Ross

I liked the one titled "how long is a clutch?" too. Goes to show, some people really shouldn't drive manuals!

So whats the trick in getting the HU in there??? At the moment im making an adapter for a remote face plate for mine cos there doesn't seem to be enough depth????

I thought this may be interesting to people rebuilding engines... http://www.diagnosticengineers.org/Page%20B5-37.htm

Nice one. How did you get that head unit in there??? When i tried that the heater box was in the way and the head unit would have to stick out!

I think there may be an issue with the flywheel - i think the bolt holes are larger on the ea82 fllywheel, so the holes on the ea81 may be too small for the ea82 bolt size. However, you could use the ea82 flywheel, with an ea81 clutch disc, pressure plate and release bearing.

You should be able to use a distributor of a pre 1987 ea82t. Why dont you put a 5 speed in with it?

Could be your points, if you havn't checked them in a while it would be worth checking anyway. take your disty cap off, take the top rotor off and the points are right there. Held on by two screws. Turn the engine over till the points are fully open and measure the gap between the contacts with a feeler gauge. If wrong, you loosen the screws and use the oval hole in the points with the prong sticking through it to manouvre them around with a largish flat blade screwdriver. also, check the contact surfaces - they should be very smooth (polished), but they probably wont be anymore. If they arn't fairly flat, replace them. It should become apparent what im talking about when you look at them.

If you mean "weaker" then no, i think most of the gearbox is the same. I think they may use a different final drive ratio??

Yeah, most likely dislodged a vacuum line or perhaps a connector somewhere. look for loose stuff.

Hello. The tick is probably just a stuck hydraulic lifter, try the suggestion above. As for the driving probs, first make sure the ECS light comes up when ignition is on and engine is stopped. It should go out as soon as the engine starts. If thats ok, i'd start with checking over the ignition system - Leads, plug gaps, distributor cap, and maybe check the coil too. A good idea to change the fuel filters as well. Also check that your knock sensor is plugged in (two wires going to a thing sticking out the top of the block, behind the inlet manifold on the right side of the engine) - that will cause a loss of power if its not plugged in and wont bring up a trouble code.

So, are there pulses getting to the coil or not?

I hope you arn't planning on welding that tool/case hardened steel??

nice, they dont look that expensive to me - but what do you guys pay for a cheap tire over there?

There is no difference in the crank bearings (or anything under the pistons) between turbo/non turbo. But, as mentioned above, there is no point in her trying to adapt turbo bits on your engine - easier to just get an ea82t or use the N/A engine as is.

Havn't seen any decent 13" tires new. I saw a very old set of what looked like 175/70 R13 Mud tires on a honda city a while ago! Looked about 15 years old though! Retreads can be ok, depends on what the testing regs are over there. The treads dont usually come off now days like they used to, but sidewalls can be a problem. You just don't know what has been done to the tires before they are retreaded - ie hit curbs etc. This can lead to sidewall failures. If you dont drive like a looney, they are ok - i have some on mine at the moment as i couldn't afford anythine else at the time!

Thought you already had one in there? Only the 5 speeds that came in turbo cars had 25 splines - find one off a non turbo and your away laughing. I'm chucking a 5 speed in my wagon when i get that ea81t ready to go in.

Well as far as i know, a 1.6 turbo never existed, so unless its some strange aftermarket concoction, its a 1.8 turbo. That makes most of the engine except for pistons and intake the same as yours.

Yep, just wish the turbo motor was in mine! Soon..... The lower front springs are a pain for clearence, but boy do they outhandle any other ea81! Huge difference for such a small change in height. Ill try the cooking oil thing next time it snows (probably next year ), thanks.

Pretty easy to replace the bearing, take your time. Running in RWD shouldn't have any affect on the wheel bearings, unless something is wrong.

Its optical if its '87 or newer, magnetic if older.

If your putting a newly ground cam in, its a good idea to run your standard springs for the first few hundred kms or so (or so i have been told).

PAM????

So whats up with the 10:1 a/f ratio?! thats gotta slow you down.

You could see a performance increase, then again you might not. Just depends on how much of a pressure drop occurs over the IC. Definitely a good thing for your engine though. You can increase boost by adding a "boost controller" to the wastegate actuator line. You should be able to find info on that with a search.

Baisically, if you want less rotational inertia, lighten your flywheel. The pulley is so light and of such small diameter that it may as well not be there at all when it comes to rotational inertia. Anyway, on the turbo 6, someone has to do it, may as well be you!!