GeneralDisorder

+1. Maybe your cat exploded inside and you have too much back-pressure. GD

Why would you want to do that? Yes, you could, but you need the push rods, and rocker assembly as well. The hydro's are better all around as they don't need adjustment. And the EA81 hydro lifters rarely tick like the EA82's. Plus the hydro rods are steel and the solid are aluminium. GD

You should post this in the "newer" generation forum. Us old gen types work with pre-1990 stuff mostly. GD

I've done both belts and a new oil pump gasket in 20 minutes without the covers. But yeah - 4 hours is fine. It would take me that long to do one with covers because it would be (by default) the first time I would have that engine apart. Thus I would be checking everything, and removing the cam sprockets to get the rear covers off. Personally I always remove the radiator - it's only two bolts, and I leave the fan attached to it. But then I have big hands, and I am sort of attached to the flesh and would rather keep it if possible. GD

Should be fine, yeah. I've passed without it. GD

Gotta love the Medford police for letting you guys drive stuff like that. GD

The orange 85/86 turbo version was by far the coolest - it had the animated turbo impeller. But none of them are really gods gift to guage clusters. GD

Maybe a main seal? Would you be be able to tell if the oil was leaking into the prop drive? GD

Dissimilar metals + liquid = battery. Unless the coolant is changed every couple years the zinc in it will deplete to levels where the aluminium could be damaged. GD

Don't care what your age is - lets see what you've done? You gain respect around here for helping folks solve problems, and for showing what you have done. With all your vast knowledge you have two choices - put up or shut up. Here's my latest write up: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html So? Lets see what you have done and lets see you help some folks around here. GD

I just get universal 8mm V8 sets and make two subie sets from them. But then I'm way too cheap for megnecor's - I pull decent plug wire sets from the junk yard when I see em too. All my engines run fine. GD

Heh. Need a shop midget for that one. Grind a small groove on the top edge of each flat side of the nut, and use a screwdriver and a hammer on it. GD

Not per-se. Go with 12 ft/lbs if you really must havea figure. Just tight is fine. GD

I'm assuming their fuel injection (which they don't manufacture) doesn't support dual igntion in the form of EDIS. Maybe that's the next version or something. GD

There's nothing to "recurve" in an SPFI disty. That's all done by the ECU. http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html GD

All EA81's came stock with 2 row radiators. They are amazing cooling units. Many folks have found them to be perfectly adequate for the EJ22, etc. I'm using my Brat's stock radiator (it's a new one - I replaced it a few years back) for the EA82 that's in it right now. GD

Aint that the retched truth! Neither are very good, but I took a look just to see cause I knew I had seen RTV in *something*. I keep ending up with haynes manuals from cars I've bought so I keep one in the bathroom, and another in the kitchen ya know. GD

Interestingly, the belts spin so fast that dirt, oil, rocks, etc don't stick. It all gets flung off. I've run for about 50,000 combined with no covers and never had any trouble except when I dropped that shop rag. It could arguably prevent premature failure because you can inspect the belts visually at each oil change, and it makes replacement of say a single squeeking tension really trivial. It's nice to be able to redo the belt tension each 10,000 miles as the belts stretch - hopefully it will lengthen their life as well. It's important to note that this is common practice with a lot of other brands too - a lot of VW owners do it too. Even if it shortened the life of the belt by 10,000 miles (which it doesn't as far as I can tell), I would still run without them just for the advantage of being able to replace them on the side of the road with only a 12mm deep socket and ratchet. 2 hours minimum with the covers, 20 minutes without. GD

You *can* repack the tensioner bearings - it's not impossible. It does take a grease gun and a needle fitting to pump the grease in. Unless I have another reason to pull the engine, I prefer to do belts (and head gaskets for that matter) in the car. I own a hoist but if you have a set of ratcheting wrenches you don't need to pull it. Definately pull the radiator to make room to work, and I sugest getting the front up on jack stands so you can get to the drivers side belt (and the oil pump) from underneath. Also if you leave the belt covers off, you can change the belt next time it breaks in about 20 minutes (not kidding) as there is no need to remove anything but the accesory belts. It also makes it a lot easier to check their tension, and to inspect things without them. And it really doesn't shorten their life - the consensus here on the board is that it's fine either way. Although I did drop a rag in there with it running and it snapped both belts instantly..... just don't do that and you'll be fine. GD

No-lookie like any anearobic stuff I've ever seen: http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/product/series/sealants/popup/1200/1215popup.html That dookie-lookin thing looks a lot like Ultra Grey to my eyes.... Additionally, my haynes manual say specifically "RTV". GD

Lube - lots of lube. Get a can of white lithium spray grease and go to town on the pivots and actuators in the door - then spray the windows rails, hinges, etc, etc, etc. Just spray anything that moves on the whole car with that stuff. It's great and water repellant too! GD

Yeah - it's the same idea. Just look for ones that don't have the "vent", or plug the vent with a cap or a bit of hose and a bolt. GD

You do have to be careful with the amount of RTV you use, that's true. But I've never had it leak when a proper, even bead was applied and allowed to cure before the engine was manhandled and started up. Neither have I had any break off in my oil. But that's also possible if you use too much. Anaerobic is just too bloody expensive to use where it's not needed IMO, and just as with RTV, a careful even bead must be applied to insure no leaks. For the reccord, the FSM calls for RTV. GD

NO. Anaerobic sealant is for use where no oxygen is present (that's the definition of anaerobic - it cures in the absence of oxygen), and for FLAT machined flange surfaces. Besides that it's 4 times as expensive and totally uneccesary. The factory used RTV, and took the time to put the groove there to hold it. Anaerobic is used between the block halves - not on the cam cases. GD

We should probably take this to PM land. PM sent. GD