mcbrat

any progress.....?

http://www.kingsprings.com

for a pushbutton 4WD, when you push the button, you go from 2WD -> 4WD with no center diff, so you are locked front to back for the full time 4WD trans, when you hit the diff lock button you go from 4WD with open center diff -> 4WD locked front to back. (same as pushbutton) The difference is the center diff. the FT4WD tranny doesn't have a 2WD option)

for the steels, the stock soobie nuts will work fine.... for the 15" alloys, you need the special nuts Archemitis refers to. for the 14's, I believe you can use either....

also, they do make a double inlet snorkel adapter

I'm wondering too if it could be the placement, or the cheesy cone on the end.....

I definitely need sport mag alloys centercaps....

got it . thanks. I got in the yellow nd gold vinyl yesterday but not enough time to get all the decals cut until I get back... keep the orders coming....

SOLVED!!!! I have been talking with a couple different people about this to no avail. my carb had 155 mains so I changed them out for 140s, and no change... I was talking to qman and he mentioned having some trouble that ended up being caused by too much turbulence in the air intake, that the carb wasn't able to pull the air in effectively... this triggered a thought in my brain, that this all started with not only a new fuel pump/regulator system, but I changed the air box mounting plate on the carb from holding the normal rectangular weber filter to this: my "snorkel". so tonight I took it off and ran with an open top carb, and she just screamed Problem Solved.... well, at least when I get a plate/filter on there for street use.... I realize the placement of the snorkel/filter isn't good, but it was a quick placement to get it high enough out of waters way.... P.S. Maybe it was that damn Ford part I had in there

it it's an external VR, isn't the voltage coming out gonna be solely dependent on the RPM's then. still sounds bad if it was only at 12V though...

well, I have only 6 here's what I have.... (I left out the obvious one ) (mine is a 1980 GL)

updated the pic....

yeah. said they get 245 hp when they hit the nitrous

here's a quicky..... I'll try to get more detail off my wagon tonight.....

not sure what happened to Moosens' yellow one at Pats... or one like this... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/Literature/brochures/1974-a.jpg I have something that might interest you if you do.....

I believe she got them at a K-Mart. if I get a chance I'll grab the rest of them there.....

probably unweighted.... I always use this.... http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

yeah, they should fit. lots of people run 185/80R13 and they are 24.7" diameter. Archemitis has my old 15" pug alloys and tires. they are 205/65R15 I think. for sure, they are 25.5" diameter.... you might have to do a little "trimming"/"adjusting"

I've got my old brat decals removed, but the glue residue still resides I want to put on one of my new sets for an example shot I tried some oops, but it would take me about 20 hours of rubbing.... I;ve used acetone before, being careful to not remove paint... but don't want to risk it on the brat....

She got a bunch of others that would do a soobie owner proud, but I liked this one the best.....

From the current issue of "4x4 Builder" powered by a 2001 2.5 liter with a custom adapter to a chevy trans...

that was my article. yes, if you are getting new rear ea82 struts, you will need to get the springs too. I just got a pair of complete struts from a junkyard for $70 when I did that....

and be careful with the wood. I had to pull lots of splinters out of my bearings once.... I use a VW axle bung tool (KD 52), that threads onto the axle, and sits squarely on the end of the axle, so when you smack it, the force is directly applied to the axle stub, and not the threads.... cause if you are off just a bit, you can damage the threads.....

bump sort of

make sure your timing is set correctly too.....