GeneralDisorder

She's totally confused - it's probably just a GL Turbo. It could be a GL-10, but it's hard to say. The push-button was real common on the Turbo, and on the DL. Wierd how the top of the line, and the bottom got the same tranny?? Good example - I got a tip on a sedan. Guy's wife said it's an 83, then I talk to him and he says it's an 84 (so still EA81), and says it's a 5 speed 4WD, so I figure it's really an 85 with an 84 build date..... I get there and it's an 86 . People got no idea what they own. GD

Oh yes - don't have a price just yet. Been too nasty to get to the yards for some harnesses. The write up will contain everything you need to do it yourself if you want - no need to buy from me unless you don't want to, or can't find the parts. Write up will probably be online sometime this weekend. GD

It's fine to leave the valve out on the EA82's because they had valves for the drums. But I HAD to install it in my Brat - it would lock the rears easily without it - very scary on wet pavement. GD

On the single peice units the other taper bearings should come off for packing.... IIRC, but it's been a while since I messed with one. Usually the grease packed with bearings is supposed to be flushed out and replaced before install, unless you buy sealed bearings. GD

No need to save it - I have LOTS more. Wait till my write up goes live. If you like that one, you are going to crap yourself.... "If I have seen farther, it is only because I have stood on the shoulders of giants." You'll be getting credit in my write up, as well as a prominant link to your original PDF, which is EXCELENT (I read it before doing my first conversion), but just a bit lacking in pictures I felt. That, and my version is not only dealing with the conversion, but the modifications needed to adapt to the EA81 (where pictures are even more critical). GD

Ok - I guess I got confused - I think for some reason I was assuming it was turbo. Where did I get that ..... Um - anyway - ok so if it's an 86 push-button it really *should* be a DL (crank windows and all that business), but maybe a GL - most all GL's were already D/R tho. At any rate, you are looking at a carb, yes. 86 4WD's (regardless of push-button or D/R) were carbed across the board (except turbo's). So disregard what I said about the neutral switch since it wouldn't apply to a carbed vehicle. GD

Yeah - didn't think to check email - I got it now, and sent you a PM. GD

Yeah - basically. I coat lots of my gaskets, except for the graphite/metal stuff like HG's and intake manifold. If it's cardboard, I feel it needs something gooey on it But - it's very important for things like the oil pan that the sealant be allowed to dry before it's installed or bits could get sucked into oil passages and wreak havoc. GD

D/R tranny's didn't come with fuel injection till 88 (except for the RX's and such - but those are 1.2:1 crappy low range, and 3.7 read diff), so any that you find that are older are from carbed vehicles that didn't need the switch. Sadly it can't be added to the older trans as the spot for it is not drilled and tapped, and can't be unless the transfer case is removed from the trans - which is WAY too much work. GD

One was superceeded by the other at some point in the subaru parts system. Either one will work. GD

Yeah - tell me about it. Even the FSM's are woefully inadequate for this kind of a job - they deal with how to "fix" it, not how to redesign it. In order to swap it, you will have to remove the dash - the dash harness ends on the passenger side where the "rear-end" harness starts. That's a huge nightmare too, and even then if you swap it, you won't be able to use the push-button 4WD system without wiring that up - it's not going to match up with the gauge cluster wireing, and I'm not even sure the dash harness will work with the rear-end harness..... you travel into uncharted territory if you go that route. If you piggyback the SPFI harness, it will just work, and you won't have to worry about anything other than giving it power, and hooking it into a half a dozen wires under the dash that are easily accesible. GD

Yeah - that one is shorter, but only the front portion. The rear section of the driveline is the same for all Gen 3 vehicles. GD

Pipe wrench. It *should* be 22mm, but who knows - drain plugs get changed out all the time for random sizes. GD

Pull out the level sender - you'll have to clean it through there. GD

The driveline is not a different length. I have a pushbutton driveline behind the D/R in my Brat, and I just did an auto to manual swap using a D/R and a pushbutton driveline. All 5 speed 4WD tranny's use the same driveline - even the XT6 Basically going from a push-button to D/R is just a matter of swapping the trans and the 4WD shifter linkage into your car. It's very easy. Your only real challenge will be the ECU's neutral switch IF you use a transmision from 87 or earlier. 88 and 89 have the switch, and will hook striaght up, but older units do not. You can use the cruise control clutch switch for this function instead to keep the ECU from throwing a code. In any case, the switch will not prevent you from starting or driving the car, but the CEL will light up after a few miles without it. GD

I can definately help you with the SPFI wireing, but this is going to take some work, and I might need to talk you through it over the phone or something... You have two options I guess: 1) try and make the SPFI harness work without taking it apart. I don't have a complete harness for reference just at the moment, but I'm pretty sure your problems are associated with the dash harness pin-outs - the fuel pump relay supplies power to the fuel pump through the dash harness, and at least one of the ECU power circuits (there's 3) goes through the dash harness as well.... 2) strip out the ECU, power, and sensor portion of the harness and piggyback it to the MPFI harness. Basically letting the MPFI harness handle the "car" (including your transmission, backup lights, 4WD button, and all the other myriad stuff that's going to be a huge PITA with trying to use the MPFI harness) and running the engine with the piggyback. If it were me (and because I've done this before), I would choose #2. It's much more predictable and you are almost gauranteed that it will work. It has the side benefit of being 100% reversible if anyone ever wanted to put a turbo motor back in.... I'm actually working on a wite-up on exactly this sort of thing. My write up deals with specifically converting carbed engines to SPFI, but as many carbed engines were also computer controlled, it's nearly identical to what you are doing, except it will be easier for you. Here's a picture to get you oreiented to what you need exactly from the SPFI harness (you can lose over half of it by taking out only the engine section). My complete write up isn't totally ready yet, but I will help you with whatever I can... GD

Sure - but do both sides if you are going to do it, and get some Fel-Pro HG's too. The rocker bolts slip through holes in the frame - there's rubber plugs you remove, and retrieve the bolt from behind the wheel well. The heads will slide right off no problem. GD

Any decent parts store should have it, or a similar product. It's in a can that looks just like the rubber cement that smelled oh-so-good back in grade school. It's a red can with the edelbrock logo.... Baxter's auto parts has it around here, but I don't know if you have them where you are. Heck - you could probably just USE rubber cement.... it smells very similar. GD

Nice paint scheme! Looks.... 80's and.... Russian for some reason. I like! Anyway, you should convert that thing to 4WD. All the knowledge is here on this board should you want to do it... Then again, 2WD Brat's (or is it an MV over there?) are rather cool too - we didn't get them here. Is it a 4 speed or a 5 speed FWD? More pictures! GD

You can - but they are just cardboard, and the material likes to absorb coolant and eventually fail - similar to the cheap aftermarket manifold gaskets. If you coat them first they are usually fine, and as a side benefit, the gaskets will come back off clean even years later using that stuff. So if you have to remove it for some reason it won't destroy the gaskets. GD

Oh yeah - tuning: If it's been profesionally rebuilt *correctly* you shouldn't have to mess with ANYTHING except the idle speed screw. The idle mixture is not supposed to be adjusted, and the choke is held in place with a brass pin and riveted - it should not be moved either. That said, it may be neccesary to change things as often rebuilds on these are difficult, and it's not uncommon for those rebuild places to screw something in too lean or something. GD

Vacuum secondary is a small hose from one part of the carb to another - you won't have to touch or mess with it in any way. Make sure you use NEW gaskets between the base and the plastic spacer, and between the spacer and the carb. And make sure you use gaskachinch on them (it's made my edelbrock - it's kind of like plastic cement) or you will have a coolant leak. Prep the surfaces really well with a razor blade scraper, and a wire wheel. While you are down there, replace the small 1/4" coolant hose from the thermostat housing to below the carb - 1/4" fuel line will work. And drain about 1/2 of the coolant out before you remove the carb, or you will have a mess on your hands. GD

There's TWO DIFFERENT planes listed there, and you are reading the second one, which actually says he had a turbo EA81 GD

I have the free time right now. I'm in West Linn.... I've got plenty of "GM" experience in the ARMY . I would be happy to do it for cheap.... GD

First link shows a CGI image of a plane, and lists it in the specs..... but I don't see that anyone has ever built one. Second link is clearly a mistake - the picture is of someone else's plane, and it looks like it's got a EJ in it.... GD