reedbj40

Both grossgary and l75eya were accurate. A clogged filter was the culprit. Thanks to all you guys for your advice. I love this forum. It helps keep my old soob on the road.

Ok. I wasn't sure if something might do that up there, it just seemed to be making a bit of noise in that area when I had someone turn the key. I'll have to check my ground wires. I have had issues with bad grounds in other cars.

The damage was very minimal. The grille cracked and the hood dented just slightly. The car is obviously not showroom new, but has ran me very well for 3 years and has relatively low mileage (140000). I do feel that the issue is related to the impact due to the fact that just after it, the car stalled and would not run afterwards. I have checked fuses. I don't see any obstructions in the air intake, and MAF sensor connection appears good as well. It starts, runs for about 5 sec, then stalls.

Hey everybody, Unfortunately, last night, I hit a deer with my '90 Loyale wagon. Thankfully it was a light hit, but it stalled not long after I hit it, and now it will start and immediately stall. It appears to be fuel related. I can still hear the pump turn on when I turn the key, but something up by the throttle body makes an electrical 'sparking' noise when I try to start it. It seems to be something controlling the pump. Any ideas on what it could be?

Thanks Gloyale, My thoughts were to change out the stock pushbutton with an on/off toggle. I do feel that it is a switch issue due to how it "tries" to shut back off when i push the button to disengage it, but it takes several tries to get it disengaged. Then it generally engages again after a short time. I'll know for sure today.

Thanks, that's a great reference link. I'll have to see what I can find out there.

It isn't a dual range, just push button, and it is engaging. if I'm not mistaken, the push button should stay in slightly while engaged in 4wd, shouldn't it? Has anyone ever replaced it with a toggle?

I've been having an issue for the last couple of days with my push-button 4wd on my 1990 Loyale wagon. My 4wd just randomly kicks on while driving. If I am able to get it to go back off, it seems to be right back on again most times when I start the car. It seems to me like a switch issue, but I'd like to ask before I buy parts.

What other options are out there for 13" rims for a Loyale? I have see pug rims for sale on here, but i was just wondering if any other 4-bolt rims were compatable.

Hey guys! My brother is having some issues with his compressor clutch on his forester and I was wondering if we could switch the compressor clutch with a spare one I have from an 02 Legacy gt. I have no idea if they are compatable, i was hoping that someone here might. I know they are able to be replaced without replacing the entire compressor. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hey guys! My brother is having some issues with his compressor clutch on his forester and I was wondering if we could switch the compressor clutch with a spare one I have from an 02 Legacy gt. I have no idea if they are compatable, i was hoping that someone here might. I know they are able to be replaced without replacing the entire compressor. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Thanks a bunch guys, I just knew I had it available, but it doesn't sound very worthwhile as my ea82 runs just fine. I do like the idea of disk brakes and new rims, but if it wouldn't be a fairly simple swap, i don't know if i really want to tear it apart, being my daily driver and all. I may just have to wait until I can find a donor GL-10 or RX in my area.

Hello awesome Subaru community! I have a 90 loyale 3sp auto 4x4 wagon. I have recently come across a lightly wrecked 2002 legacy GT heading for the junkyard. I am interested in finding out what, if anything is swappable and links to what may be involved. I am particularly interested in hubs/brakes/wheels and engine. Please let me know what you think. Thanks.

you also can get the cone washer from subaru through their pats department. I had mine shipped to me from a dealer & bought them online. I think they were about 10 bucks each though.

Great video available on ea82 timing belt replacement by MilesFox on Youtube as well.

Rebuilt oil pump in my 90 loyale. Changed timing belts and stripped the covers. TOD gone!

I am interested in swapping my 3 sp auto for a 5 sp manual. I'd really like to put a D/R 5 speed instead of the pushbutton. If this is easily possible, what will I be needing for parts?

How much coolant do you have? As stupid of a question as that may seem, my loyale was doiung the same thing. I had tested all sensors and all were in working order, but my radiator had a leak that I hadn't noticed, and I had foolishly gone without checking it. Apparently, the CTS was misreading the temperature due to low coolant level. It would start, then was flooding out, causing stalling.

Thanks. I wasnt sure that it mattered, since it just makes the loop, but didn't want to do anything else stupid. I'd really like to swap this doggy 3sp auto for a manual at some point, but not today. Thanks again.

I am replacing the radiator on my 90 loyale. I have removed the trans oil cooler hoses to replace them and inadvertently did not mark which is which coming from the trans to the radiator. Can anyone advise please?

P.S. No difference w/ MAF sensor unplugged. Still stalls out.

I checked over MAF and coolant temp sensor (resistance at sensors and voltage from connectors). Also tested resistance of IAC. All are within tolerances as specified by Chilton manual. I had thought that MAF may have been it due to a clogged PCV valve sending oil into the intake, but that has been changed and the intake boot & MAF sensor have been cleaned w/ MAF cleaner. Is it possible that oil has made it into the TBI and burning, causing excess carbon on catylitic converter, maybe clogging it? Not sure though, please advise.

I am currently chasing a stalling problem around my 90 loyale. Just today I've checked resistance and voltage to every pertinent sensor to stalling, just to find they are all within tolerances. It's driving me crazy. I've just about narrowed it down to a clogging cat or muffler. I'm not sure on this, but who knows. I don't know if this could be your issue if it is passing emissions testing though. I'm in a similar boat, not a mechanic, but fix what I can.

Ok. I replaced the ignition coil, the old one looked as though it may have been factory. No dice. Still starts right up, idles for a while, then chokes out. It doesn't seem to warm up to low idle. I checked connections to coolant temp sensor, they look fine. I have no check engine light on when idling, but after it died out, I plugged in the green connector against firewall on drivers side and checked ecu light. Turned key to on. Consistently 7 quick flashes. I am at a loss here. If anyone has dealt with something like this, please help. Thanks.

I have checked spark at the plugs after it has warmed up, and still has plenty. I have not actually measured it though. I may have to see how much juice is making it there after it has warmed a bit. The reason for assuming the fuel issue was the substantial amount of fuel being cycled through when trying to start after a stall, but that would be quite a bit if there were not spark to consume it. I'll look into the coil and see also. Thank you guys.