nipper

no but 1997 legacys did, and its a direct swap in that is done quite a lot. nipper

Torsen is in the center only, i thought, so there for it always has a load. http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/traction/tech_traction_4wd_2.htm nipper

Any chance of sticking some sort of conventiona air cleaner can on it. Then you can use the hot air intake stove pipe to avoid icing in winter. nipper

Air filters dont vary much, except for the high flow or "add 10 hp" filters. There is a link someplace with someone who did real scientific comparisons on air filter brands, and the only ones that varied a great deal were the high flow air filters. the link is buried in here some place, you may find it on a search. nipper

Yes thats the original color. It is "Sidney Pearl Blue" available only on the limited. Blu says thanks for the compliment nipper

Can be a clogged radiator in your case. nipper

Also torsen diff's are not really good for slick conditions, as they need traction on both wheels to operate. nipper

I'm hoping now that Blu has a taste for deer meat, he wont go hunting them down i didnt get to keep the deer, as it wasnt a safe place to stop. nipper

I may be able to help there, whats a good email addy for you? Prvt me if you wish. nipper

No but its impossible to blame a bad part for after 120,000 miles. Many cars blow HG's over that age, and it is not blamed on design. If you use that criteria, then anything that fails over 100,000 miles is a bad design. Also its still not 100% proven that it is a desighn issue, as opposed to a cleanliness issue, an assembly issue, or a bad run of head gaskets. For instance, Dodge neon, which is running at 100% failure rate (at about 60K), is a bad design. I am sorry but if it made it past 120,000 miles, its not a bad design. nipper

Wow, thats so clean and simple and pure. nipper

1997 OBW Blu's first engine went 191,000 miles, then threw a connecting rod. The HG was fine. Any engine over 120,000 that blows a HG is racked up to age. nipper

If i knew he was going to be so breathtaking, i would have paid them another 600.00 for the "unrelated damage" as the adjuster called it (we call it parking lot dings). nipper

i am tyring to source one may have to wait till Jan. nipper

I've had 5 subarus (from 1981 my - 1998my ), never had to use ramps yet. Just put the coolant in slowly to allow the air to be displaced. nipper

Before deer add one deer spend 2800.00 (plus 500.00 deductable and Blu is beutiful again http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x234/nipper-dawg/?action=view&current=DSC01118.jpg and im happy the staypuff masrhmellow truck has returned to its nest. nipper PS couldnt resist

Check your coolant level first. There is only one way the air in the system sound can get worse, and it aint pretty. Top off the coolant (slowly pour it in) with the engine hot, running, and warmed up (thermostat open). Of course remove the cap to the radiator with the engine cold. nipper PS bubbles bad.

two where did he get it? also what exactly is the code

Couple of questions, do you have any internal heat (gets cold up in Maine). Also electric motors run more effeciently at higher rpms then lower, have you tried using the lower gears more then the higher. We need more pics to see where everything is i have been wanbting to do this for a long long time nipper

www.cars101.com nipper

Maybe you just need a new gas cap? nipper

Lets start even more basic. subarus require subaru t-stats. So replace it with an oe stat, and while your at it get a new cap. one of the many ways to fill a cooling system Open the air bleed valve. start the engine. fill the cooling system SLOWLY with pre-mix. wait for the t-stat to open (the coolant will surge out of the radiator) slowly finish filling the radiator. Put cap on radiator (close bleed valve), drive around block. Make sure the overflow is filled to the hot line. let car cool off. Check coolant level when cold. Another method is to do this with the car nose on ramps.

If you changed them, then there should be clean spots as to where the choke was screwed down for so many years nipper

There is a thing called a choke-pull off assy. This opens the choke as soon as the car starts to allow some air in. Its a little vac diaphram attached to the chike plate. Check to make sure its working. Choke adjust is very easy. When the car is cold, adjust the choke plate so that it just closes. Usually if anything is wrong its the CPA. nipper

You dont want to use the speed sensors. Not only can you affect your spedo, but if the ECU sees that the drivelines are not catching up to each other, it may stop trying to correct the speed differnce between front and rear to keep from overheating. I know it will do this at 50 mph (ie broken front CV joint), but even in that scenario you still have spinning output shafts front and rear. This threshold is unknown. You may aslo affect transmission shiftpoints. this is really an unknown area. It would be easier to just directly control the solenoid. nipper