rallyruss

so its rally cross season again. a good way to get out and play without spending all the money on real rallying. lots of fun. low budget racing. I am trying to get the time off so I can go.(if the GL10 is back in action) It would be a great event to attend. they also have a rally school you can attend for a reasonable price. there lots of rookies in WRXs out there to watch spin off the track. thats always lots of fun. so if anyone is interested I strongly recomend signing up. http://www.sfrscca.org/RallyX/

I tried to get a quote from JE pistons a while back. talked to two different people and had verry different experiences. first guy was real friendly and helpfull had a reasonable quote for me. second guy(who really does the work I guess) had a bit of an attitude and quoted me a significantly higher price. I decided to go stock. if you can afford it it can be made.

looking better. I still se a rubber adaptor on the hot side of the IC. might not last verry long. you also need to consider the flex between the motor and IC. welded lips wont be necessary untill you get boost up a good bit. some good silicone hose clamps usually hold well on moderate boost.

when its all done parts are yours. what exactly do you need? I have the springs that are on the car plus some others. more sleves too. I am done with it as soon as my new stuff gets here. pm me for details. oh yeah a little side note. I had some pvc in place as an elbow for the bypass valve. the heat killed it. hade to duct tape it together to get it to run right. I did a bit of research and have found that pvc is not good to use on intakes as it gives of vapors when hot that the motor does not like. so before it hits the road again I have some piping to replace.

ok here.

ok hope someone can learn from my mistakes. I installed a set of coil over sleeves that are oh so common now days. Had it on the car less than 6 months. it helped out with the load carrying capacity a bit. thats about all I can say good about the set up. the spring rate and strut dampining(kyb) were not verry compatable. It was rather bouncy over speed bumps ect. travle seemed to be reduced too. this was my second version of rear suspension modifications on this car. as some may know I ran larger springs out of a 87 accord (front) but that was only good when the car was fully loaded. so story behind the failure was rather fun actually. in short it was me and friends exploring the back country of death vally. I was pushing the car a bit hard on the dirt roads and eventually blew the lower spring pearch on the right rear when crossing a washout. we patched the strut together with some parts found in the desert. but it was blown and made for a slow ride home. I have a little somthing on order that may just blow away all my previous attempts to upgrade my rear suspension. he he. sorry no pics of the desert rally action as I was too busy driving. my friend Mike got a few. I will work on that soon.

ok long story short or maby short story long. I just limped my car all the way home from death valley with a blown out strut with a spring pearch that also blew off the strut housing. This was with a cheapy coil over set up like the ones you are looking at installed. to be honest it never really did ride well. spring was too short and did not alow the suspension to fully travle its range smoothly. this was notr too much of a problem on the street but flying down a dirt highway at 50 + mph was just too much for it. I crossed a washout a little too fast and it completely destroyed the right rear strut. we found some old car parts out in the desert and were able to fashon a cheesey repair out of a cracked turbo housing that got us home but it was a slow and bouncy ride to be sure. I am going to try and find true threaded body coil overs that I can adapt to the rear of the car. Im not messing with those adaptor sleves any more.

cats do go bad. usually because the fuel/ignition system is not working properly. you can always get a down pipe and install an aftermarket cat. it would fix half your problem. then you may need to have the car checked out to make sure its running proper. a cat can be bad and not be cloged.

looking good. yeah that rubber hose will not last long at all. you need reinforced silicone hose. and air flow as you already know to make that thing work. I can see the silicone hoses that I installed on the turbo and heater lines in your pic. ahh memories of RX fun. oh yeah I have a sure fire way to hook up that BPV to your set up. its called a welder. I can make you some good solid fitting adaptors if you like. you saw the ones I made for mine right? back to the IC plumbing. you will want the flexible connections to flex as the motor moves and the IC stays put. they make special connectors with a bulge in them just for that reason. well you know how to find me if you want some help with it.

no contest KYB is better. still not the best as they only offer the GR2s but better than the other options.

I thinks you must have failed to detect the sarcasm in calebs comment. yes this is common on most makes of cars. good job skip. easy to understand instructions to properly troubleshoot a CEL.

I have a used one here for you. LOTS less expensive than what the dealer will charge. just show me that pic to make sure I send you the right one. oh yeah I will try and test it too. make sure its still good. yeah dealers rarely do business with the older subes.

thats restriction you feel or somthing else wrong. it wont float that early. trust me I raced that car. I never take my cars over red line but right up to it on occasion seems ok to me. subie94 and lukas must drive non turbo cars. turbos like to run at high RPM. just the nature of the beasts.

that would probably work well. leave the dump into the turbo a bit small to keep speed up. I was looking at the turbo off a 1.8T VW in my garage and it has a tiny inlet but can make some real good power.

the narrowest point is aprox 1 1/4" right at the bend to go up to the turbo. I choped that section out and put in a 2" section. posted it back when I did it. also smoothed the ports in and out of the up pipe. runs good but then again I did the TD04 at the same time so who knows what it really did.

not normal. might be a waterpump. they have that symptom when failing sometimes. might want to check out the NEW gen fourm;)

I will be interested to hear if the oil change and timing fix this. lifter tick is really a good bit differnt than pinging that may be caused by incorrect timing adjustment. lifter tick hapens ALL the time, pinging is under load. I have had sube motors take a while to "pump up" the lifters. but it sounds like you sholud have been there by now. yeah its best to break in a motor on regular oil but I doubt that the synthetic is the cause of your tick. a lifter is a simple component dont think it makes much difference to it what kind of oil it gets. I had a Lifter problem on a rebuilt EA82T motor once too..... get this straightended out right away.

please explain your reasoning behind your veggy bad theory? I have a diesel benz 5 cyl turbo that will be running bio D and maby veggy someday. It should run just fine from what I hear. some newer diesels can only run bio Diesel no veggy. Is that what you are refering to? if so I think it only applies to diesels with the new style injectors or "comon rail systems". I have done a bit of research as I am actively looking to go to an alternative fuel source before the great fuel price hike that will be coming some day. dont think a suby engine case could really handle the pressures of diesel. from what I hear evin Ford is having a bit of trouble with the new 6.0 aluminum block power strokers. aluminum block and head with a diesel is not a really good idea.

ok I read it. looks like he might make more in the future but I would not bank on it. thanks for the correction Will. I just assumed He was still making them. sucks as they were good units.

there are actualy some other options too. not knocking TWE at all just want to put the info out there. http://www.subspeed.com had a down pipe made by them. real high quality espiaclly in fit and finish. traded it to XSNRG as I no longer run the stock turbo. I do recomend The WRX(TD04) turbo swap as it will eliminate boost creep caused but the small waste gate on the stock unit when flow is increased thru the motor. it also has the ability to perfom better under hard use than the stock unit. It is a bit of work and fabrication to swap it.

the whole range is close to 30 degrees. but if you just brought it back to center then thats only like 15. yes timing is best set with a light but in a pinch you can do it by vacume or ear/feel.

alright I will give it another chance. I will work on it today when I work on the new roof rack before work. I really want the knock protection though.

never got my APC up and running properly. thought I might have had a bad switching solinoid so I swaped it out. no good still just makes noise most of the time. on ocassion it will actually give me the increased boost im looking for. I have not had the time or desire to track down what the issue is. as of right now I am ready to pull my stuff off and scrap it. I put about 60-80 $ into it so far. if Clayton is not able to get one for you guys I might be willing to part with my set up if some one wanted to get it working. I have all the needed parts according to the resouces found on line. I think I may just save up and buy a regular boost cotrol system. or leave it stock for now.

got yer PM yeah. HC is basicaly an indicator of unburned fuel. the CO is what tells how the mixture is and it looks really good. HC can becaused by the dirty oil.... maby. ignition tune up... more likely. or another one that would be a bit more serious is low compression on a cyl. or two. I have seen this real recently on a corolla. car seemed to run real well with fresh oil, tuned up, NEW cat. it barely passed due to low compression on cyl 2 and 3. A new cat may help it thru the test but may not really fix it. good idea to let the owner keep the car fo now. its his/her job to get it to pass before selling. you know that one now. the car may have run differently if they messed with timing?

never tried it but I would guess the whole dist adj. range probably covers almost 30 degrees. you may have gone on a tooth off on one or both belts. the disty may have been installed incorrectly before? off a tooth there? pull the outer covers and verify that you got the belts on properly in relation to the timing belt mark on the flywheel. then check that the disty rotor is pointing at #1 when the motor is on #1 tdc. just check the basics first.