GeneralDisorder

Do you read anything? He has a 90 Turbo - that's 115 HP, and likely it's 4WD, but he didn't say one way or the other. Damn. There's almost no difference in a "GL" versus a "Loyale". It's the same damn thing with a different badge. GD

The 3AT's are junk. They won't handle the power. You would need a newer auto, but they are computer controlled and that would add to the swap complexity. As for what swaps - anything you want if you spend the time. I've seen STi engines in Brat's and Loyale's. GD

But you don't - you need the injector bosses in the heads, and that's going to cost just short of an a$$load for a set of EA81T heads. Then you need an SPFI manifold... etc. The reality is that SPFI would be MUCH cheaper, more effecient, and not a huge pain-in-the-a$$ conglomeration of german Bosch and japanese Hitachi. Waste of time I say. Reinventing the wheel isn't "different" it's stupid. GD

Looking at my factory service manual the procedure is...... I suppose "nasty" is the right word for it. It involves turning the tranny on it's side with a special weight on the top (no idea how much, it's a dealer service tool), and then turning the input shaft while tightening the bottom adjuster till a slight resistance is felt, backing it off, turning the input shaft, tapping with a hammer, checking the backlash with a dial guage through the drain plug hole, and then doing a contact pattern test with "red lead" on the crown gear, yada, yada, yada..... um yeah don't EVER touch one of those. That's about all the knowledge I have on them. I've always marked them when taking them out to replace the seal, etc or when dismantling the tranny. You have to mark the posistion where it was tight, and then mark it again just where the threads dis-engage from the housing in order for the threads to start in the same spot as before. GD

There's a special socket you use with a torque wrench on it. I don't have the exact procedure, but someone around here probably does. GD

What's the point? The EA82 hood is light enough to pick up and move around easily - every actually weigh one? It's pretty insignificant really. you are looking at a savings of 25 lbs? Go on a diet. I can think of a lot more poductive ways to spend $400. That's about $16 per pound of lost weight - I can buy a lot of sawzall blades, fiberglass, and rivets for that much. I guess if you want it for the "look", but then why not just use the $400 towards a nicer rig? GD

Ignition stuffs may have gotten wet. Check all your plugs and wires, etc. The EJ's tend to bend rods or break pistons when they get sunk in water like that. Get yourself a snorkel if you plan to do this a lot. And change your oil - water contamination is pretty sinister on the lube system. GD

The "spinny thing" sets the front diff spider gear pre-load. Put it EXACTLY back where it was or the front diff will eat itself. GD

It bolts straight on - you will need to get under to get the linkages out. You will also need the interior consoles around the shifter, and the forward metal bracket that the plastic stuff screws onto. GD

Then it's definately not from a Legacy. Just bolts straight up then. The D/R and the push-button use exactly the same housings. Everything will work stock, but you will need the D/R shift linkages. GD

You need a D/R from an older Loyale (GL here) - 85 to 89 models. The Legacy transmission will not bolt up to your engine, and it has a very weak low range - 1.2:1 vs. the GL's 1.59:1 GD

That's for port injectors, and generally doesn't apply to TBI injectors. The idea is the same, but TBI injectors flow a LOT more already. They *could* increase the flow but it's not generally done. GD

My vote is for a partially frozen or badly worn u-joint. Brakeing turns the rear diff into an artificial LSD, and will make a bad u-joint vibrate more, and you will still feel it while not brakeing as well. He lives in rust territory, it's 20 years old, and the EA82 U's are not greaseable. I've had the serviceable u-joints of the EA81's freeze up even here on the left coast. At least with the EA81 they are easily replaceable. If they lose one degree of freedom they will still turn but will bind slightly causing the vibration. The humming sound I would look at the front wheel bearings. They may not have any play, but often the outer bearing will rust and start to make that humming vibration noise. I've replaced quite a disturbing number of them. GD

New O2 sensor, clean your MAF and air filter, check resistance of your CTS to make sure it's within spec for hot and cold running. Make sure there are NO exhaust leaks forward of the O2 sensor as this will intoduce fresh oxygen and make the ECU enrich the mixture when it should not. Make sure your oil cap and dipstick seal tight - these are common vacuum leaks. When you have done all that, run a D-Check procedure and check for codes from the ECU. Shop is talking out their anus - the injectors cannot be "rebuilt", and I've never seen or heard of one failing. The one I'm using on my Brat came from a wrecked loyale with 248k on it. Runs like a champ. Nod your head, smile, and walk slowly away from those guys :-\ GD

You use the EJ engine mounts - they bolt right up. You need a 1/2" thick adaptor plate for the transmission - you can make your own or several members make them for around $100-$200. The EJ22G exhaust should bolt up to the EA82 mid-pipe. You need the ECU and wireing harness from the donor car, and you just strip the engine portion, give it power, and mount the ECU under the dash. Radiator hoses are interesting, but ask others here how they have done it. It's a well-documented swap, with plenty of people around here having done it. GD

just curious, but how do you plan to register this in CA? GD

Rubber mallet. About $3 at harbor freight. GD

The plug is the same as a female 2 prong plug on any of 3 dozen connectors all over the place in your wireing. Or just use some female spade connectors availible at the parts store. As for the switch, the dealer is your friend there. Or you can probably take the switch apart and clean up the contacts to make it work. Or get a couple toggle switches and get creative. GD

Yeah - you could do that. I thought of it years ago, and just recently a member worked up a table of sizes and rear diff ratio's. But it wouldn't buy you much of anything unless you off-road in reverse. Help the departure angle a bit maybe but that's about it. Clearance in the rear is already more than in the front. GD

I tried to tell him that . Scared of the wireing for the SPFI swap I guess. The CIS E is simpler, but not as effecient as the SPFI, and to install it you will still be using a lot of SPFI parts. It's also a lot harder to install, as it requires all the same changes to the fuel system as the SPFI, and still requires the 02 sensor. It's been done to an EA82 MPFI engine.... look up CIS_Subaru - he's the user on here that's done it. He used to have a write up on it, but I can't find it now. GD

Not so much here on the left coast. Our stuff is in pretty clean condition. Everything works good on my 86 even. GD

Shouldn't 86 be on the dash? It is on my 86 sedan anyway. I thought 87 was the first year for the stalk mounted wiper control... GD

I bet they grabbed one from a lower model Loyale, and didn't notice. Should be pretty easy to swap once you get the wheel off. GD

You may not be cruising at 6k, but when you merge on the freeway with 27" tires you WILL rev to 6k before you shift or you'll be crushed by a semi. 6k won't hurt it - the SPFI block's have a 6.5k redline, and all mine will easily rev past 7. GD

100 - 200 miles seems to do the job. Just use some cheap ATF. Then drain and fill with a quality synthetic - I prefer the Redline myself. It's not so sticky in the cold. But at $9.75 a qaurt it better be good stuff. GD