mcbrat

ea81's at least, are designed to run 90 or better...... I would assume the same for ea82's but don't know for sure..... the owners manual should say.....

okay. '82 Brat. weber 32/36 at about 4000 RPMs, if I'm on the gas hard, it will start to sputter and choke. if I back off the gas, it's okay. I had a fuel return line hooked up, but I removed it, and made it better, but still not perfect. top speed is 60 on Speedo (about 70 true speed) in 4th or 5th gear. (27" mud tires) fuel pump is a 2.5 - 4 psi suppose it's time for a rebuild?

if it's more obvious while turning, you should check the front wheel bearings. I had all new rotors/pads on, and when I turned the wheel, the rotors/pads would rub.

there will be some decals offered up later this summer

or a bolt on 4 with a few tweaks/grinds/upgrades to get 5"

Normal setting will be all the way down. and yes, with any suspension lift/adjustment in the rear, if you do a lot of pavement driving, they will wear fast on the outside edges....

It was the clips! theset of rear discs I put on, didn't have the clips with them,but luckily my extra set of rear discs had the clips. no place in town had them on hand. should be getting a new set tomorrow for my other set. put 'em on, and nice quiet brakes finally I also got a chance to put on my new Rancho shocks. so I'mpretty much set now for the 4th of July parade....

You have 4 options for lifts in the US. 1. BYB/Ozified kits http://www.ozified.com 2. Mudrat Customs in Eugene 3. BratBull lifts in OR (from other thread) 4. Make it yourself, using instructions from http://www.subarubrat.com I have had 4 soobs (3 brats and a wagon) that were lifted with the BYB/Ozified kits. everything you need is included with them, including the bolts, which are pricey to get.

Like Scott says, how much cutting pounding do you want to do? I'd go at least 8 if putting 31's on.... This had a 4" BYB/Ozified Kit, and I cut the wheel well out all the way around, both front and back, and I had to "re-locate" the front passenger footwells about 3" shorter with a VBFH (sledge) to the rear of the front inner fenderwell. so much so, that it threw the doors out of alignment. where the door hinges bolt to the body, was the back of the front wheel wells! everything forward of it was beat back to fit the 30's.

well, the master cyclinder was leaking between the MC and the booster, so I put a new MC on last night. will test it out this afternoon maybe

here's what Qman's looks like.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=294&sort=1&cat=530&page=1

glad to see you back safely

I've been thinking about this... there's a guy at the end of my street who has a cool yellow justy with some funky 4wd graphics. I'd lift it with blocks that let you bolt on the ea81 driveline stuff with a weber.

I'd get a subscription for sure

you can find direct bolt ins, but they are costly. I was lucky, and found a streetwires 135 amp alt that was on eBay.... I have done searches on high powered alts, but they are usually 300-600 range!!!! a remanned XT6 alt is like $150....

I buy mine from Ed as well. have gotten 3 sets from him...... my vinyl cutter is too small to make 'em....

put in some new tranny mounts. I had a similar issue with my 82 Brat. mounts were intact, but really spongy, and starting to collapse.... an '80 4wd tranny would have been a single range, but still the proper final gear ratio, so you should be okay with that....

I'm not using the FPCU. just wired straight from a IGN switched power source, and have a safety shutoff run off a oil pressure switch. I bypassed the safety switch, and same thing happened.

anybody ever use a Purolator 12S fuel pump. it's 5-7 psi I think. I'm running one of those with a pressure regulator and a weber 32/36. recently I've had the pump (stock location) quit on me 3 times. Each time, it would start back up almost immediately (last night it took a lot longer) I thought maybe ignition module, but the pump actually just quits. can't hear it pumping at all.... any thoughts?

I like that one better than this one....

heh heh. those should stick good

Tom, did you get the covers?

my 85 parts book only shows 2, same as the 4 speed D/R. based off my 85 parts book, I correctly identified the 4-Lo switch, as it works. however the other switches had the wiring broken off, and I have no backup lights at the moment. anybody have a '89 FSM that they can scan the trans drawing, and label the switches?

very nice