Aluxes

So Im upgrading my front and rear sway bars. 22mm. Also upgrading to Perrin rear endlinks. I have the rear bar and endlinks in place but there is a size-able gap between the top of the endlink and the sway bar. The slack is only on one side, cause the other side is flush. Do I need bushings on the top also? IIRC Perrin told me that they were only required on the bottom. Here are some pics.

I found a set of 4 KYB struts on Amazon for 240.00. Check there.

I use Castrol synthetic 0w40 year around in my 97 Impreza OBS. It runs awesome, it doesnt burn any oil, I never have to add any oil between changes and I go about 6000 miles using a K&N oil filter. Plus the engine has 271,xxx miles. I commute a round trip of about 1000 miles every 2-3 weeks, plus my daily driving when at home.

No sunroof. The windows were getting a little fogged up but mostly because the carpet was drenched and the windows were up when it was evaporating. Its just water no coolant. Hope its not a heater core!! I think Ill wait till the carpet is dry, and there is no more rain. Then check if the carpet is wet. Thanks for the advice.

The passenger side floor carpet on my 97 imp obs is soaked. I looked up under the dash and I saw a few water drops hanging, obviously where the water is coming from. The water looked clear, didnt look like antifreeze in it. It has been raining like a sob here for weeks. Wondering if I have an outside leak. My heater blows hot air just fine no problems. Is there a definite sign to look for indicating the heatercore is going/bad? Thanks!

I have not omitted the rear cat yet, but I did move the rear cat O2, but have had no issues with it for the last 150 miles.The car runs a lot better after the ECU swap, even sounds different. Muffler shop said I can bring in the old cat pipe and they can make a straight pipe I can bolt right in, they just cant do it themselves. My car does not have an EGR, just a plate bolted on the manifold.

Hey bratman I have a question, maybe you can answer. I have swapped the 97 ej22 ecu for a 97 ej25d ecu. It runs great!! But now the check engine light is on so I hooked up the code reader and got the code for egr PO402. I have a manual....I dont have an egr correct? Did I get the wrong ecu?

Yea my set up sounds pretty good. I didnt feel like your post was provoking at all. Thanks for the tips. Still gonna try out the spark plug mod, just dont have time right now. But soon!! Thanks again for the tips.

My sub amp is an MTX class D mono block amp, its 1500w peak. It has 3 fuses but I dont remember the rating. 25 or 30. Its powering 3 10" MTX woofers in a sealed enclosure with a 2 ohm load. My smaller amp is an Alpine 160w amp powering an MTX component set. Capacitor, 4 gauge wiring, gold plated connects and upgraded battery terminals. As for the ecu I think you want to use 97-99 Legacy Outback.

Its a definite improvement in my case. I got the ecu from a 97 legacy outback, for the ej25D.

Yea I am running a fairly large sub woofer amp, 1500w, and a smaller amp for the door speakers. I dont get a drop in idle or a slight dimming of the lights when i turn my fan on high. Cant wait to take the car on a road trip to see the improvements in power and fuel mileage.

So I got the EJ25D ecu, installed it. At first when I started it there was a slight hesitation when barely touching the throttle, but after a few minutes it went away. Took it out for a test drive and WOW!!! What a difference! Revs quicker and smoother and pulls a lot harder. Low end torque is definitely better too! Also added a new 140 amp alternator and a grounding kit from Flex innovations, which by the way is very good quality. Plus they supplied me a free kit for measuring out my car which they didnt have a kit for. Anyways thanks again 86Bratman for the tip on using the 2.5 ecu.

Hmmm, yea I followed the instructions on the can for curing the parts on the vehicle. I also waited a few hours between each coat and the headers were off the vehicle for over a week. I think the VHT just sucks.

The local Subaru dealership where I live got me an Exedy lightweight flywheel, the 12 lb one, for way cheaper than anywhere on line. They also got me what they called a Subaru severe duty clutch. I like it.

Hey wondering what, if any, type of coating or paint is used with good results on headers. I have a nice pair of EL headers that I primed and painted with VHT header paint and it sucks rump roast!! After the first time it rained all the paint peeled off. So I took them off spent most of a day re-sanding, priming, and painting all over again. Guess what....it rained again.....guess what.....I get to do it all over again Any suggestions on something different to use?

Hmmm the link wont work either way. Ill search amazon and see what i come up with. Thanks!! I was thinking about unbolting the second cat pipe, cause its direct fit, taking that in to the muffler shop and see if they can make me a pipe with flanges to bolt into place. Tell them its for my "track car"

I didnt get to it this weekend, too many other car things took up my time. Ill be out of town for the next two weeks, but will try to get to it after. Sounds fun!

Would that be considered a downpipe? Or would best be to go to a muffler shop?

Alright Fairtax thanks!!

Doing some maintenance on my 97 Imp OBS and had the headers off. Noticed the exhaust valves looked pretty white,l dont think they should look like this.Here are some pics. Am I running lean? Then there is this. Im not sure of the technical term but, it is where the passenger side A-arm connects to the frame. It looks loose. Not like the drivers side. Should I be concerned about this, or is it normal? If not how do I fix? Just tighten it up? Thanks!!

Ok so it worked! Moved the rear o2 up to the rear bung in the front Magnaflow cat. If its still good after a few hundred miles ill get a straight pipe to replace the rear cat.

This link will give you info on the gear ratio. https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ia75cro4n1deou/TransmissionIDChart_Public.pdf

Thanks Rooster2. Ill take it back to the dealer.

I took my 97 OBS into the dealer for a right rear wheel bearing replacement. The drum was so worn that the mechanic couldnt get the drum off cause the shoes wouldnt retract enough. So i had to have the rear brakes replaced too. Put about 150 miles on the car and the right rear brake is now making a click, click, click sound when I apply the brakes. No sound on acceleration, or turning. Seems to stop fine. Any ideas. When I take it back to the dealer would be good to at least have an idea what might be wrong.

Yes Im using 2.2 heads w/ the Delta 200's and the hi-rpm spring set from Paeco. Im also going to do some light porting and matching on the exhaust side. Ill be using Grimmspeed phenolics also. I think the aluminum retainers will probably be fine. Even if I can rev to 7500 its not like I will do it often. Plus im going off what Delta told me the cam is good up to. More just want to match the valve train with the cams. Im also using a 2.5 ecu for a higher rev limiter.