GeneralDisorder

You need a D/R from an older Loyale (GL here) - 85 to 89 models. The Legacy transmission will not bolt up to your engine, and it has a very weak low range - 1.2:1 vs. the GL's 1.59:1 GD

That's for port injectors, and generally doesn't apply to TBI injectors. The idea is the same, but TBI injectors flow a LOT more already. They *could* increase the flow but it's not generally done. GD

My vote is for a partially frozen or badly worn u-joint. Brakeing turns the rear diff into an artificial LSD, and will make a bad u-joint vibrate more, and you will still feel it while not brakeing as well. He lives in rust territory, it's 20 years old, and the EA82 U's are not greaseable. I've had the serviceable u-joints of the EA81's freeze up even here on the left coast. At least with the EA81 they are easily replaceable. If they lose one degree of freedom they will still turn but will bind slightly causing the vibration. The humming sound I would look at the front wheel bearings. They may not have any play, but often the outer bearing will rust and start to make that humming vibration noise. I've replaced quite a disturbing number of them. GD

New O2 sensor, clean your MAF and air filter, check resistance of your CTS to make sure it's within spec for hot and cold running. Make sure there are NO exhaust leaks forward of the O2 sensor as this will intoduce fresh oxygen and make the ECU enrich the mixture when it should not. Make sure your oil cap and dipstick seal tight - these are common vacuum leaks. When you have done all that, run a D-Check procedure and check for codes from the ECU. Shop is talking out their anus - the injectors cannot be "rebuilt", and I've never seen or heard of one failing. The one I'm using on my Brat came from a wrecked loyale with 248k on it. Runs like a champ. Nod your head, smile, and walk slowly away from those guys :-\ GD

You use the EJ engine mounts - they bolt right up. You need a 1/2" thick adaptor plate for the transmission - you can make your own or several members make them for around $100-$200. The EJ22G exhaust should bolt up to the EA82 mid-pipe. You need the ECU and wireing harness from the donor car, and you just strip the engine portion, give it power, and mount the ECU under the dash. Radiator hoses are interesting, but ask others here how they have done it. It's a well-documented swap, with plenty of people around here having done it. GD

just curious, but how do you plan to register this in CA? GD

Rubber mallet. About $3 at harbor freight. GD

The plug is the same as a female 2 prong plug on any of 3 dozen connectors all over the place in your wireing. Or just use some female spade connectors availible at the parts store. As for the switch, the dealer is your friend there. Or you can probably take the switch apart and clean up the contacts to make it work. Or get a couple toggle switches and get creative. GD

Yeah - you could do that. I thought of it years ago, and just recently a member worked up a table of sizes and rear diff ratio's. But it wouldn't buy you much of anything unless you off-road in reverse. Help the departure angle a bit maybe but that's about it. Clearance in the rear is already more than in the front. GD

I tried to tell him that . Scared of the wireing for the SPFI swap I guess. The CIS E is simpler, but not as effecient as the SPFI, and to install it you will still be using a lot of SPFI parts. It's also a lot harder to install, as it requires all the same changes to the fuel system as the SPFI, and still requires the 02 sensor. It's been done to an EA82 MPFI engine.... look up CIS_Subaru - he's the user on here that's done it. He used to have a write up on it, but I can't find it now. GD

Not so much here on the left coast. Our stuff is in pretty clean condition. Everything works good on my 86 even. GD

Shouldn't 86 be on the dash? It is on my 86 sedan anyway. I thought 87 was the first year for the stalk mounted wiper control... GD

I bet they grabbed one from a lower model Loyale, and didn't notice. Should be pretty easy to swap once you get the wheel off. GD

You may not be cruising at 6k, but when you merge on the freeway with 27" tires you WILL rev to 6k before you shift or you'll be crushed by a semi. 6k won't hurt it - the SPFI block's have a 6.5k redline, and all mine will easily rev past 7. GD

100 - 200 miles seems to do the job. Just use some cheap ATF. Then drain and fill with a quality synthetic - I prefer the Redline myself. It's not so sticky in the cold. But at $9.75 a qaurt it better be good stuff. GD

It's almost never the sending units - break out your ohmeter and check it. It's usually the wires. I couldn't even find where the wires had gone bad on my sedan (probably mice action), so I just ran new ones to the dash harness. GD

They all have different ECU's, but if you jumper the right pins you can fool it into doing what you want. The auto legacy harness is going to be more involved as the 4EAT is electronically controlled with it's own ECU in addition to the engine ECU. A manual will not have any of this stuff, and will be simpler to strip the harness for piggy-back into the loyale. GD

Halfshafts - sway bar link, and lower control arm bolt is all you need to disconnect. Driveshaft drops out once you lower the center carrier bearing. GD

I've done that too - but I didn't sugest it for fear of someone being injured or killed. They can be very strong if used properly in the structural fashion they were designed for. Harbor freight - about $10 - $20. GD

No wonder the yards around here are so full.... You'll find one - Legacy's are getting real cheap lately. GD

I have seen it (occasionally) addressed..... I'll tell you what NOBODY touches on - the o-ring for the dip-stick. If you have an air leak into the crank-case the FI computer will judge the mixture incorrectly (it creates a vacuum leak). The engine needs to be TIGHT, and the oil cap, and to a lesser (but by no means insignificant) extent the dip-stick o-ring are the two weakest links in sealing it. GD

Put all 4 corners on jack stands and unbolt it. Ideally get it high enough that you can place some layers of carpet or foam under the tranny and just let it drop out on the soft surface. Pull the pitching stopper - that will allow the tranny and engine to pitch backward and slide out. Basically you will get very, very dirty and bruised up, but it can be done. Just get it HIGH - as high as you can. I have used concrete pavers to raise the jack stands for more height. Don't use cinder block as it can disitigrate easily. GD

There's a rubber pad that pushes the switch only when the brakes are not being pressed. This way even a very slight brake pressure will turn them on. If it were the other way the switch mechanism needed to counteract varying brake pressure would be overly complex. The switch probably grounds when it's "plunger" is out. Test it to see. Could also be something with the wireing. The brake lights run off the same circuit as the choke, so if the choke power wire grounds out it will blow the fuse. You have checked the fuses I take it? GD

Did you have the flywheel turned? Could be they didn't turn it to the correct specs? Disc thickness shouldn't make a lot of difference - as long as it's around 1/4" thick it should be fine. I would be looking at the flywheel depth, the pressure plate, and the fork. GD

You will spend far, far more money and time trying to make power from the EA82T. 200 is an 74% increase in power output, and without literally thousands of dollars it's not feasible or reliable. Very few aftermarket parts are availible, and almost none of them are "performance" - the few that are just happen to fit but were made for some other application generally. If you are looking for performance you are barking up the wrong tree. Get a legacy if you want to play with expensive performance parts. The simple EJ22 is 20 more HP without any turbo at all. The EJ22G (early 90's legacy turbo) is 165 HP stock, with a block that's good for 500+ HP and 20+ psi of boost. It's just plain illogical to mess with the EA82T - it was never designed to support the kind of power you are looking for. It's basically early 60's block (larger displacement version of the EA52), with modified valve train for OHC's. The heads are not built to withstand large amounts of forced induction or heat, and there are no options for replacements. GD