MudisFun

As long as they both have a double barrel hitachi it should fit just fine. Otherwise the intakes will have to be swapped, but in the end an EA81 is an EA81.

I'm down to one subbie, and I gave Andy its carb for his last trip. So I'm down to a bicycle. I kind of like it this way but I'm not able to travel far distance on a work night. I have a couple ideas; if the engine is running rich and all cylinders are firing, fuel pressure is correct and injectors are not stuck open, then you have a input to the ecm out of whack. It could almost anything but most likely a maf, ect, o2, tps sensor. If Rollie stops by Wednesday between five and seven I should be able to figure her out for ya. Just give a call to Andy for the address if he wants to stop by. Don't have to worry about light everything can be tested at the ecm. If Andy is planning to head over Wednesday I catch a ride with him.

Next week, if your bother is going to be in Bellingham, I can bring my tools home. Just give him Andy's phone number. I think I still owe ya one.

Next Year, yo

The high lift rocks! But it is hard to find lift points if you don't have a good steel brushguard and rear bumper. The only problem is real muddy spots you have to use the rim of your spair tire as a base to jack on and things get messy wherever you keep your spair. Happy late birthday. Long live the tube bumbers!

There from an ea82 SPFI, pay for shipping cost and buy me a WCSS 7 dvd, and they are yours!

Send them back!!! I got two ea82 pistons sitting right hear if you whant them.

Sounds like a good find, congrats!

Drive fast and die young! or Drive safe, live long, and smell funny at seventy?

This supplier is great for oem parts www.thepartsbin.com main bearing set from japan for $30! I have never had to buy bearings for any subaru rebuild so far. Run them hard until you see copper!!!!!

I not sure for subaru but most efi systems have a start plan, batch fire, release... You are saying your getting no signal at all from the pcm when cranking? I'll do some digging around for inputs for the fuel system but just to let you know your subaru most likely has a clear flood mode when starting at wot, the injectors won't open if the throdle is wide open test in cfm is worthless.

Give me a call this weekend Jeremy 733-8583

Breaker bar wrapped in a a couple of rags against the frame, bump the starter. Works every time!

Look's like your brat did well, congrats!

I'll get the video from one of those guys next week. That was close to being the best run my wagon has ever had! Heading out today to get her some fresh delo for doing so well

The Grand is always open, but the grove is where it's at.

Needy any parts Dusty? Andy is heading out to Birch Bay to the hatch.

I will head up Thursday, just to scope it out, thanks for heads up Scott. There will be some big rigs with us, maybe we'll get that river tail open.

Getting closer!!! Everyone who can make needs to! The will be a big group of Northfork weekenders and we have to show them up. Scott, Amanda, Jeff?

Form those of you who don't have it yet... the 32/36 DGV Manual Choke Weber diagram http://www.racetep.com/weber/32_36DGV.pdf 1. Pull out choke completely and start car. (Do not pump the pedal!) Once it starts. back in the choke until the revs come up and the engine smoothes out. (About 1/2 way on warm days, 1/4 on cold ones.) This is called the 'sweet zone' and it is where you will be setting the choke each time once you have the car started. It will become second nature, but fur now you may have to work at it. When the temp gauge comes up off 'C' you will want to push the choke in 1/2 the distance remaining. When at operating temp, push it all the way in. (If you forget or fail to get the choke sot correctly you can foul spark plugs!) Note: During this time the paint on your new header will burn off and cause lots of smelly smoke. (This is ok and your car is not going up in flames!) 2.You can start tuning as soon as the engine is fully warmed- up and you are off choke. The first thing is to adjust the idle speed to about 800-900 rpm. (The idle speed may be set too low from factory and the car may die when you push in the choke. Just adjust up the idle speed a small amount.) 3. With the speed at 800-900 rpm. adjust the mixture screw counterclockwise in 1/8 of a turn increments, pausing a second or two between each turn to allow the engine to catch up. Listen to the rpm; if it comes up. adjust the idle speed screw to keep it within 900-1000 rpm and continue until the rpm starts to decline. Don't adjust for the decline, but now start turning the mixture screw clockwise in the same 1/8 turn jumps. Remember to pause. Continue this until the rpm starts to decline and the engine runs rougher. Back out the mixture screw counter-clockwise 1/16 of a turn from this point and take the car for a test drive. WEBER PAGE 7 FINE TUNING NOTES. Copyright BRIT-TEK Ltd 1993

Will be at the Sunset Shell Station at 10:00 and make a stop at the IGA.

On the 19th there will be a final North Fork Off-roading trip, it's gon'a shut the first!

I ran over my cell phone, but pm me if you want to go out for a drink sometime next week.

You could check the od with a mic, if they are the same you're good. As long as the screen is clean I wouldn't worry about it.

Those bumpers are now on sale for a hun if anyone wants one just ask! I won't hold my breath