mcbrat

nobody needs to see my crappy welding.... the bottom bolt came out of the nut okay, it's just spinning inside the lower shock eye with the spacer frozen to it... I have another bolt to replace that one anyway....

got left rear coilover mount welded in place. need to paint it, and move to the other side... and do the same... after cutting the lower bolt. it's rusted onto the spacer in the bottom of the shock....

My towers were new offeBay for $62 shipped, and I got 3 58" load bars for $30 locally.... I already had SKS cores and Load Warrior basket... I also have 2 High Roller bike racks... might see if I can squeeze on both bike racks along with the basket gotta get the car running first though....

and try not to put too much pressure on the vice grips... I once clamped one shut that was so tight, I pulled a muscle in my neck strainiing to get it shut... but I got it

I got a really good deal on some 58" bars. I figure they are only 5" longer on each side than what I used to have... pics?

they just have 2 right now this '84 and the '70 C-10...

yep. the early soobs had e-brake on front calipers... and you could even flat tow the old ones if you wanted... well, the man trans ones at least

interior panels of silver door are complete... it even has the original red door lock, so they match

sure! top speed of 76 mph in 5th gear...hi/hi though it'll shake you pretty good doing it... the sammy t-case I think needs some work... and the cab noise is loud, as I don't have the shifter boots attached or anything.... ride wise for around town though, it's pretty decent... rougher than a stock soob, but it's worth it that, and the little kids stopping and saying "Wow!" is fun.... They think it's a Trophy truck, and I'm off jumping the Dunes

engine has 106k on it...

It has been secured... sitting in front of my parents barn now.... it's obviously more rusted than before, but interior is really clean. depending on how bad the rust is, I may try and get it rolling again....

I'm gonna re-use my gray upper, plus I have a bunch of spares just hanging around

Guido is mad at the sawzall

looks like no cheap soobies for a while... crusher is paying $300 for cars right now. Getting this one for $250....

yes I am... http://www.indysworld.com/vehicles/1982-brat-red/82redbrat.html or the forum thread.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=92202 The mud stuff I do, I'll keep the silver door on... I added another shot above too with the Kid messing around... and I need to find my spare door panels for the inside of the silver door yet....

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110563

I carry a spare with me, and if the column ones has problems, I disconnect at the plug, plug in the spare, and hold it in my hand while starting...

:banana: so I thought I'd do some work today on my Red Brat.... and since I smashed up the door pretty good, it was a goner anyway... Filling in the gap with some 2x4s the inside door opener broke, so I reused some parts to utilize the exterior door handle opener, but created a push button basically to open it... then I put some rubber bed mat material on it. Just push down for the opener still, it's just hidden beneath the rubber... and you can see the little hole I made for the lock mechanism too, so it can still lock like normal... I also beat out the B pillar area too... Then I took it off, and put on a silver door for daily driving...

so I put some '84 style mirrors on it tonight, and started fabbing up the rear ea82 coilover mounts got them bent to shape, and captive nuts welded on the back... figured out placement where new brackets will be welded into the exisitng support...

the ignition switch does not need to be grounded. none of the wires going to it are ground wires, and the housing does not need to be grounded either...

depends on how much of an angle, and how long the driveshafts are. my sammy t-case is clocked pretty far for clearance and better alignment. luckily the shifter pulls out like a GM ones and is reversible, so even with the clocking, the shifter is properly positioned.

the 5 d/r just wouldn't like the jarring power put to it with each shift, if you were at speed. by adding a t-case behind it, you are moving the stress away from the trans. especially if you gear down the axles or t-case....

actually, where the seatbelts bolt in, is re-inforced some, and the factory roll bar kits came with large thick washers to put below the bed as well. just like aftermarket seatbelts do. the proper mounting location for the rear legs should be to have a bolt go through the rear shock mount support, as that is structurally re-inforced too.

for the events we have around here, if you put a diff body on a frame that wasn't built to handle the weight of the driveline/frame in a rollover, we require a cage. Example: Chevy Luv body on a 1-Ton frame/axles...

no go for me that weekend.