Ross

Thats what im thinking, but then why would subaru have bothered putting a different control unit in? S'pose it is subaru though!! The saab APC probably isn't a bad idea if i'm going to have to spend US$150 anyway!

That would be much appreciated!

As long as you are prepared to swap the whole wiring loom (including the under dash one i think) and computer, you should be fine. Why not take the 5 speed and diff with it though?

It seems it is impossible to get a new or second hand replacement for an ea81t knock sensor in New Zealand, so i have come up with these options: Buy one from the US for US$150 + p&p. Buy a new/second hand 85-86 ea82t knock sensor and hook it up to my ea81t knock control unit, and see what happens. Buy 85-86 ea82t knock sensor and knock control unit second hand and install the whole lot. Run without a knock sensor (i don't like this option too much). Burn the car to the ground (i like this even less). Anyone have any opinions on any of these ideas, or any other ones? Thanks.

Should be a vertical recessed flat head screw at the front of the throttle body.

Would a normal old crow foot wrench not do for the head nut?

Its also the correct fuel to air ratio, full stop. Do the chemistry, you'll see. Any leaner=slower burning, Any richer=slower burning. Slower burning=bad.

most bushings can be replaced, contact your dealer and ask if there is a repalcement available. If not, a parts shop could probabyl find one similar if you take the old one out first

You don't really need FI for cng anyway, just a dedicated CNG carb will do fine.

Does the deck play WMAs? THey seem to sound better for a lower compression ratio than mp3s (at least on my pioneer deck anyway).

yes, the bearing, and you will want to inspect it when it comes out for any evidence of excessive heat build up or excessive outer race rotation. Heat build up is easily seen - the bearing will be a goldish tan colour to a dark blue colour (depending on how hot it got). If the bearing has partially locked up and has started turning in the knuckle too much, there will be obvioius markings in the knuckle, and it would be best to replace it (the shoulder that holds the two bearings apart wears). Have fun.

More fuel wont help - anything over the stoichiometric ratio (14.7:1 by mass for petrol) will cause the mixture to burn slower, thus decreasing performance. Sometimes it is desireable to run slightly rich to combat detonation and to ensure complete use of the available oxygen, but if this is necissary your computer will already be doing it!

The car may end up slightly on the heavy side if you let a blacksmith fix it!

Can you weld? A panel beater would charge a lot of money to fix that rust, but you could do it yourself easily if you have the gear.

THere is an alternative to the honeycomb grille, as seen here on my ea81t wagon, it still 'aint pretty though if you ask me.

I have had this problem before (i am assuming you are talking about where the ball joint is connectd to the steering knuckle?). You need to remove the nut and clean the threads on both the nut and the ball joint. If they are damaged the nut will need to be replaced, and you will need to run a tapping die down the thread on the ball joint. If you can't get the nut off, tap the bottom of the ball joint with a dead blow hammer (or a regular hammer with a block of wood) to engage the taper enough to be able to turn the nut off. Hope this helps, i know how frustrating this can be!

The coolant is heating the throttle body and manifold, not cooling it. This is simply to ensure proper vapourisation of the fuel in low temperatures, and is generally not necissary at all.

yes, The spfi will need the ecu to fire the injector.

fenders off any ea81 style wagon will fit (80-84). I dont think there is any difference between wagons, hatches and sedans, though i may be wrong.

That is an interseting idea..... There is an 86 ea82t at the local wrecker, i might go see if it has the gear on it still.... Thanks!

i think Stahlwille and Ko-Ken make torx sockets in 1/4" drive too, you might want to compare the prices - especially Check to see if you can get Ko-Ken ones, they are often cheaper than snap-on or stahlwille but are still excellent quality.

I would be happy to use an early ea82t sensor if i could find out for sure if the sensors have similar parameters (sensitivty mainly). This is difficult to find, as i don't have a good ea81t one to compare anything to. This is why i need to find out whether the knock control unit is the same. At this stage i am certainly leaning towards going with the ea82t one, as it seems the knock control unit must be at least comparable, if not the same as the ea81t one, since it interfaces with the same ignition module. On the other hand, it seems that if the sensors are essentially the same, they could have just continued using the ea81t one on the ea82t. i do want to find out some more before i go spending the money and performing any modifications (had a look at an ea82t one and the threaded stud looks smaller, i may be wrong though). Thanks.

My knock sensor problem has just become even worse..... The dealer has finally found the correct part number.......but they cant get it. So, i was wondering if anyone knows whether the ea81t knock control unit is the same as on early ea82ts or any other car? An old Nissan 280 fairlady my friend owns has a very similar looking knock sensor, could this be the same? Thanks.

I posted this on the old gen page, with no results.....so ill try here. I am just after some ideas on the mounting of hte downpipe to the front of the tranny (mounted close to the axle on the 3at). Im mainly wondering what bolt on the 4 speed others have used for this bracket. (what bolts are long enough, and will not cause leaks if removed to fit the bracket...etc.). Any ideas would be great! Thanks.

There is a vacuum line running to the Fresh/recirc controls - the door near the fan is operated by a vacuum diaphragm.