Ross

If possible, a stiffer shock absorber will work better with the stiffer springs.

i'd say its gotta be either a bad A.D solenoid, or bad wiring to it. Unless your carb is leaking or something?

They may or may not need replacing - my ea81t that was in otherwise absolutely shocking condition didn't need them - still well within spec. I'd get them measured before making a decision, or you could just replace them anyway if you can't be bothered measuring. Some early ea81s had seals on the exhaust valves too (i think) - perhaps the exhaust valves get too hot and ruin the seals quickly??

If you want it real clean, take it to an engine reconditioner and get them to acid bath it. It will come back looking like new.

FSM says to re torque after heating to operating temp and leaving running for 10 mins.

Different - the turbo ones also retard the timing under boost.

Its on the inlet manifold, somewhere below the aux.air valve. I'd agree that thats probably the problem..

He didn't say he was going 122m/h, he said 122km/h, which is more like 73m/h.

You mean 3 main bearings?? I'd agree with that, however i'd still check the oil pressure before stripping it - just to make sure your pick up isn't clogged or anything. Dont expect heaps of pressure - bad mains will make it quite low.

Eh? It should run without it, not very well, but the computer should go in to "safe mode" to allow it to be driven - same with a lot of the sensors necissary for proper operation.

Knock sesor is on the top of the engine block, near the back on the 1-3 side. Its probably just come unplugged, but if not, you can check it by hooking up a timing light and tapping the block near the sensor with a screwdriver or something. The timing should retard.

Well, all manuals i've seen say adjust cold - don't know why, most other manufacturers specify to adjust when hot. I'd stick with what subaru recommends. You sure you had the crank in the right position when you were measuring? Also, i find that those feeler gauges with the bent ends make it easier to do with the engine in the car.

If you're real keen, take the rocker cover off and set up a DTI on the end of a valve or push rod or something, and measure the duration. Doesn't the brat engine have more low down torque? Tie two brats together by the tow bar, and have a tug-of-war with them. the winner has the brat engine!

Does sound like its a rod knock. You could try (if you havn't already) the 'ol screwdriver stethoscope trick (hold the screwdriver against the block at various locations and put the handle to your ear - gently, you can rupture your ear drum like that if your not careful) and see if you can pinpoint the location of the knock. You havn't checked the oil pressure yet?

Its not an engine/tranny mount is it?

Have you tried starting it without the maf? it should start without it, otherwise maybe there is still another problem?

Those bolts shouldn't take any shear if they are done up correctly - they are supposed to provide a friction joint, where the bolts are only in tension. I wouldn't be worried about that at all, just makes sure the mating faces are clean (not oily).

I'd say your making it much harder than it needs to be if you havn't removed the knuckle.... I usually find some good blocks of wood to support the knuckle on the floor.

Yeah, after converting it to degC (so i know what your talking about!) its not that cold - i'd have thought 10w would be ok.

It is possible that it broke internally (what type of oil are you using?) but i've never actually heard of it happening. Before you go changing it, make absolutely sure its not the gauge, cos its gonna annoy you if you change the pump then realise its no better. Could also be the relief valve, another thing to check before doing the pump - not sure where it is on an ea82 someone else will have to tell you that.

Perhaps the oil was too thick in the cold and the oil pump broke?

Find a torque spec for something with bolts of the same size and use that.

How is your ignition? Could be as simple as that.

Did you fix that bad ground? If only oscilloscopes were a little cheaper.......sounds like you need to find out what signals are getting where. It would certainly make the diagnosis easier if you could hire one or something.

That would be the auxiliary air valve - it is responsible for the high idle when the engine is cold - i beilieve the wires are actually attached to a small heating element that the computer can control, not a sensor. The computer is then able to lower the idle point before the coolant is fully heated. You said that it now starts and idles well, does that mean the problem is fixed, or does it still play up?