nipper

where is this terminal cancer on the car? nipper

The next step is to be in the trunk with a flashlight. Go to a do it yoursle car wash. Have a friend spray the car and look for water. You may also have a leaking rear window. nipper

Has anyone inspected the exhaust system hangers? nipper

Check your body drain holes and make sure they are open. Check the tail light gaskets. nipper

This is easy. You have a leak. You have to take it someplace and have the leak repaired. Don't jump the pressure switch as you will damage the compressor. nipper

Or IQ tests nipper

What is the specific code? nipper

If i remeber correctly, you cant swap left to right. I think almost any of them from 95-99 and maybe even newer will fit. Remember these are giant leggos nipper

there are just soooooooooooooooooooooo many bad jokes i can make right now.... :-p nipper

Try this http://www.drivetrain.com/remco.html nipper

Frnt main seal, and if the water pump is original now is the time to replace it. Valve cover gaskets. Now would be a good time to replace the spark plugs too (much easier with the engine out of the car). Don't forget to reseal the oil pump while you have it all there in front of you. Also a new T-stat is advised. Flush out the radiator after you drain the cooling system, otherwise antifreeze + oil + air = gunk. nipper

Some sensors take time to warm up, like O2 sensors with heaters built into them. Others take a few revolutions to read all the data. Others need something to flow over them. or for things to get pressurized. In a crank situation, sesnors have not had time to start functioning, or have no data to read. The best they can do is tell you if a sensor is low or high (shorted or open), but even then, the CEL won't come on till the car is started. In order to store a code, the sensor has to fail X number of times in X amount of time. This is done to avoid false failures. When the car is restarted, the previous codes (depending on what they were) may be erased. Not all codes are stored between starts. nipper

Now THIS is what i consider valid data on an engine mod http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1187722 drool

There is the axle disconnects that they have for towing cars behind motorhomes. It disconnects one axle, and does it all from the comfort of the drivers seat. nipper

To replace the pump, 1st step is to remove the transmission. 2nd step is to dissassemble the front of the tranny. Third is to try and actually find a pump. There is penny wise and dollar foolish. Trying to rebuild a tranny yourself is dollar foolish when used ones are available, especially considering you need a differnt torque converter since this one may be full of bits. Good luck, i'm unsubscribing from this thread. nipper

When the pump goes bad, it puts metail particles throughout the hydrualic system, including the torque converter and radiator cooler. Its just much easier to get a used tranny. nipper

Dont bother dropping the pan, it's done. Your front pump is shot. nipper

nope Engine has to run in order for it to collect codes, otherwise all the senosrs would come back as failed. DOuble check all your electrical connections. Unplug and plug them all together. nipper

olive oil....

you dont wuv me ..... im going to the outback boards.... waaaaaaaaaaaaaa Well there is another possability, that the flex plat snapped. Yes idle would be rougher since all this stuff is copnnected to the engine directly and since its busticated can be throwing things out of balance, or making a drag. The flex plate torque converter and front pump are all directly connected to the engine. nipper

i am SO not driving behind you :-p nipper

Thats why you dont copy off an old key. The peaks are worn off the old key, and without those the tumblers wont work. nipper

mine doesnt time out, i dont like it when they time out. Careful Andy, ill send a hit-deer after you

This is an OBDI so yes you can pull the codes without a code reader. nipper