Ross

Over here they are 7206 RS2. The RS2 bit is the seals. I use RS1's - only one seal whickh i leave facing the knuckle seals. This way you can properly lubricate the bearings. Ill check on that part #, its been a while since ive bought them.

Thats the female solution to everything isn't it?

Sounds like the thermostat is stuffed. Many people seem to recomend oem ones, i cant say ive had a problem with others(yet). 180F should be fine.

Well, generally when you use a helicoil it involves running a special tap through the hole, and screwing in a wire insert; easy as. Im not sure how you stop the swarf ending up in the cylinder in this case though. Is there a special tool anyone?

I think you need a Slayer one too.

That sounds like the throwout bearing. It could also be the pilot bearing. If its the throwout bearing, the noise will not happen with the clutch engaged and the gearbox in neutral. If the noise is there, its the pilot bearing.

Dont worry, i wasnt, i was just being a smartass.

insert "bu dum chhhh" on drums and corny fake laughter here.......

Hmmm, seems odd that someone from the US is hasling a country about not conforming to the Kyoto protocol...

Just out of interest, what makes it a limited edition?

I agree, now if only we could make a small reactor to fit in a subie......

Generally, the bar just supports the struts in their original position. With the subie, you could have it pushing the struts apart, as this will reduce the funny camber they have from the factory.

Go for it! ONe other option is to split the water at home and somehow bottle it. Whether this will be cheap or not depends on your electricity prices, check it out. Dont want to be negative, but without using a catalyst of some kind, your car would be a perpetual motion machine if it worked with onboard water separation.

Sounds like an ignition module or possibly ignition coil.

If the bearings are bad enough to make a clicking sound, you will be able to feel excessive play in the wheel with it jacked up. You dont need a pres to do the bearings, just a hammer and a peice of 2x4 will do fine as long as you are careful.

I agree that you will definately need to use stored hydrogen. To produce enough energy to beark up the water, your alternator would requre at least three times the power your engine puts out. If you can find a source of hydrogen you should be able to make it work.

Oh... so how do you "break" the water molecules up? It requires a lot of electricity if you do it that way.

That would explain a few things! If this is the case, perhaps Skips write up should be changed to clarify this point? Thanks naru.

I think it would be ok. Very little of the engines strength is required for the combustion, it is mainly to withstand the large forces required to accelerate/decelerate the pistons, and especially the con rods at high revs. I think there is only one way to find out! I'm interested to know where you plan on getting all this hydrogen, and how much it will cost?

Maybe the water level was too low for the sensor to read?

yep - mpfi turbo ea81 (ea81t)

OK, i started the engine with the green connectors unplugged. I then unplugged the coolant temp sensor. The ecs light came up, and the computer started flashsing code 33 as expected. I then turned the car off, and plugged the temp sensor back in. I then plugged the green connectors in and turned the ingnition to the on position (engine off). Code 33 did not flash, just 11 & 12 (they always flash with the ign on and engine off).

I'm still unable to get stored codes from the ecs. There should definitely be some in there, but they dont show up when the green connectors are conected. What is the problem here?

Do you know if the car will re start once it has shut off? Or do you have to wait a while?

Ok, i took the car for a drive with the green connectors connected. After 2 or 3 mins of driving, the ECS light came on. The o2 light flashed code 24 - WOT switch remains in on or off position (at least thats what i think it said, i was dirving at the time). by the time i pulled over to check again, the code had stopped flashing (no activity on o2 light) and the ECS light had started flashing slowly. It continued to flash like this for the remainder of the drive, and i was unable to get it to repeat the code to check it. I did check the WOT switch a while ago, and it worked, but it seemed to switch on at around half to two thirds throttle - is this normal? Any suggestions on what the flashing ECS light means?