Ionstorm66

So I pulled the rear bumper off my parts car to plan out a custom rear bumper. With all the plastic and foam off it's not actually too bad of a design. You could just weld a plate on the rear and top and have a pretty nice steel bumper. The weak point seems to be the mounting tabs. Both of my spare bumpers have one tap tweaked. Probably not a bad weak point to have as it saves the body. Plus you can flip them over and use a jack to untweak it.

There really isnt enough room. Even tried to pull half of it into the door, still couldn't get it. Also sadly those cheesy brackets that came with the lock lasted all of a day. I think i was a little to narrow and the window track was flexing the brackets when it went all the way down. I ended up remaking it our of some 1/8 aluminum. Just have to leave enough room for the window to come down between them. Seems to be working fine now.

Yes neither image shows the fuel filter. Its up on the firewall by the wiper motor.

That's for a legacy. Completely different car sadly.

Pull the inlet line to the filter and stick it in a bottle. The try to turn the car over for a second. There should be fuel in the bottle. The filter is on the firewall next to the wiper motor.

So I figured it would be easy to add remote locking to my Loyale, seeing as it already has central locking. At first I though I would just pull an actuator from another car and install it in the drivers door. Sadly you would need one from a LHD car, because the arms are riveted to the actuators. Oddly they are just clipped to the drivers door switch. So I got a pair of $10 lock actuators off Amazon and made a simple bracket out of the metal that came with the actuators. I then added a cheapo waterproof connector incase I needed to ever replace it. The hardest part was fishing the new wires though the door grommet. I gave up and will pull it though this weekend when I have the fender off to clean some rust.

Resistance on a meter is just measuring voltage drop. The meter is applying voltage, and seeing how much the drop is. While you aren't getting an accurate measurement of the resistance, the meter is telling you there is a voltage drop. The better option is to run the meter in voltage and read the actual voltage drop from ground to ground. It should be sub 0.1V.

That's what I thought. I've been having an issue where the tank will have a ton of pressure in it when I go to fuel up. Like its hard to loosen the cap, and takes 10+ seconds to vent. It also soaks my hand in gas as it vents.

It's missing most of 6-3 sadly. That's the section I ment. It jumps from page 46 to 99

What dose it do?

oof that isnt good. Pull the ground off the starter from the battery and clean it. Then do the same from the chassis ground from the battery. I also add a ground from the starter point to the alternator.

mine is a loyale but the mech is the same. The little bump isnt a plug that comes out?

It isn't a brake, because the wheels rotate freely when off the ground. Also info is on my profile. Its a 92.

The dizzy is geared 1:2 to the cam so it matches the engine. So if you rotated the cam a full rotation it can be out of sync.

Anyone have a PDF for section 6-3 chassis wiring for a wagon? The only one I can find with the 6-3 is for XT.

First part was about the seatbelt overide. Its at the bottom of the b piller The flasher is on a bracket with 4 relays attached to the steering column under the dash. I pulled the drivers seat and did it laying on my back, still was hard to get them back in there.

Here is mine. I'm missing the covers.

Put the seat all the way forward. There is a small hole in the trim at the bottom of the B piler. Has a cover. The flasher is a PITA to get to. its on a bracket attached to the steering column.

Nothing will bolt up with some work from a wrx. You can do knuckles and struts, but I don't think the wrx has the right inners. The EA won't have the right outers. Also nothing on the rear will work. Also the EJ swap is a better idea than rebuilding the EA.

Where are the relays/control module for the power locks located in a EA82? There is no control module. There is just a switch in the drivers door that controls all the others. Also each doors actuator has a switch to tell if that door is locked. The internals of the actuators in impressive.

The belts tend to move the pulleys when you put them on, so make sure the cams are still pointing up when you are done installing. Also you could in theory put a mark 180* from the oe on the passenger side, but it isn't worth it. Takes no time to rotate the engine. Also make sure you use the right timing marks on the flywheel. There are 2 sets and they are different. Also if its rusty use some sandpaper to remove it. The marks are stamped pretty deep so you wont remove them easily.

Saves you from pulling the axles and drive shaft. Just set the diff down on the crate. Makes it a sub 1 hour job.

I got a 4 wheel alignment at both places. They checked and adjusted the rear. After the rear drivers has like 0.3 camber there is in the yellow. Dude said it wasn't enough for the pull I had anyway. I'm thinking bent front strut or maybe bad bushings. It has to be something that happens under load.

So there is a mark on both cam pulleys and on the flywheel, and marks on the cover and bellhousing to line up. You install the drivers/dizzy side first. Reinstall the crank pulley. Then rotate the engine one rotation. The drivers/dizzy cam mark will be pointing down. I would recommend pulling the alt, ac compressor, battery and ac bracket. Makes getting to the water pump pulley and timing belt cover easier to get to. You won't hurt the motor turning it.

Where can you get the XT6 hubs from?