GeneralDisorder

There isn't one for the digi-dash cars - you will have to add one. I reccomend just getting an aftermarket mechanical guage - I got one at wall-mart for like $10 and it seems to work great. You will have to buy a longer section of tubing though. GD

Pull it - you won't get the tranny out if you don't. GD

All the same - I have a turbo crank in the engine I'm building right now. Side-by-side comparison they are identical. I just happened to have the turbo crank already turned, and an oversized bearing set for it so I used it instead. Got it from a board member who's project engine got caught in a garage fire - crank and new bearings were in his rig cause he had just picked them up from the machine shop GD

I really loved my wagon when it was a 2WD 5 speed. I got 33 MPG with the weber. I would love to find a nice 2WD EA81 and put the SPFI on it. They make a great little commuter for good weather states. My EA82 sedan is nice, but the wagon had more character, and was smaller. GD

Thanks for all the support everyone! 75subie: I would reccomend the 87 to 89 black ECU from a 5 speed, but everything else on that Loyale should work fine. You could use the auto ECU, but you will need to fool the ECU's park switch, and inhibitor switch to prevent codes.... if you need one I can get you one around here, or I also have two Loyale 5 speed ECU's if you want to deal with the clutch switch - a Loyale pedal assembly should fit from what I can see, but I haven't actually tried to swap one into an EA81 - it was easier for me to just pick up a GL ECU and only have to worry about the neutral switch. GD

The ECU does not control the fuel pump. The pump is controlled by a Fuel Pump Control Unit (FPCU) located right above the hood release cable mount under the drivers kick panel. It's got a 6 pin connector on it (only 5 are used on feedback vehicles). It gets ignition power from the accesory circuit to run the pump for like 2 seconds (it's got a timer in it). Then it gets power from the ignition coil positive, and the tach pulse signal from the negative side. If the engine shuts down it cuts power to the pump to prevent fires in case of an accident. The other two pins are fuel pump power, and ground. GD

Could be the door frame itself. On the wagon we just converted from auto to manual the drivers door is like that. On this one it's due to a drunken encounter with a curb by the previous owner. He hit hard enough to crumple the drivers fender and crush the suspension on that side as well. We got it looking decent, but he hasn't tackled the door just yet other than saying it was a bit bent under the wheel well. Then on my Brat I replaced the door, and it's fine, but the window isn't adjusted properly so it's not quite right either. I just have been working on other things and haven't had a chance to adjust it. GD

Total insanity - run away. No 20 year old subaru with an auto is worth that. GD

I'm still tweaking things, and I still need to take some more pictures, but it's ready for people to pick it apart. Here ya go: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html Be prepared to do some reading.... As soon as I get another harness to convert, I'm going to enlarge the harness conversion section with a TON more pictures. The weather is keeping me from it right now, but that should change this next week I hope. GD

Dexron III ATF. GD

Just checked today when I was taking pics. My SPFI does NOT run the pump in the on posistion, but if you turn the key to start it runs continuously. Easy way to check your's - disconnect the small starter solenoid wire and turn the key to start. You should hear the pump run. My check mark goes beside either the temp sensor (just unplug it), or a wireing problem somewhere. GD

There's no modification needed, you just have to either bolt the carrier bearing in, or weld it. I have the two peice in my Brat and it works fine. GD

You can also replace them with resistors and not have to worry about them ever failing again. GD

I can only assume that the rings aren't properly seated. There's basically two ways for oil to get out the exhaust - valve stems, and rings. If you replaced the stem seals then it would seem to indicate the rings as your culprit. Compression rings are fine - but the oil control ring may be installed improperly or something - that's just a guess tho. GD

Not at ALL. The EA82 and EJ series were developed somewhat simutaneously. The EJ was an entirely new design, and the EA82 was just an EA81 with OHC (really just a stop-gap solution while the EJ was finished up. Even the block castings are so similar you can bolt accesories between the two. The EJ is WAY different. 5 mains instead of 3 is just the beginning of the differences. GD

I actually laughed at that one. It means your doors aren't locked. Get in and lock the drivers door - all the other doors will lock and that will go out. GD

Popular doesn't always mean right kid. Pet rocks were popular..... It's clear you have very little experience with mechanics in general. You should read more and put some stock in what those of us who have been around have to say. I've turned wrenches in 8 states, and 3 countries, and I don't talk out my a$$ on too many subjects. Start thinking about the economics of the situation - it's more important than most other factors when talking about consumer products. GD

The consensus around here has been 55 or 60 lbs instead of the factory spec of 47. Personally I do 55, and that has been 100% reliable for me (I don't dabble in turbo's though). No head gasket I've ever replaced with a Fel-Pro, and 55 lbs has shown any signs of failing. GD

Both are too short. GD

Engine is siezed That'll teach you to pay attention to warning lights. Also the oil lamp isn't a "low" warning, it's a low oil PRESSURE warning. Your pressure dropped to a dangerous level (digi-dash huh?), and you probably seized the rings in a cylinder. It's dead, and even a complete tear down probably won't save it. Once the mechanical damage is severe enough to stop the engine from rotating, it's a crispy critter. GD

Most tempering of steel occurs at around 500 degrees and up - oil and salt bath tempering can range from around 475 degrees to over 1000 degrees and higher. So I wouldn't expect any problems with reusing them. I've reused plenty that were overheated. It shouldn't damage the properties of the bolts any. If you got the engine hot enough to de-temper the steel in the bolts you would also de-temper the piston rings, and the engine would seize GD

Metric *anything* is hard here - try finding metric drill bits! Or a metric pin punch. The axle pins are 6mm, but we all use 3/16" because literally no one can source a 6mm punch in the states. Have to get a lathe and make my own :-\ GD

They really aren't all that durable. 105k shouldn't be too bad, but the autos are usually lucky to make it to 200k, and many die long before that. If the fluid looks nice and smells nice, and the thing shifts like warm butter I would probably say it's fine. If not - run the other way. If you get it, definately consider having the tranny power flushed and the filter changed, and keep doing that on a yearly basis. Also a good idea to have the control valve completely dissasembled and cleaned when they do the flush. This will help keep it clean and shifting properly, and will prevent the governor gear from eating itself (transmission death if that happens). GD

Yes - check the modulator, as well as the governor on the passenger side of the tranny. Check the fluid for color, and make sure it doesn't smell "burnt". It doesn't *sound* battery related, but that certainly is odd that it occured right after changing the batt. GD

He's actually taking the lamp assembly and baking it till the sealant can be pulled apart to open the casing. Then you clean out the innards, and smoke them with some paint if you like. Then bake the parts to soften the goop again and push em back together. Pretty sure this has the added benefit that it should seal any holes that have formed in the sealant too. I want to try it sometime myself... GD