nipper

Here is an idea. Sometimes the contacts get ditry and oxidize. Next time it happens, confirm the code. Go to the TCU and ECU. Remove and re connect the main connectors. Usually just doing that will clean them, and that may solve the problem. nipper

This is the third dealer ive seen charging an insane amount of money for a flush. 99.00 tops for a flush, 79.00 is a good price. What is a "shudder guard", the price alone should make you shudder. Just a plain ol flush like said before. nipper

That was my educated guess. Now the problem with that is how does it communicate with it. Communication is from the TCU to the ECU. the problem can be an ECU issue. nipper

OK give us more details. Dont just go throwing parts at it. How many miles? When was the last time the car had a timing belt change. Get a vacume gauge , it will tell us many things about the flow of gasses, and the state of the engine. When was the last time an O2 sensor was replaced? nipper

Diesels are a differnt animal GD, but yes those are 100% rebuildable. I have rebuilt them too, just talking gasoline didnt think it was relevant. nipper

wiat for the few sooby techs to get off work :-p sheesh i can take an educated guess as to the function, but now how to resolve it. nipper

Whne your clutch starts to grab to the point that you cant get a smooth engagement, and the pedal is the proper height, thats when the TO bearing is finally shot. At 285,000 miles, when was the last time the car had a clutch? nipper

Well you had an issue. You dont do an injector cleaning just for the heck of it. Some injectors are rebuildable, some arent worth the labor to rebuild them http://www.fuelinjectioncorp.com/products/injectors.php If the coil inst replaced, then having a FI rebuilt is useless. nipper

MEchanical ones operate differntly then viscous. Mechanical units are always locked, so to speak. The inertia of the axles running at differnt speeds during a turn over-ride the clutches to make them disengage. nipper

no if the issue clears up on its own, the light will not re-occure. nipper

check the main pully/vibration damper. Make sure its NOT wobbling. Sometimes things have to get worse in order to diagnose them. I have a theory about CV joints/ vibaruion ill share another day, back hurts too much right now to type a lot. nipper

tranny fluid, at 180.00 is a rip off. Most shops charge 99.00 for it. Dont let them flush a thing. Tranny flush is just you draining, filling, driving around the block, and repeating three or four times. There is nothing there you cant do yourself, and the brake fluid and PS fluid doesnt have to be done. nipper

Lets rule out the big nasty first. Do some tight ciricles and see if tyhe car will move under its own power smoothly. This will tell us if this is a "fix it now" or we need to investigate it a bit more. Torque bind gets more expensive the more you drive the car. The other popular reason for the light is a bad tranny temp sensor. There is a procedure here on how to pull the codes from the tranny someplace. nipper

Get a vacume gauge, that will tell you if the cat is clogged up. If your not in an emissions state you can degut the cat with no engine performance issues. You may get a CEL as the downstream o2 sensor is going to see dirtier exhaust then it expects. nipper

Let them change the plugs when the heads are OUT of the car. Don't let them talk you into a huge labor charge for it. Subaru recomends ps and brake fluid "flush" every 3 years. Those two are over 100.00 each. i never change PS fluid. Brake fluid i only do when the brakes are serviced. Some MFG say the fluid is good for the life of the car. If you are the kind that worry about fluid changes, you do the turkey baster method. Tranny flush is just fresh fluid in the tranny, nothing else. It has to be flushed to get it all out. If the dealer is offering a chemical flush, he is not doing a recomended subaru service, as last i checked, subaru does not condone chemical flushes. 22 around town is about right. I get 19-21 local 26 highway. SO I guess i shouldnt mention muffler bearings then nipper

Either way you have a bad LSD. This is a viscous LSD i think, which means the viscous part and clutches are sealed. Nothing you can do can change that fact. If it was the disc clutch type, you can try some additives, but i dont think soobies had those. nipper

Well dont expect the idlers to last more then one timing belt change. If you have the originals at the 2nd belt change, swap them out. If you dont have an interfernce engine you can wait untill you have to call a tow truck if you want. Also dont forget your cam main and oil pump seals. They wont make it to the second belt. Water pumps can make it if you change the coolant every 3/36000 miles. nipper PS I dont trust ebay stuff for interfernce engines.

Er um, timing belt yes. Fluid flush NO. First off they have to drain the coolling system to replace the head gaskets. They are trying to make "found money" off you. You wont need to do the coolant flush. Tranny you can do yourself. Differentials you can do yourself. Power steering fluid can be done with a turkey baster. Brake fluid can be done with a turkey baster (not the same as the PS fluid). They figure some how they will get cash out of you. BTW were they going to use synthetic or dyno blinker fluid? nipper

Looks like the gears came from the back country of West Virginia nipper

You can actually get generic CV boot clamps at an autoparts store. At least you used to. Hose clamps can workthemselves loos as they arent made for those forces. nipper

Sometimes when one tire gets a little low in airp pressure i get this vibration. (just happened today) nipper

did for me on the desktop, not the laptop. nipper

My other halfs Honda CRV with 220,000 miles on it does the same thing. Both float switches are made by the same company. If it has never been done, flush the brake fluid (never a bad thing) and if it still does it, replace the switch. Otherwise it's just an old car quirk. nipper

There is not a lot out there. There is a good justy board, i dont have the link right now, which may help. One of the cheaper things to do is replace the tired bushings with stiffer ones. This may take a little doing to find, as you will have to go by dimensions and not model. nipper

A vague vibration can be hard to find. When was the last time the tranny fluid was changed? This might help. Chaining ther tranny fluid can clear up some weird issues that cant be explained. You are also due for a timing belt. If you are absoloutly sure this is an engine vibration and not a driveline vibration, check the tranny and engine mounts. If your not sure, check the CV joints, and carrier bearing and universal joints. nipper