But since he's in Canada, import tax might bite us US guys. GD

Allow me to lay down the field here: 80 through 82: Small intake valve, solid lifter, 73 HP 83 and 84 Manual: Large intake valve, solid lifter, 74 HP 83 and 84 Automatic: Large intake valve, hydro lifter, 74 HP 85+: Large intake valve, hydro lifter, 74 HP The only difference is that solid lifters require adjustment every 15,000 miles, and generally make more of a racket - especially when cold or out of adjustment. There is NO difference in power, but there is a slight increase in torque with the hydro engines - due to a change in the cam, not the lifter itself. NO - you cannot covert from one to the other, or use a hydro cam with solid lifters, etc. To remove the lifters from a solid lifter engine requires splitting the block. Also the cam, push-rods, and rocker assembly are all different. Putting the hydro lifters into a solid block is asking for trouble as you can NEVER service them without a complete tear down of the engine. GD

Your best fit is going to be another EA81 seat, or the Isuzu Impulse seats fit rather well. I have a set in my Brat. But any other subaru seat is a *************** to fit into an EA81. I had to do quite a bit of cutting and welding on the Gen 1 Legacy seats in my 84, and they still sit too high. Those of you who have put seats into EA82's.... yeah that's quite a bit easier since the EA82 has more room to work with, and uses the more modern mounting style like the legacy and impreza - where the inner rear mount is on the transmission hump. The EA81 is flat to the floor, and the plastic stuff gets in the way on the EA81's a lot more as there is very little extra room. GD

In real life, the subaru's center of gravity is too low for that to happen. A lifted subaru with no sway bar and no extra offset on the wheels *might* get enough momentum at very high speed to get up on two wheels. But generally this applies to trucks and SUV's. GD

Right - sorry. 83 and 84 AUTO's had hydro. Including the turbo (only came as auto). GD

The turbo uses a higher pressure fuel pump as well. Best thing to do is just swap the turbo dash harness into the car. The rear harness/dash harness connection will be a lot easier to figure out. GD

Pretty much - but the steering rack has to be swapped at the same time (it's married to the cross-member in a non-trivial way), and I've never done one, but I suspect you may have to swap the steering column or parts of it. You realize that you have to swap the ENTIRE drivetrain right? Including the transmission, and I'm pretty sure the rear diff as well (could be wrong on that tho). Some of the linkage bits, and such. Probably the exhaust, transmission cross-member etc, etc. It's not a trivial swap. It's a major gutting of both cars, and reinstalling everything. You are also going to be dealing with electrical stuff as the 81 will have an electronic distributor, and the 79 will probably be points/condensor. Not sure how well it will all mesh, but there are always headaches with this sort of thing. GD

The EA82 is different, and in fact easier than the EA81. The pedal end of the cable is held by bolts instead of the silly spring clip. The clutch fork end is the same for both. In all cases, takeing the pedal off the pivot assembly is the way it's done most effectively. And go to the dealer and get a new cable pivot pin and retainer. GD

81 is the same, but they have no advantages over the 5 speed - indeed they suffer from all the same problems of the 4, but have better 3rd and 4th gearing for lifted rigs. GD

85 and up are hydro. 83 and 84 turbo are hydro also. GD