GeneralDisorder

The wacky camber in the rear doesn't hurt anything really - as much as it looks weird, it's not a problem because the rears aren't steerable wheels. Bad camber on the front is not good on the tires, but the rear isn't a problem. Get some chevy rims - wider offset, won't rub, and will handle better without the sway bar. Like this . Seriously dude - you have to drop by - I have toys...... GD

Besides the strut tops, lifts are pretty simple. SJR seems to know his stuff, and there's quite a number of folks using them. I wouldn't worry about axle angles - it's over-extension you have to worry about more than anything, and you can stop that will travel-limiting straps. If you are enterprising enough to build the steering linkage I would sugest buying his strut tops and possibly the diff lowering shim if you want one, and doing the rest of the blocks yourself. 1/4" wall channel makes perfectly adequate lift blocks. I've pounded the hell out of mine, and I managed to bend my struts - blocks are all solid as the day I installed them. I have a local place called "metal supermarkets" cut me 2" sections of 2x4 1/4" wall channel ($5 each - you need 10 for the front, and the rear depends on how you do it) and then drill 1/2" holes in either end. Use the stock mounting bolts to mount the block to the uni-body, and then use some 1/2" grade 8 hardware to anchor the suspension to the blocks. I had problems in the past with using bolts that go all the way though the block into the frame - besides them being a LOT more expensive, as the blocks flex it puts a lot of strain on the long bolt, and the bolts can break, or damage the capture nuts in the frame. The steel that the capture nuts is welded to is only about 1/8" thick and doesn't take much flexing to eventually cause a stress fracture. Useing the stock short bolts with a hollow channel block is both inexpensive, and avoids potential problems with 5" bolts flexing. GD

Yeah - I know Well said BTW. I can be less than tactful at times... thus my tag. Now that I've dragged the carcass out to the pen, I'll let you dogs chew it up GD

Not much. If it's 4WD, then it's a single range 1600, and if it's 2WD it might be an 1800. Still - not very desireable unless you really like the looks of it. 2WD's aren't very desireable anyway, and 1600 single range's aren't really sought after either. I would say $500 or less depending on condition, and tending toward "less". Personally I wouldn't buy it at any cost as it wouldn't have a single part I could use - even if it has an EA81 in it, it's a small intake valve, solid lifter engine..... not the desireable ones I look for. GD

Usually the clocks just need the solder joints on the back remelted with an iron and they are fine. They crack with age is seems. Remove the glove box to get at te plug, and just pry the clock out of the dash. As for the climate controls - you'll have to remove the cluster surround to get the control unit out - and I would probably just replace that thing. I've never seen one with stuck buttons, but it's probably all cracked and messed up if that's the case. Easier to get another one. GD

Pretty much. I've never broken one. Some of the HUGE lifted rigs have twisted the stubs in two, but that's with nissan t-case's, 10" of lift and 32's, etc. No street rig that I know has blown one that wasn't run out of oil or something. The 510 crowd uses them too, and our LSD's are sought after for their rally builds. GD

IIRC, they are pretty spendy?!? I'm not sure tho. I think it's a standard size you can get at Napa or something. Bring the old one in with you and see what you can find. GD

You increased your fuel pressure (it's the venturi effect of forcing the liquid through a smaller opening), and it's "masking" a sticky float. I would say it's fine, but if you notice really bad mileage then it means that the float isn't capable of shutting soon enough and the fuel level is too high in the chamber. It could also damage the pump eventually as they aren't really meant to be run "dead head" (means without a return to the tank). GD

It's too bad your Subaru experience had to be with a turbo EA82. They really are probably one of the worst for routine problems. It's not to say they weren't good vehicles, but just that after 20 years the added complexity of the turbo system makes them an undesireable choice for the mechanically un-inclined. Definately an "enthusiast" car at this point, and you really have to love it to keep it on the road. If you run across a deal on an early 90's AWD legacy don't hessitate to pick it up. It will have that feel that you like, and be the maintenance free machine you would have liked your wagon to have been. The SPFI Loyale's are alright as well - just stay away from the auto's. GD

I know the climate well - I was stationed in Maryland durring winter, and traveled to New York, etc. Besides that I've seen winter in Korea with -40 temps. You are 6 years older than me - hardly a decade, and I've been wrenching since I could hold one. Most especially I've owned and operated far more subaru's than you. Regardless, temps cold enough to change the molecular structure of steel are in the cryogenic range, which STARTS at -238 degrees below zero. Cold enough to freeze the water in your toilet, not to mention the blood in your viens. I'm not the only one that's annoyed by your ranting, word-salad posts, and your inability to learn anything from the educated, and well-worded members here (but I may be the loudest ). You disregard everyone's opinion but your own, and your posts are basically about "look how I fixed this and none of you knew what was wrong!". We don't want to hear about you fixing things that: don't exist/aren't broken/have nothing to do with the problem. Either learn the correct terminology and take some classes on basic theory, or go away. Seriously - do you see me being a huge rump roast to anyone else? Definately not to this degree anyway. A LOT of people are sick of it. I have tried to help you, and it goes no where. I can't see a logical process you are taking to solve problems. What you do is almost akin to reading chicken bones, and making voodoo dolls. Sorry, but this isn't the way we solve problems in the age of science. GD

Probably the pump then. Any carb pump that does about 3 psi will work fine. The stock pumps are 2.5 to 3 psi or so. GD

That's true - I should also make note that my 33 MPG road trip was at 70 to 75 Mph as the I-5 in WA was 70 at the time. Had I slowed down to 55 the mileage would have been better I'm sure. GD

Not difficult - I just swapped an auto to a manual on a Loyale a few weeks ago. It's just a matter of bolting it up. Have to use the manual tranny cross-member, and swap the rear diff, and driveline. No problem at all. The EA manual's are good to around 150 - 200 HP in stock form easily. The only real weak point is the reverse gear shift dog - they tend to not mesh properly after many years of loose linakges - a few grinds and they will shear off. If the linkages are kept in good order, they are fine. Any more power than that, and you'll want to step up to a WRX 5 speed or the STi 6 speed. GD

It's also possible for a lot of pine needles, leaves, gunk, and pocket lint to corrupt your heater core - that only applies to vehicles without AC, but it can happen. Also a partially clogged core can not get enough coolant flow to heat the air up. If you are enterprising, the core can be replaced in about a day. Or as tom mentioned - those little electric jobbies are pretty cheap. I had thought about that myself. There's other options - I thought about running heater core hose into the cabin to a spare heater core, and blowing air over it with a radiator fan. Maybe mounting the whole thing to a wooden crate and setting it in the passenger area....... or you can light your passenger seat on fire..... yeah GD

Sure - slap an 4.11 (or 4.44) R160 from a leganus up there, and get some bigger tires to counteract the difference in ratio's. Nothing at all stopping your from doing it - I just don't see a whole lot of practical use for it, except for a dune buggy type of use where you want big paddles in the back, and small straight grooves for steering in the front.... GD

Very good guys: http://www.philbingroup.com/ GD

This is the transmission from hades - seriously the thing leaks if you just stare at it in a way it doesn't find pleasing . Only potential for leak I could find is that rear output - it's definately comming from somewhere back there, and that seams the likely spot considering the splash coverage. Do this - spray the whole area down with brake cleaner to get all the mess off, then run it down the road a bit and check it right away. See if you can locate the leak better that way. It was raining, and messy when I looked at it so I could be wrong. Best to double check it. GD

They are out of their mind. Even the justy was only about 38 to 40. Expect to see in the mid 30's because it's 2WD, and fairly light. As a comparison my EA81 2WD wagon with a Weber did 33 MPG on a road trip a few years back. The STD hatch should be a bit better than that - probably 35 or therabouts. Put an EA81 and SPFI on it, and you might be pushing 40. The hatch's all have a small tank, so don't expect long voyages. On my wagon I could push 400 miles, but the hatch tank is several gallons smaller. GD

Thank God! I'm not alone afterall. Maine? Surely you jest.... your winters are nothing to write home about pal. Try Korea on for size. And I don't care if it's 100 below zero, the axles are not going to "Bend". You are full of i$ht, and you have been since you started posting here. Lay off the pharms man. GD

Remove the choke housing - I think you may find that the bi-metal spring inside the housing has worn through and the "hook" on the end has fallen off giving the chock no spring to close it. Best way to deal with that is to replace it with the later 83/84 style choke that has the plastic spring/heater housing and eliminate the second pull-off pot on the back. I know that's not an easy description to follow, but just pull that housing off and check the spring - you'll probably find the small peice of hook just chilling in the bottom of the housing. At which point you will say "crap - now how do I fix THAT?". Just come back here, and we'll get ya fixed up. GD

Sure - if you want to do a swap on it, I don't mind helping out. It's not all that hard really. Foster u-pull-it eh? That would be sweet I'm sure. I could use an "inside man". Hehe. Someone put coil-overs in the back? That's would give it like 3-4" of lift. That's how the rear lift is done on my wagon..... GD

I swear by them. I tend to swear AT the EA82's a lot more. Drop the SPFI on the EA81, add power steering if you don't have it, put in a 5 speed D/R, rear discs bolt on.... They are less complex machines - no vacuum diaphram system for the heat controls, much studier radiator/cooling system, less prone to head gasket failure, no timing belts. Water pump and oil pump are both easily changed in 15 minutes, and the front main seal is right under the pulley. What's not to like? I had a DL I got from the orignal owner - 316k on it then - now it's got 370 somthing. GD

Mass Airflow Sensor GD

We can only hope that it will break the bank and he will join a Toyota forum Watch out for those meteor's - they are atracted to GL's ya know. GD

ECU - you can't - it's hard coded. It doesn't matter either way though. That's not the source of your problem. CTS = Coolant Temp Sensor. Very important that you clean your MAF as well. It takes about 10 minutes with a can of brake cleaner. You'll spend hours on the O2, so do the MAF at the same time. Warm up the car, drop the exhaust, loosen the O2 about 1/4 turn and spray it with a whole bunch of PB blaster, etc - let it sit for about 20 minutes then it should come right out. Chase the threads with a spark plug thread chaser before you install the new one. GD