nipper

In modern cars, when altenators die, they backfeed so the brake light comes on along with the battery light. Either buy the used ALT here, or get one cheaply from one of the on line suppliers. If you buy one from a store, If you pay more then 68.00 for it, they are ripping you off and selling you the wrong alt https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html (plus 50.00 core charge and shipping) Its not uncommon for them to sell an imprezza alt for a legacy. It doesnt work. nipper

pennsylvania? nipper

hehehe i just got home. wed/thur is my weekend, when i get to see the other half. Sadly i get to see the other half in New Jersey (and we all know how NY'ers love NJ ) nipper

ok lets back up a bit. there is an illumination relay that operates the parking lights. ANother possability is a bad combination switch. The main switch grounds out the coil for the illumination relay. The current then goes through the parking light switch, to the 10 amp fuse, then gets distrubuted to all the marker lights. What I would do is find the 10 amp fuse and pull it. With the switch off, there should be no voltage on either side of the fuse. Turn on the switch. Now there whould be voltage at one side of the fuse (with the car on of course). FYI: If the parking light switch is "on", the illumination relay is bypassed, and the parking lights will come on. So you have a bad illumination Relay. (I need to start traveleing with my haynes manual it seems so I can answer these things quicker). nipper

That sounds like a fuse, check at the fuse block first. Does the virgin switch on top of the steering column operate? nipper

All cars with windows that go up and down have window regulators. Thats what makes them go up and down. A power one just means it has a motor. Auto up and down cant be disconnected, as it is built into the switch. Replace the master switch with one from a junkyard and that should solve that issue. nipper

You dont need any of that. All you need is an oil change (which you did). Plugs and wires are good for 100,000 miles. Fuel injector cleaning, as far as im concerned never, or untill you have a problem. Tranny fluid flush ONLY. DO NOT DROP THE PAN. You dont need the screen (ever), and more pans leak when they are reinstalled. Differential fluid you can have done. Coolant flush you can do. Ful inspection, trust me, if something was wrong with the car they would have said so. Don't go to this dealer anymore, he's trying to nickle and dime you to death. Every time the car goes on a lift it gets inspected. Its not like hes going to let you leave with bad brakes. nipper

I was prepared to remove the bumper skin adn do it properly, but i figured, lets see what happens. I drilled holes two sizes smaller then self tapping screws supplied. I drove them in, being careful not to go apesh*t whenm tightening them. They have been there for 2 years now and are nice and tight. nipper

The current sensing is built into the switch. The motor is just a motor. I am voting for a problem with the master controlled (drivers door switch). We are talking about the auto down feature? nipper

It is a very straight forward swap. I am going to suggest one thing, replace the belt also. Always a good thing to do. nipper

And carry jumper cables, a good set, not the 9,99 set. nipper

Talk to a supervisor whenever you have a issue at DMV with paperwork. They can usually expedite things. nipper

nipper

there are a few reasons this can happen. We ruled out trashing. Sometimes mfg defects happen, thats thy there are warrenties. A bad rear main seal, a bad transmission seal, a clutch that wont fully release, all possible reasons. nipper

i dont see anything there that is earth shattering. You can get 1-3 better mpg by making sure your brain is attached to your right foot (or the way things are going your wallet). This is BS How does the catalyst work?Refineries cannot remove many poorly performing molecules to make a more ideal fuel. In addition, once fuel leaves the refinery or is stored it is subject to attack by oxygen, ozone, and microorganisms (bacteria, yeast, and mold) that grow in the fuel. All these processes degrade the fuel to make a poorer product that prevents engines from performing at optimum levels. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst reformulates fuel prior to combustion on board the vehicle, preventing oxygen and most diseases from attacking the fuel and reversing any degradation that may have occurred prior to the fuel being introduced to the vehicle. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst assists the combustion process by insuring that fuel is highly uniform, potent, consistent, and stable. Considering the millions that are spent in fuel research, dont you think that a refiner or a gas station would put a 200.00 screw on element to protect them from bad gas claims? Also if the yeast part was true, that stuff would be in the bottom of your fuel tank, since no one uses 100% of the fuel in thier tank. They do not show any Gallons per hour usage on their tests, so they cant prove the dismal mpg gains. Spend 200.00 to save money. Do the math, on a 2mpg gain per tank (if that can be proven, you would save 151.00 a year (using 2.75 a gallon and 20/22mpg). That can be done with slightly chainging your driving habits (for free) Q. Why don't the OEMs like GM, Chrysler, Ford, Cat., Detroit, etc. implement the Fitch Fuel Catalyst on the cars right from the assembly line?The OEMs don't typically add parts to the assembly line unless it saves money or they are required to add because of specific regulations. OEMs must meet certain standards set forth by the EPA and other regulatory organizations. When determining MPG window sticker numbers, the EPA requires the automotive OEMs to test on a certified fuel such as Indolene. These purest certified fuels are too expensive to mass produce and are not equivalent to what consumers purchase at the pump. All EPA MPG type test are done with INDOLENE CLEAR instead of PUMP GASOLINE to avoid the extremely wide variations in sold at the pump gasoline. This is a very special custom fuel made for car manufacturers to test MPG and engine power output, emission etc. Unfortunately INDOLENE CLEAR only functions in a narrow 68-80F temperature range so it cannot be used outside the lab. In lab conditions it performs the same as gasoline. This is standard procedure to have any consistancy in any test. This way the test is repeatable no matter who does it. Now most car companies also do track testing, and use many differnt kinds of fuels from refineries. With all the bragging rights going on about gas mileage, I seriously doubt that paragraph is true. Everyone is looking for the maximum mpg they can get out of a vehical and have it still be drivable. This is like a 200.00 can of chicken soup, it cant hurt anything but your wallet. nipper

Who me? Mine is under the passenger seat. The drivers seat has the blu-tooth stereo module. nipper

Actually he has the space saver spare tire. I dont know i like his behind the seat are better. It can always be removed if you need to fold down the seats (I usually just need to fold down one). Yours i loose too much floor to cargo cover space. Since i am feeling better and need a projecy, I may look at the pocket in the side of the car again. nipper

We talked of this a while back, and i didnt install one since i am happy with my setup right now. The power amp cured my problems. But for those who want ideas on where to put subwoofers on an wagon http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10110 nipper

As was said in the other thread, if you have no flow out of the hose at the radiator the front pump is shot. Also since the clutch material and seals is not designed for diff oil, they are all prbbly wiped out. If your going to do all the work to replace the pump (which is a lot) just replace the transmission. nipper

YES! nipper

So whats happening, you depress the clutch, the slave extends against the clutch fork. The clutch fork moves with the cylinder. If that is true, then the clutch should be disengaging to some degree. Have somone stand on the clutch pedal, and watch what happens at the fork. Does the fork move back to its engaged postion (IE master not holding pressure). Another possability is that the clips that hold on the throw out bearing are broken (especially if they were reused). nipper

Well for now i have used my nice mil spec saftey wire and its holding very very well. i just hate having anything gerryrigged if i can avoid it. Home depot and Lowes here are Ok, but ACE is new. i havent been impressed yet with them, but they look like they have a healthy hardware collection. On a related note, my first attempt to do surgery isnt half bad for a practice run. Looks fairly easy to move the heater control (how did God make the heavans and the earth without a dremel i will never know). i'm just sort of running out of drive to do things, oh the joy of shorter days. nipper

It's always the penny parts that screw you up. There is a circlip that holds the temp control cable in place on the heater control. Well in the process of relocating the heater control, i dropped it, and not its lost to never never land. i'm an idiot anyone have one of these babies floating around, or something that can take its place? nipper

Take the head to a machine shop. They can pressure test it and check for cracks etc. Is the cross hatch pattern still on the cylinder walls? nipper

like i said its been a while Can you do a leak down test on the cylinders. Get the valves closed , note where the piston ends up, and pressurize the cylinder. Have you done a wet/dry test? Are there any bubbles in the coolant? nipper