GeneralDisorder

There is a write up, but it's mostly for EA82's, and does not cover the EA81 specifics at all. The swap is somewhat more involved for the EA81. I've done several harnesses now, and I'm considering building the harnesses and distributors for sale here on the board. It takes me about 10 hours of work to make one harness. It's not completely plug and play because the EA81 does not have enough relays, fuses or fuseable links. All these have to be added, and things like the speed sensor have to be fished out from behind the guage cluster as well as the ECS light if you don't have a feedback carb... etc. If it's something you want to do I'll help with anything I can GD

Try www.XT6.net Lots of XT owners over there, and people that have parted out XT's for their 6's.... probably more knowledge than here. That's strange about the cables - maybe they are longer because of the different body shape. GD

Just swap em. It will work without any real changes. You can remove the duty solenoids at the same time (if you want). The rest of the stuff you can just cap off and it will just sit there unused. The ECU will complain with an ECS light after you drive for a while - which can be cured by removing the ECU and tossing it in the dumpster. Leave the 02 sensor - if you decide to go with SPFI later it will work with that, and it doesn't hurt anything to leave it. GD

That doesn't really matter. As long as the SPFI portion of the donor harness can be grafted into the power and ignition circuits it will run with the existing fuel system. The MPFI portion does not need to be touched even. It could be left in place (although this will result in a LOT of wires). The real question is if the 4EAT TCU can run with the SPFI harness, and what wires need to be spliced over to the TCU If you haven't messed with the TCU based 4EAT, then you have no applicaple experience - just like me. We simply don't know. I beleive it's possible, but someone with experience working on the 4EAT would know better. Ask the new generation section of this board - they would know. GD

Those impellers are generally attached by heating them with an acetylene torch to expand the hole for the motor shaft. It will likely be extremely difficult to remove, and just as difficult to re-attach to a new drive system. A better alternative for mechanical forced induction would be the blower from a thunderchicken super coupe (cheaper too). GD

At the extremely expensive cost of ruining your bearings in your engine when the lucas turns your oil into a milkshake, I'm sure it does help: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm GD

For the most part I disagree. Their tests are not performed in a lab, but then again neither is life. Life isn't a test tube, and very few things are perfect like a lab experiment. They do what is refered to as "emperical" testing which is very valid for everday type of things like testing mileage changes with fuel additives. If you think you can do better, go for it - maybe we'll see you on TV. They used an 80's carbed vehicle for the tests. And as far as additives are concerned, much like oil additives they are crap. If you are getting mileage increases from using kerosene, then your engine isn't tuned properly for gasoline. GD

If you are running the original 82 engine, pitch the heads in a dumpster. The intake valves are 2mm smaller than 83+ heads. And SPFI is the way to go. I may be making wireing harnesses for it soon as well. I just made my second harness, and it was noticeably easier this time around. GD

Probably a pipe - it doesn't leave the residue and smell like cigarettes. In fact a surprising number of pipe tobacco's smell really good. GD

Stubs are removable. Is it possible that's the only difference? If the fork is to the drivers side then it's a plain old 5 speed 4WD cable. If it's the passenger side it's special. What does the clutch release bearing look like? Is it a two peice or a single peice unit? If that's true, then it quite possibly is a strange cable with the EA81 passenger side fork and the EA82 pedal side. If this is the case, you will probably have to swap an EA81 pedal assembly and use an EA81 cable. That's bizzare. I've broken NAPA cables, Autozone cables, and one that was just "japan". Never has an OEM cable failed on me with the exception of the high mileage ones I replaced when I aquired a couple of my rigs. GD

2WD should be longer - fork is towards the passenger side more. GD

LOTS of stuff can cause poor idle conditions. The problem with looking down the carb is that fuel delivery at idle is a function of how the engine is running overall - missing and idleing at low speeds will cause massive fluctuations in engine vacuum and won't pull fuel through the carb evenly. Check for vacuum leaks, as this can manifest itself as poor idle, and then run seemingly normal off-idle. The carb may want some cleaning too. GD

Really? What's the 4th gear ratio on those? I had no idea! GD

Heh - all it says is "International" - I didn't know where he was from :-p But yes - I put 185's on my GF's 2WD coupe so it's set when it gets a 4WD swap soon. No problems. GD

So have many, many others that have come before you and failed. And some of them know where the SHIFT key on the keyboard is So it has been claimed. Sadly even that over-used statement isn't true. But one thing IS possible with unlimited money: Stupidity. You need look no further than our own government to see that truth. The EA82T can barely handle the 7 psi it's got stock. The amount of work and time it would take to get the engine to handle 25 lbs of boost (that's the most a *normal* MS ECU can run without changing the MAP sensor for something exotic) isn't cost effective. If we were in a race with the Russians NASA could do it, sure - but they would end up with an engine that looks exactly like an EJ22G..... so why not stand on the shoulders of giants instead of wallowing in the muck with the pleebs? GD

You know not what you speak. Have you read the manual for MS? You ever tuned one? 15 HP wouldn't be possible without increaseing the boost to dangerous levels. Besides doing anything expensive like MS to an EA82T is just a waste of good money. Push that engine off a cliff in a wheelbarrow. At least that will only cost you $39.99 for the wheelbarrow. GD

Aftermarket clutch cables suck. Period. End of story. The OEM cables are excelent quality, and besides that, cheap. I've had at least 3 aftermarket units crap out on me, and since being replace with OEM I've never had a problem with any of them. Shipping shouldn't be any more from a proper dealer than it is from a web site. Some dealers do have minimum order requirements, but I'm sure you can think of some other stuff to buy. The problem with sugesting what cable you need is that the 2WD 5 speed tranny probably needs a longer cable due to it being a hold-over transmission from the EA81 days. The clutch fork is farther to the passenger side so a normal EA82 5 speed cable will be too short, and the EA81 cable won't have the right pedal end on it. So to avoid complete and utter confusion and to prevent you from aquireing the wrong cable, or a crappy aftermarket unit, I sugested the dealer. It IS without a doubt, your best option. If they want a VIN, start a thread and explain your situation, and ask if someone would be willing to supply your with their VIN in a PM so that you might deal with your unruly dealership. You'll just have to play the game if you want the correct, quality parts. GD

Well heck - you're no fun then GD

oil fill should be tight. If the PCV system isn't working it can blow seals right out of the engine - I had a cam seal push right out the front and was just hanging there on the cam. BIG leak. Like 1 quart every 10 miles big. GD

Well that sure is strange. Maybe some got it and some didn't. I wonder if different factories were still useing up old stock of the rubber ones or something. Seems really hit and miss on them. The metal can't really rust away, so.... it's all a bit confusing isn't it? :-\ Can you see the fuji logo on the old HG's? GD

Weird - I just did a 91 Loyale engine and it was rubber/metal. Is it possible your's have been replaced before? This engine I just did only had 145k on it, and the HG's were OEM. GD

Call them, get the part number and price, and order it locally then. GD

Call up the guys at www.subaruparts.com They are a dealership in WA, and will get you what you need. They have excelent prices, and I've dealt with them before. Very good service. Don't be fooled by the fancy web site and such - it's just a dealership in Tacoma WA. Also - that VIN thing is weird. My local dealership (Lithia Subaru in Oregon City) gives me wholesale on everything, and has never asked for a VIN, just model and year. GD

Go to the dealer - the clutch cables are only like $20, and you are guaranteed to get the right one. GD

Just bigger in diameter. 185's were stock for the 4WD GL's, and 175's were stock for all 2WD's and 4WD DL's. The 185's will give you higher ground clearance. It all depends on what you are driving in. For snow, I actually like a studded 165/80r13 as it's the same diamter as the 185/70, but it's a pizza cutter thin tire, and with studs they dig down and grip easier. For generall off-road the 185 is probably better. GD