nipper

PCV thats carbon from combustion which is normal. How many miles are on this engine. If the seasons changed on this oil change (60's to 30's) you can get condensation. How tight does the oil fill cap seal? Does the old PCV rattle when shaken? Can you blow through both ends? If its not closing, it can draw fresh air into the crankase and cause what your seeing. How old is your t-stat? nipper

overcharging altenator can cause what i described too. nipper

There are no aftermarket kits aproved by the EPA for use in the USA. As you can see from the other LPG post, its available in europe. If you are in a state here that is a real prig with emissions, you may have a problem getting inspected. nipper

It's so nice to see us all agree nipper

I have same problem with dentists. nipper

good luck, im unsubscribing from this thread, as i told you how to check the air mix door. nipper

ok here we go The duty C cycles on and off (hence the term duty). Another factor in this is a internal spool valve in the tranny that is hydraulically controlled. A subaru (auto for this discussion) varies the torque split from 10/90 to 50/50. You get TCU controlled 50/50 at full throttle, revers and Low. At TCU 50/50 the solenoid is still pulsed, to release the torque bind so you can steer the car. To activate FWD the TCU tells the Duty C to stay energized, and dumps all the pressure to the clutch pack. This is done with the fuse. To manually activate 50/50 full lock, you are disconnecting the solenoid from the TCU. This will give you 4wd like a 1950's willy jeep. This will be good on slick surfaces, but on blacktop will tear the clutchpack apart. There is some slip designed into the clutchpack, but not enough to handle full lock. The holy grail would be to go to full 50/50 split on demand just like the TCU does. This would be the best of both worlds. nipper

A battery is a bunch of plates. As a battery ages, it sheds materials off the plates. Eventually that material can short out the plates and the battery wont hold a charge or allow the car to be jumped. How old is the battery. You may need an altenator too, as the shorted plates can kill an altenator. Have you tried leaving the jumper cables on the car for ten minutes, then trying to start it. nipper

Subaru heaters use a mixing door. This mixes hot and cold air to give you the temp that you want. The good side to this is that its simple, the bad side is that it is hard sometimes to get a good temp (the controller has a heat spot. Now since you see the cable moving the arm of the mixing door, disconnect that cable and move the arm by hand. There are a few possabilities here. One is that the cable is out of adjustment and not moving the door enough. This can be due to a broken or missing retaining clamp on the cable housing at either end of the cable. The cable should move as soon as the handle moves. Next if you move the lever under the dash by hand, you should be able to hear the door "thunk" inside the heater box. Subarus have used cables for temp, and vacume motors (or newer subarus electric motors) to control direction of the air. If you can move the air from heat to def to dash then those are fine. By default if those doors have a issue the car goes to defrost only mode. Now you say the heater core gets hot, but how can you tell? The inlet and outlet hose is not going to tell you. What feels hot to the hand, may not be hot enough to produce heat. Also when was the last time the system was flushed and serviced? I am sorry about not reading your post like you think, but i DID read it, and have learned in 20 years to ask direct questions, as sometimes people leave out details. Like i said before, how is the cooling system?

OK here we go. In theory if you can figure out the solenoid cycling time for 50/50 torque split, then you can make a controller that simulates that command from the ECU. Then in theory its just another step to make it variable so that you wont damage the clutch pack, but still will have the same 50/50 split that you get with full throttle. and then i can tell grossgary :-p heheheh nipper

well DOES it reach operating temperiture? how old is the water pump. You can't just say no and leave it at that otherwise we cant help you. Tell us what you HAVE done to find the problem. We arent mind readers nipper

Ah yes the holy grail we have been looking for. A circuit that will reset the system when X speed is reached (usually 20-25 mph). nipper

Replace the PCV valve. Change the oil more frequently. Same with the air filter. Otherwise its normal, but something you can reduce by doing more frequent oil changes. The engine oil takes two to three times longer to heat up then the coolant does. What is happeneing is the oil isnt getting hot enough on your short trip to burn off condensation. nipper

Drive an old car, it will have faults. There are a few ways that you can loose heat. 1- The heater control cable has come off the lever at the heater box. It should be obvious to see if you look under the passenger dash side of the car. 2- Does the engine reach operating temperiture. If it doesnt the t-stat may be stuck open. A bad radiator cap may contribute to it. 3- The most hideous, low coolant level. One can be its just low, on the bad side it can be a head gasket. I'm voitng for #1 nipper

Thats what i use too. nipper

But remember to shut it disengage it when your not off road, otherwise you can destroy your clutchpack. nipper

Transfer cases come in many forms, and yes some are already AWD or full time 4wd. nipper

Well when you replace a clutch you replace the disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and replace/resurface the flywheel, so even though you arent doing some of those parts any favors, they normally get replaced anyway. Everything else on your list your not hurting. Muffler bearings and blinker fluid will be fine. It may be time to switch to to winter air in the tires though nipper

Or uo can convert a water cooled vanagon to sooby power, as that would take care of the plumbing part. There is a subaru powered vanagon list on yahoo if your really curious. nipper

Yes thats called, get this "clutch slip" you need a new clutch (and dont reuse the throw out bearing clips, get new ones). nipper

Replace. Even professional machine shops shudder at rebuilding a rack, when its just so much easier to get a used one. and cheaper. nipper

well maybe if you set a match to it, but that may nor be good for the car nipper

All subarus are mechanically front wheel drive cars. You can not disconnect the FWD and choose RWD at will without HUGE and expensive (and maybe impossible) modifications. Duty C life is usually starts getting iffy over 150,000 miles, and clutch packs the same. It really depends upon how often the car has run on a flat, and how long the tranny fluid went between changes. Putting the FWD fuse in the car after getting TB is basically a "i cant make it worse" approach. Cinse odds are you have to replace the clutch pack, the Duty C solenoid is right there, you replace that too when the tranny comes apart. Its rare to replace the failed duty C and not need to replace the clutch pack, since most people keep driving with TB after the flashing tranny light appears, and ruin thier clutches. Torque bind is not just an internal clutch issue, but a huge saftey issue. When TB gets really bad, its hard to turn the steering wheel. WIthout the slip in the driveline to safley manuver the car, on a rain slick road, it is possible to have the car not go where you point it, if a wheel looses traction. Also automatics do not have a center differnential, they have a electroniclly controlled clutch pack. nipper

This stuff has sort of gotten like all the chemical heavy "new and improved" hyper expensive sprays that decarbon the engine. All this fancy stuff when plain old water works just as well. For mold, dont bother with the other stuff fropm autozone or anywhere else. Just get lysol or something a kin to it on sale and use that. Thats what has been used since the 1960's, and it still works great. Not picking on you, just tired of newer being better (and usually more expensive). Besides lysol can be found anywhere. nipper

YAY you didnt do like i did, and proceed to blow up two of those suckers. nipper