Ross

Where is your 8psi measured? (before/after the IC?) if its after the IC, there may be close to 10psi before it.

Whatever method you use, you should preheat the parts before welding - they are probably a fairly high carbon steel. Heat to 150degC or thereabouts - slows cooling rate of HAZ and avoids formation of brittle martensite. Low hydrogen electrodes are a good idea too.

Something to remember -- often the reason the heater control breaks is that the control valve is siezed up. If thats the case, the control will break again if you fix it!

Yes, they are expensive, my one had a new one from a subaru dealer put on just before i bought it, cost the guy NZ$1500! (US$1000ish). The good news is that you can use the turbo off a later ('85-'89??) model car, with the ea82t engine (as opposed to your ea81t) with only mior modifications. THey should be much easier to find.

Yeah, if it was giving that code with the engine running, i would try replacing the pickup. However, now that you cant start the car, it will give you that code whether its bad or not - that code only goes out once the engine is running.

Well, it probably wont fall off. Probably. That is, unless you do any sharp cornering, or get the suspension twisted up. I wouldn't risk it if you have to drive very far, or at high speed. You may already know this, but the reason the pin wont go in is probably because you have the axle on 180 degrees out - it does make a difference, even though it doesn't look like it.

They were made right through, and in other countries non-touring wagons are quite rare. For some reason they just didn't sell them everywhere. I think the non-touring wagons were called "Omega" here.

Wierd - almost all ea82 wagons (and ea81s after 83) had the touring wagon roof here!

But would either of those not cause the engine to run bad off idle?

This is on a hitachi carb, from an '81. Probably slightly different to the USDM ones, the engine has NO (yes, absolutely none) emmision related stuff at all. Anyway, i've been trying to set the idle mixture, by turning the screw 2.5 turns from closed, and then adjusting to give max rpms. Problem is, adjusting the screw isn't having that much of an effect on the revs, the engine keeps speeding up very slightly untill the screw is right out!! That can't be right... The idle is rough wherever it is set, but the engine runs smoothly off idle, with plenty of power. Any ideas?

The pressure plate fingers should do what you describe, thats no problem. You sure you've got the correct parts for your model?

There is a little U shaped clip that holds them on - if you sorta push the door trim in a bit you can see it, easyst way to get it out is to use a small hook made from some stiff wire.

eh? This is regarding doing the caps up with plastigauge, not final assembly.

There is a cap that unscrews on the older ones, it has a bolt locking it in place, once thats removed you can unscrew it with anything. I have no idea if the newer ones are similar.

There are a resonable few of them floating around here - i just wish i had space to get one! I already have one more car than i have space for, but can't seem to get rid of one! If anyone is REALLY keen, you could see how much it would cost to ship from New Zealand to the US!

Code 34 will only come up if there is a problem with the vacuum solenoid or the wiring to it. A bad egr valve wont give a code 34. So unless you suspect bad wiring, change teh solenoid. Be careful if you find one at a wrecker, the hose nipples can get very brittle. If you have to use much force at all to remove the vacuum lines from it, just cut the lines and carefully cut them off the solenoid later.

'79 wagon - White with grey stripe (originally orange i think) '81 wagon - NZDM Sahara Biege, brown interior '83 wagon - JDM white, grey interior None blue!!

ehhh... that doesn't work! It would if the nuts went on the cap side, rather than the rod side. Still haven't figured anything out, short of making a fixture up. Any ideas?

Ok, thanks. I'm pretty disappointed with them - they seem to have been able to do two of the pistons without making any marks, another with only a few, but one looks a mess. Havn't really got the money for new pistons though (even though some 8.7:1 ones would go down a treat!), so i'll have to go with what i've got i think.

Plus, the diff and driveshaft are very quick and easy to swap. The whole job wont take much longer if you do it all at once. You can remove engine and tranny at the same time, but you have to remove the front crossmember - which means removing lower control arms and steering rack. Its not hard, but theres no point unless you specifically want the engine out as well.

the guys who did some cleaning and machining on my ea81t also cleaned the ring grooves. One of them in particular now has a whole lot of scratches on the upper and lower surfaces of the grooves - they dont seem to be deep at all when i run something over them, but they are very visible. Is this an inevitable result of the use of a ring groove cleaner? And does it matter? -I can put a pic up if anyone thinks it'll help.... Cheers.

I tried to pull a 40 series land cruiser with 33" MTs out of a bog - sunk up to the floor in sticky mud - that didn't work at all. Dug some good holes in the gravel trying. Turned out we needed two other 4wds and a tow truck all pulling at the same time to get it out! I have pulled out a Hilux with 31"s on a few occasions.

Grr, another set back. Just been checking ring to groove clearences (which are fine), and noticed some scratches in the lower faces of the grooves!! Cant believe the engine shop, that apparently machined the grooves, didn't notice! Looks like i may need new pistons after all, oh well, maybe ill get some N/A ones!

The engine is completely stripped, about to assemble. I might just have to put some pistons in and do it that way....

Hmm, just measured the crank bearing clearence, seems ok (well, its below the service limit anyway, and i dont want to buy a new crank so it will have to do!). Was about to do the rod bearings, but i can't quite work out how to stop the rod moving against the crank while im doing it up?? I have a few ideas, but i dont really like them....any suggestions??