GeneralDisorder

Depends on the gasket type. Follow the gasket makers recomendations for surface finish. GD

Actually that cylinder (the shift rod) is pinned to the shifter assembly. I highly doubt it's actually broken. Take another look. There's a roll-pin - it's probably come out or something. Or are you talking about the pivot "ear" that the gear shift slips down into? Although I can't see how that could break..... A picture would be good. GD

It's broken where? If it's just the linkage then no you don't have to take the tranny apart. GD

Since you have a lift, I'm with Shawn on this - pull the tranny. You can do all those seals with the engine in place. For us poor folks without lifts the engine is the way to go, but the tranny takes less time if you have a lift. GD

Right on - what's happeneing with the rest of the car? Plasma cutter..... mmmmmmm - will you be my friend? GD

Remove the whole intake, and clean the surfaces up with a wire wheel in your drill. Chase the threads for the bolts, and clean them up good - anti-seize, etc. And only toque them to 12 ft/lbs. Just drain some coolant out from the drain cock on the radiator till the level drops to where you can remove the intake. GD

I just made a couple brackets out of some scrap I had around and welded them to the floor. Easy. You could bolt them too - you just have to remove the front seats to get to the floor pan where you'll need to drill. The carrier mount isn't load bearing - it just has to hold the weight of the shaft. Personally I like the two peice as it doesn't hang so low. Heck of a lot cheaper too. GD

Yep - all EA82 (and ER27) 5 speed trannys are the same size.... Jerry actually has an RX FT4WD tranny in his hatch. Pushbutton, FT4WD, D/R - doesn't matter. You are right on the axles, but there's ways around that. The DOJ cup is the part that needs to be swapped, and you you can purchase joint kits that include the cup and joint that will fit on the 25 spline tranny, and the EA81 axle shaft. I beleive the joint that fits is for an early 90's legacy turbo..... but I can't recall if that fits the 2WD or 4WD EA81 shafts. His kit is $100 - you send him your EA81 cross-member, the EA81 4WD shift rod, and the 5 speed linkage. He makes you a custom cross-member, and linkage to bolt it up. And I mean BOLT it up. There's no modifications required - he prepares it all for you. Excelent craftsmanship I might add. GD

Yeah - replace your intake gaskets. GD

Rear diff and t-case both turn regardless of being in 4WD or not. So if they are shot, you would already know. GD

You replace the engine cross-member. 4 bolts. GD

That's what jerry's cross-member addresses. My Brat is stock height and it fits great - no pounding required at all. As for the 3.7 tranny.... all the EA82 5 speed's are the same size regardless of type. GD

No - the only seats that "bolt in" to the EA81 are other EA81 seats. With a welder you can accomplish anything, but they aren't really even close to "bolt in". I've got Isuzu impulse seats in my Brat, and Legacy seats in my wagon, but it takes some modifications (a LOT of them in the case of the Leganus seats). GD

You can ignore the ECU entirely if you install a Weber. You will leave it in place as it controls the fuel pump. Just pull the bulb out of the dash surround and you will never have to worry about the ECS light. Probably take you a good day to install it the first time. Not difficult really. You will have to pound a good sized dent in the power steering reservior, but it will not effect the operation of it. Another option is the SPFI - a bit more involved, but fuel injection rocks! http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

Go with the 5 speed D/R. You'll thank me later. Jerry's kit is well worth the cost, and the 5 speed will better handle the power, and has a much smoother linkage setup. It will look 100% stock inside, and the 5's are way more common than the 4's these days anyway. GD

Heh - I wasn't the only one bothered by that I see Damn math classes anyway..... GD

Yeah - it's all good. I'm always relaxed. Usually smoking my pipe while I browse here (no - it's just tobacco ). I select my language such that I *appear* agitated perhaps, but it's not by design. That's just me. I've always been one to debate - I actually find it enjoyable. GD

There is no control valve on EA82's. Your core is probably partially clogged. Sadly there's really no good way to fix them as the inlet and outlet pipe of the core are on the same side and close together. Forcing high pressure water into the core will just shove stuff further into it. Replacement is the best option - cores aren't expesive, and installation takes about 6 hours total. Thermostat's almost always fail closed and cause too much heat. If your guage reads about 1/3 up it's plenty hot if your core is working properly. GD

It is indeed - an excelent overview of general science principles. Sadly, he won't understand any of it - at least not it's implications. Try teaching calculus to a 4 year old sometime.... or explain physics in a mental ward.... you get a blank stare, follow by them going right back to playing with barbies or drooling. We've tried ignoring.... that's the problem with this society - everyone wants instant gratification, and no one will stand up and take ownership of our problems or even their own. Ignoreing terrorists was a grand idea, as was ignoring our last presidential ellections. As a society we are failing to OWN our problems. Everyone is fat, no one votes, and just look at our media! At some point you have had enough, and you stand up and SAY something. Perhaps I reach that point before most, but I'm not appoligizing for trying to make this place clean and tidy. I try to help people here, and that includes wading in to threads that are dirty and picking out the scum. Much like Penn & Teller, and Houdini before them, I feel it is the duty of everyone to prevent "humbug". GD

Exactly - that's why cryo treating is used to make steel harder, and more wear resistant. If it changed shape then cryo-treating wheel bearings would result in a deformed bearing - when in REALITY it results in bearings that can last 200 to 400 percent longer. A simple cold spell outdoors isn't going to change the structure - it may shrink things a bit, but as the entire assembly is exposed to the same temps it will all shrink the same *extremely small* amount. Shrinkage is NOT warpage however. Bits of your car are not going to warp even in antartica - although at 100 below, your oil and coolant won't play nice. GD

PM CIS_Subaru - he did it, and can tell you what you need to know. He also ripped it off eventually for reasons I can't at the moment recall. He's with the new gen forum mostly now it appears. He talked about using subaru axle nuts JB welded to the heads - the bosch injector holders will thread right into them apparently. Go for it - then when you are sick of it, I'll help you put the SPFI on instead. The SPFI is quite rugged actually. There's really not much to go wrong with it. As injection systems go, it's actually simpler in concept than the CIS. The CIS has 4 injectors, and insufficient information to run them (no valve information). The SPFI has one injector, and an excelent, yet minimal amount of sensors with which to calculate the required fuel (and ignition). And of the sensors it does have, it can run well enough to get you home (at freeway speeds) with only the TPS, MAF and CAS. The CTS, 02, IAC, and solenoids (if you haven't already taken them off) can be removed - the ECU will compensate enough to allow the engine to run. The mileage will suck, but you will get home. Best of all, if something does go wrong, it will tell you about it. Try hunting down problems on a mechanical injection system that has no faculty for reporting trouble codes. Just the fact that it's got 4 injectors, and is STILL less effecient than the SPFI with a single injector rules it out as a viable option in my mind. Show me one single CIS equipped vehicle that hasn't had a single injection problem in 300,000 miles (for that matter show me any 80's VW product that MADE it that far!).... I can show you dozens of SPFI systems that got that far and more without changing anything related to the injection. The 02 will be shot as they only last around 100k, but it will still run fine. The setup on my Brat had 248k when I swapped it, and none of the componets were bad besides the solenoids (which are extraneous, and only 1 was bad of the 2). It is SOOOO nice to walk out there and start it - it just runs. It's pretty weird really. GD

I try - really I do. But he keeps "bumping" his posts till someone fires the conversation. And as Jeff pointed out - it's mis-information (not just that, in many cases it's far into the realm of nonsense) that's going to pop up in people's searches for years to come. In the intrest of keeping the thread honest I try to chime in and flatten the rough spots. I may be a bit abrasive with how I do it, but it sometimes it takes a steam-roller to flatten them all. GD

I would like to point out to the powers-that-be (you guys listening out there? :-p), that this course of action does not solve the underlying problem here. It will only return, as it has been doing for the past year. GD

Well - I know I have, and you have. But maybe it takes a crowd. With enough people..... GD

Do you have a multi-meter? Might help to check the temp sensor resistance values and see if if changes at strange times. Also need one to check out the throttle posistion sensor. About $3.99 at harbor freight. GD