GeneralDisorder

They are supposed to seal down tight. If it does not, or you have to "back it off" then you need a new rubber gasket inside the cap or the tabs need adjusting. GD

It's on the pedal assembly. GD

Any 87+ GL should have the int. function. Perhaps it was replaced by a PO with a DL stalk. (oh, and so do 86 and older GL's too, but it's on the dash, not the stalk. even my GL Brat has int.) GD

I have no idea what that thing is called. One from an EA82 5 speed should work tho. I've always had good ones from the yards. GD

Yeah - there's a rubber peice with another metal plate attached to it, and it bolts to a threaded stud sticking out under the tunnnel. If you don't have one, you will have to drill a hole and put one in. The EA82 2WD (and some parts of the 4WD) 5 speed linkage is the same. GD

Not that will bolt to your engine. The AWD legacy transmissions are 4.11. Just put a dual range transmission in from a late 80's GL. It will bolt straight up, and will give you another 1.59:1 reduction in low range. GD

Thet's not true - the heads often warp, but the block does not. The surfaces may be fine, but the heads have to be milled flat to seal properly. I've also taken plenty apart with badly pitted head surfaces, but no evidence of damage to the block. GD

3.9 for manual, 3.7 for auto. Can't change the gear ratio without replacing the transmission. GD

All EA81T's came stock with oil coolers here. But EA81T's are rare, so it's still very hard to find them. GD

Yeah - there's one relay for each side under the dash. Look up behind the fuse box. I've seen that before and it's usually the relays. GD

I think they may have all been MPFI or carb. I wonder where the closest to AUS that got the SPFI was?? GD

They won't, but try them if you like replacing head gaskets a lot. The Fel-Pro's are only $16 each from autozone. GD

Find an EJ to put in it. If you are looking at the 10+ psi department, sadly the EA82T heads can't take it. The heads use bolts instead of studs (and a weird size too) so can't be torqued past 60 ft/lbs or so. Couple that with the lack of MLM head gaskets.... There's only about 3/16" of metal between the coolant jacket and the exhuast port so extremely careful mixture control under all conditions is vital to not cracking the heads - EGT sensors, and lots of them. The heads just can't take the heat, and higher boost = more heat. It's really just not worth the time when an EJ is easy to transplant and gives higher displacement and better design all around. GD

There's always the SPFI swap - as good as a weber anyway: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

It's the radius rod, and you can't change it's length without also changing the control arm - I guess you could use EA82 control arms as they would move it forward about that much, but they are also longer. Personally if you are going to all the trouble I would just fabricate a complete "A" arm and drop the silly radius rod altogether. GD

+1 for the Fel-Pro's - they rock. GD

Just drop by a tire shop - they can hook you up with some single peice lug nuts that will work. GD

Your engine is MPFI Turbo, not SPFI. You are going to look for an 87 to 90 Turbo. Should bolt right in to those. GD

Yeah - it won't change the torque directly (it will change the torque curve), but it changes the engines ability to apply that torque to the drivetrain under some circumstances - such as acceleration up a hill. It also changes effective gearing when you add in the clutch action - slipping the clutch to multiply your gearing will be more difficult with a lighter flywheel as it will be easier for the drivetrain to change the engine speed. Crawling slowly over obsticles will be much more difficult as the engine will have to be kept at a higher RPM - clutch wear will accelerate, and the clutch will fade from heating as the RPM is increased to offset the loss of inertia. The net result of which is the "feel" of lost torque. It can be useful to improve shifting speed on race engines to lighten the flywheel - it improves the engine's "response" but does not by itself assist in making power - in fact if not coupled with other changes to the engine to improve power it will generally be a detriment to overall vehicle performance. It's a very specific enhancement done for specific race uses. I personally think it's entirely unappropriate for the EA81. Turbo engines and "street" engines such as the ER27 are another story. GD

The engine will free-rev better, and decelerate quicker, but you will lose torque, so accelerating up hills will be more difficult, and you will lose effective gearing due to the torque loss. The engine may also idle less smoothly, but that's not a huge weight loss so you may not notice much. Basically it's really not worth the time and effort to lighten the flywheel of a 73 HP N/A engine built for a 4WD D/R vehicle - in fact it's counter-productive because torque is the engine's best and most useful attribute. There are plenty of more productive changes that could be made to the engine - just having the distributor recurved is good for around 10 or more ft/lbs of torque and doesn't even require the engine to be pulled. I'm saying your money is better spent on other things. GD

ATF will do the same thing, just cheaper. Rislone, MMO, etc are just heavy detergent oils. Try spraying down your engine bay with ATF sometime I've run manual tranny's with 100% ATF for a few hundred miles and they are CLEAN after that. It won't hurt anything in the short term as long as you are careful with your shifting - racers use it all the time for lower gear resistance, and if you think about it, automatic transmissions have the same gears in them and they run ATF for hundreds of thousands of miles. Using it for a few hundred as a cleaner is perfectly safe. GD

I know my Brat has a tighter turning radius than my 86 sedan, but it's pretty close. GD

Yeah - those are pretty easy to bend. The passenger rod on my sedan was bent like a horshoe when I got it and it really knocked the alignment off - you should check the control arm as well - often they are bent too, but you have to look close to tell. It will be "twisted" like a peice of red vines because the radius rod pulls backwards on it. GD

1 qt. every 3000 is still within spec. according to Subaru. I would say 1/2 qt is fine for any 20 yr old car. GD

In my experience duals are terrible off-road. The space between the tires fills up with mud, and occasionally rocks get stuck in there too. This leads to a bunch of extra weight, and a loss of traction from the mud slick. I've broken 3" limbs trying to lever out stuff stuck in the duals of the dueces. Even the military has gone away from them in favor of more adanced single tire designs, and more axles for load bearing. They are great for towing, and for carrying heavy loads, but for off-road they are just not the right technology. It's unsafe to air them down because as the two tires flex toward each other, things caught between them can puncture the sidewall. I've passed dualie trucks stuck in snow with my soob. GD