MudisFun

sawzals (wrong spelling) can be picked up at a pawn shop for under $50 and that should cut the head of the bolt if you're careful. You might want to think about it, I know I use mine every other project

Total Time - four days, mostly on... Completed Mission - Head Gasket Set + Oil Pan Gasket + Oil Pump Reseal Cuts - five good ones on my hands, one on my right side Cost - With tools, about $400 Left Over Bolts - One, yah! Knowledge Learned - Priceless? No, about $400 and a girlfriend who thinks I don't want to listen about her day as I am sitting on a EA82 trying to loosen a head bolt. She's done! Sounds like crap but will get me to work and school untill I get a chance to fine tune on Friday. I just wanted to say thanks to everyone that helped me out (I was 180 deg off- damn). Usmb your getting $10 next pay check, I think it's about time. Well I having a beer and a cigar, although I think everyone deserves (though who helped anyway:-p ) the same reward, but shipping isn't free.

I just got done setting my engine back into my 85 GL-10 after a head gasket job. Got confused when getting the distribtor back in but all when well. She started like crap, still that was a good thing - she started. I yanked out the distributor again and set the crack the 0 deg on the first cyl. Now that the timimg should be better the engine won't fire. I hooked up a timing light and cranked the engine, nothing... So here is the question: Should there be a link between the top "pick" metal and the metal inside the rotor, the plate that connects to the distributor? I checked for ohms and there is not a connection.

I used small hand tools, two jacks, and three beer bribed friends to do the lifting for me.

Three problems: 1. Lifters, how the hell do you remove them? Just pull? 2. When I looked at the timing marks on the two cams and crank the stock marks are all off. The driver side is only about five degrees advanced, but the pass is almost 180 degrees off. Don't worry I made my marks but is this a problem. 3. I wasn't planing on taking the valves anywhere for their stem seals and seats, so I didn't buy a spring compressor. When I took the head off there were cracks between the valves on both sides. The engine will be taken apart again in a year, should I use something (wire brush) to clean the valves untill I find newer heads for the rebuild in a year? Thanks :-\

Engine is out and here I go! Wish me luck, thank for the info.

Gap out the exhaust!!!! Yah:brow:

Thanks Calebz, but still the list help would nice based on personal jobs.

If you don't mind the damage, just hammer a cage into place. Until the mutt finds himself getting through it, the idea should work. Done it on a loyale and did just fine.

I'm about to rip open the head gaskets (when the sun comes up) for the first time on my subaru and it's just like christmas was I was ten!

Milesfox; were are you brother? Help a lear'n man out.

I need help, if you guys don't mind. EA82 MPFI Head gasket replacement, using a kit. It would been great to get a list of tools needed, besides those found in a everyday persons tool set. Also tips and proper sealants (where to use them). I will also be doing a oil pan gasket, should I use silicone to cork? I hope to get a good write-up for more detailed how to manual with pics! Names will be given credit. Thanks ahead of time!

I got the same noise. After all that work that I did something still wasn't right. Read the thread may help you out... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28873

Well in 24 hours I will find out what it will take... hope it's not the head gasket but for a twenty year old engine I would still love my soobie the same:D

Check for leaks, fix the leaks if there are any. Make sure that the oil pressure gauge wire it connected! On the loyale's the wire could be disconnected and show wierd **** on the inside needle. Loss of compression or air flow might be problem not the oil at all. As far as I know if nothing is leaking and the pump is be driven at start up, well it could be electrical (ground, alt, bat, ect...), air, fuel. But first to rule out oil check for leaks, the gauge wire, you could even check the dip stick right after run the engine for a second. I there is oil up more than an inch beyond the f line, you should be good. Keep it safe!

The noise was cooling boiling in the coolant res. and playing with the rpm probably didn't help. I just got payed today, so I will drop box my check before work and head to Napa for a pressure tester after work: yah debit card! I will go ahead and test the damn thing behind the store. If the readings are wierd (some more info of wierd results) I will get some testing fluid from them or shucks.Here's something that might or might not be related; most every time I accel there is a spray/gargle noise coming from the center of the inside. I must re state the heater core does not leak I have gotten close enough to notice a leak.

I did all of that work on the cooling system because would would have to be done sooner or later. I want the engine to burn cold so I did take the time to fill the rad correctly, that is the ten minute way. I will go ahead and check the pressure; I that there is no water in the oil and the heater core is sealed. I a week or so I will be able to get close to a dyno with a sniffer and check for exhaust in the system. Thanks for all the help! Iwill let you know what was up.

The thermostat is not genuine subaru (napa), but was installed correctly. I have been driving the car for about two month after the repairs with nothing like this happening. All I can think of is the rad cap.

My power steering leaks bad! I tryed flushing with stop leak seeing how it was coming out from the pass inner boot, worked for three days. So right now I am with out power steering and minimal fluid in the system; although the car seems to be driving fine. Taking out the pump, hoses, and fitting new belts should be okay as far as I know. But you might want to every now and then run some fluid system for lube and cleaning.

Here's one for yah: Took my 85 GL-10 out for it's first freeway test and it failed. The temp looked to be down below the mid mark for ten miles at 55-65 mph. At about that point I started to hear a radle noise coming from the engine bay, and at first I thought it was the holes in the exhaust so I played with the rpm's to see how it would react. Two more miles the noise increased and so did my temp (almost red). Got of the freeway and saw that coolant was boiling out of the overflow tank. Let her cool down, put about a gallon of fluid back into the system. After starting her up I checked for leaks - found none, thermostat opened just fine so I took the back roads home (35mph tops). Here is a list of the recent work done to the cooling system thermostat water pump fan electrical (is working fine) a few hoses Damn cooling system.....

If it will ever stop raining on my days of I will give her a try. Thanks!

Thanks for the info. I'm in search of the wagon right now, once I can get the money I think it would be sweet to reseal and make the transfer.

I want to some put my EA82 (9:0:1) mpfi into a 80-84 4wd manual GL wagon. I kind of have an idea of what it might take; engine computer, welding, wires, ... which tranny will I need? Am I missing anthing important on my small list? Right now the engine is with a 2wd a/t - worthless to use on a wagon.

I am making a note for this right now. As said this engine is my baby, so while I have somebody who knows a thing or two I have another question if your don't mind. I want to some put my EA82 mpfi into a 80-84 4wd manual GL wagon. I kind of have an idea of what it might take; engine computer, welding, wires, ... which tranny will I need, right now the engine is with a 2wd a/t - worthless to use on a wagon. the comp. ration is 9:0:1.

Thanks, that method would be an improvement over my last try. Once this damn weather stops I will take the time to remove all of those bolts'n stuff, sounds like a bit of work.