rallyruss

a bad torque rod bushing will effect all alignment angles to some extent. get the bushings fixed first then get it aligned somewhere else.

this is the most common. no harm in the short term. but the gasket should be changed. cleaning out the lifters can help sometims too.

the body side is just a steel sleve. the "rod" is now square tubing and then the small rubber bushing is still stock on the engine side. I expect it to be really stiff and vibrate lots. perfect for rallyX. actually the other half (body side) of the stock torque strut was recetly used to fab up a new strut for the wagon. it works really well providing good solid shift with minimal "bucking" and little vibration. I fogot to take pics of it and now its burried under the intercooler.

well there was beer involved so a test drive will have to wait till tomarow morning.

so I was left with a few hours of spare time today and decided to stiffen up the RX a bit more. as compared to my wagons set up.

I assume you are talking about the 14mm allen used on the piston pin plugs and other case plugs? double nutting might not work on those. they usually take a lot of torque to remove. I went and got the right tool to pop mine out.

mmmm beer.....and cookies.

trans drain plug is a 21mm on my new RX. I just went out there to verify. 7/8" will work in a pinch.(sometimes cars have aftermarket drain plugs of different sizes too) rear end plug will work fine with a 1/2 rathet or breaker bar. a trick to help with the rear end plug if it gives you a hard time. install a breaker bar in plug socket kicked out to the right side of the car. then put a jack under it and pump. use the weight of the car and the jack bar to help break it loose. this is helpfull if you have bad shoulders like me of just like to do things the easy way. fill with a skinny long funnel thru the dip stick. pour slowly or it may give you some trouble. I just put the 75/90NS in the gl10 wagon this week. it works great.

sorry I have been meaning to get another pic for you but have been busy. after looking closely yes they do stick out past the fenders by a little bit in the front.

this is somewhat true. but if you are going to swap an ER27 into an EA82 car the stadard XT is one of the best options. I was at the junk yard with an XT right next to an XT6. I spent a good bit of time observing the differnces. It might be as simple as moving the fan to the front of the radiator. or mabey you will need to do some chop mods. go take some actual measurements.

hmm what about ER27.......turboized! i hear it has been done before. swap pistons from the EA82T motor to lower compression (that will keep you from poping it). install an areocharger or standard type turbo of sufficent size(plumbing issues). custom up/down pipes. run the fuel system with a megasquirt system. the XT cars seem like they were made for a fron mount intercooler. definately do the 5 lug swap to gain a good selection of wheels and suspension components. oh wait sorry thats MY current dream sube. go get your own. JK you can build it if you want. the current trend is to go EJ22. not a bad chioce there either. simple yet durable.

ok im done laughing. first off welcome to the board. hope we can help. next you little car did not come with much powr to start with so it would not take much to slow it down. now I start throwing educated (or noneducated depending on who you ask) guesses at you. first- fuel filter plugged second- exhaust pluged third-air filter pluged you get the trend? somthing is keeping your sube from breathing properly it would seem to me. its a slow little car but it should hit 70 and be able to cruise there ok.

The stock motor in an 85 gl is usually the EA82 carbed motor. now you say plug and play. meaning you want a bit more power out of it? that would be the plug and pay option.

might not have seized if it was not exposed to all the water and debris the fan blows at it as you fly down the road. just a thought.

so I just got done fabing up the rest of my exhaust system for the RX. I already was running the Ghetto 2.5" down pipe I made and the last guy chopped the muffler and did 2.5 pipe(no muffler) out the back. so it had a good down pipe and axle back system but restrictive middle. he he.. not any more:) I did the center all 2.5" pipe as well. man the test drive was loud. its going to be fun in the dirt but I dont think I could drive it long on the street without going deaf or geting pulled over all the time. and turbo whine? oh yeah. you can hear it purr at idle:slobber: pics would be lame and you really would not appreciate the sound unless you heard it in pearson. so no.

not too shabby. the score in the cyl. does not look that bad. I would still change the rings and bearings plus give it a bit of a hone job I know I know. No time no money.

the covers came on the car for a reason(or two) I dont like to mess with t belts all the time so I make sure I have my covers on. but this is an OLD dead horse that no longer needs beating.

but its much nicer to remove the motor and work in comfort. probably just as quick too. espically if you are doing both like you probably need to.

try a parts+ or carquest I know where toget them here but who knows up there. NAPA sells the belden wires. They are nothing special.

ooooh looks purdy! use NGK wires they fit perfect, and are a real quality product over all. Magnacore are also good but will cost more.

go to a better parts store. they are available. I have purchased them in the not so distant past. I also assume it makes a lot of noise at higher RPM?

stoped by the local PNP up the road from my house today. noted a 87 carb wagon with body damage, engine turns over, no cluster no miles. also had a XT turbo. A 91 loyal SPFI. and A XT6 (man I want that suspension with 5 lug hubs). I did not have time to check any other yards. I know you are looking east but just thuoght I would share what I saw today.

I belive some non US spec subarus did not use an O2 sensor. I think this might be the case here. I also have an idea where to look for your problem. check The coolant temp sensor (as Cougar sugested) and the connector/wiring to it. I just posted a thred about the importance of the Coolant sensor and its conncetion. a corroded connection can cause the computer to think its cold all the time and dump too much fuel. some other basics would be to check fuel pressure, check the mass air flow sensor, Throttle position sensor. and no dont convert to carbs. find a better mechanic that understands your car.

if I were going to open it up that far I would remove and inspect the pistons too. then install with new rings also. they dont cost that much. thats basically what a professional subaru rebuilder would do.

you will want one of these also to seal the cam housings to the head. I dont really recomend using it on the paper gaskets(intake) as it tends to spooge out the sides a bit. oh yeah no sealer on the exhaust flange gaskets either.