MudisFun

New plan, at 4:30 I will be leaving the Sunset Square Shell Station (lots'o S's). Going to meet up with a few guys at 6:30 near Custer, so we'll be out late. Give a call if you need some help with the where or the when.

Sunday is just about the only day I have off every week but if you give me notice I will gladly demand a day of wheeling! Just got from talking to a guy at battery beacon, hooked me up with four 185/70 studless snow tires at $50, JB Welded my radiator this morning so I could probably keep up with you guys OR BLOW TIRES TRYING, YAH !!!!

Just got the day off, ya! The weather is horible and I'm thinking about hitting a mud hole in Birch Bay. Will leave sometime between noon and four, and the more the better. I'm going to get a few tires for the wagon to eat and will be back sortly, give a ring if you want to come along 733-8583.

Took the wagon for it's first offroadish trip, and now my baby's got a name... The Rubber Buster! Killed to tires and a third one is leaking. Here's some pic, damn what a fun trip. Two Quick Vids: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=5033&sort=1&size=medium&cat=500 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=5032&sort=1&size=medium&cat=500

Going to a junk yard and pulling a engine for a $300 or less subby is no big problem at all! What did you find, I might what it:-p

Welcome, the best way to find info here is to do a search, although it might take a while to find what your looking for. Motor Oil 10w30 Mobile 1 Lucas Synthetic Oil Treatment Gear Oil Red Line 75-140 Syn Royal Purple Syn To reset the computer kill all of the juice for a full day.

Came with the car. It just says Dash Cover Tm, I'll try to track down the maker for ya all.

It's about time, so here ya go! The $200 DL with $250 into repairs so far... Here's the rest... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=8346

I have a subby kind of for sale, it's a 85 GL-10 if you want to take a look give me a call 733-8583

My cat has a big big big leak in the side, backfires like a son of a gun. Check your headers and stuff?

So front (final gear box) and manual trans share the dip stick. The rear diff is checked by the 1/2 drive inverted plug. Or have I been that drunk Turbone?

Northwet, you got a good one too! I will keep both of these in mind, I guess I learned something, thanks!

Describe your disty, I might have one for you.

Did you put the thermostat in the correct way? The spring should lead to the rad and a valve that retracts to the engine. Boefore I knew any better I used the up arrow on a napa thermo but the spring needed to be up because the thermo was not before the water pump it was after. Long store short I didn't notice the problem for a month of freeway driving, still don't know why?

Don't do it! Strait silicone gaskets will only hold for a short while, and then they're toast. You could get a overnight from speedyparts.com I think?

Where does your friend live?

The lighter the oil the quicker the full circulation at start up, are running 10w30? To answer your real question, yes it's normal. When starting her up count one-one thousand, two, one thousand after the starter is dis-engadged. If the noise presists for longer, try using that lucas stuff cause you got a problem. Other wise don't worry about it.

See, there's graps and more to add. I figured maybe some one would have something good to add...

1. Crank the engine untill the first cylinder reaches Top Dead Center. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder closes to the electric fan, furthest from the disty, this is #1. Pull the rubber cover off of the bell housing; located on top of the EA82's and side of the EA81's, so that you are able to read the numbers of advanced and retarded timing. Rotate the crank shaft by using a box wrench on the acorn type nut holding the pulley down. Stick your finger over the plug hole. You are feeling for the compression stroke, that is when the piston reaches TDC and declines to BDC without either valve opening. So when you feel air pushing from the combustion chamber (cylinder), that is when the piston is compressing the air/gas mixture. If the the crank is rotated a few more degrees (15 or somthing) the flow will change and the piston will try to suck you finger into the chamber. When moving beyond the compression stroke you are simulating the power, downward force, provided by the mixture being ignited by the spark plug. Find the spot between the two strokes and that is TDC. Now look at the flywheel or flex plate and line up the marker with the degrees BTDC indecated by your manual or 10-20 B. If you choose not to pull the spark plug you will be able to continue but might have to give a second try. The cam shaft will rotate once for every rotation of the crankshaft. That means if the 0 deg mark is showing the the compression or exhause stroke has completed. What is comes down to is may needed to reset the disty because you were 180 degrees off on the disty gear. 2. Set the distributor. Most manuals will describe a system using two arrows... it's confusing. They instruct you to find TDC and then aline the arrow on the exposed case with the dot on the shaft. If you want the sure fire way, well here you go. With the disty dis-engauged from the drive gear on the cam shaft, remove the disty cap. Rotate the shaft by turning the ignition rotor (the plastic cap with a strip of metal on the top). Since the engine is at the point which it requires a spark at the first cylinder, the rotor should point over the the first cylinder's spark plug wire on the disty cap. At this point you might see where the arrow system works. Set the disty into the cam, locking the gears. Check the cap one more time to make sure that the rotor is where it should be. This might take a few tries. 3. Fire her up! Replace the spark plug, cap, wire, and vac advance lines, if any. Make sure everything is ready and then fire her up, if she will. If nothing happens but the starter cranking, that's bad. If the engine starts and sounds like crap, good. Play with the timing untill it will hold a spark so you can run to the timing gun. Don't pull out the disty from the cam until you have run out off of space but keep in mind that most likely if you did step 1 & 2 correctly it's all good but might need a second person so you a examine the timing light while someone rotates the crank using the starter. Locate in you manual the degrees recomended for your model. If you have an auto you might want to consider asking others for the best degrees for the best results.

bump? No, yah's lets getting crack'in on that section? Nobody have any ideas to prefect the disty service write-up?

Try using synthetic and lucas oil treatment, fix the start-up chater for me.

I was looking through the R&M section and noticed that it has grown since I have joined. But still not what it could be! I know that there have been a few long, long, long how-to posts for the old gen that would be good to "buff up" and save as for reference and instuction. I think it would be smart to have well spoken people avalible to review and revise members how-to's. I heard the r&m section use to be filled but almost not worth the effort to fing the right info? Maybe if all posts in the r&m could be ungraded, corrected, and added upon BY ANYONE then there would one kick rump roast write up for one repair or mod. Here's something that I posted a while back, torxxx has a good EA82 Disty instruction but I think maybe a few ideas were left out; although calbrez might say different. Still I know somebody has something to still add (torxxx , your .02 would help) before she's ready to go! 1. Crank the engine untill the first cylinder reaches Top Dead Center. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder closes to the electric fan, this is #1. Pull the rubber cover off of the bell housing so that you are able to read the numbers of advanced and retarded timing. Rotate the crank shaft by using a box wrench on the acorn type nut holding the pulley down. Stick your finger over the plug hole. You are feeling for the compression stroke, that is when the piston reaches TDC and declines to BDC without either valve opening. So when you feel air pushing from the combustion chamber (cylinder), that is when the piston is compressing the air/gas mixture. If the the crank is rotated a few more degrees (15 or somthing) the flow will change and the piston will try to suck you finger into the chamber. When moving beyond the compression stroke you are simulating the power, downward force, provided by the mixture being ignited by the spark plug. Find the spot between the two strokes and that is TDC. Now look at the flywheel or flex plate and line up the marker with the degrees BTDC indecated by your manual or 20 B, your almost done! 2. Set the distributor. Most manuals will describe a system using two arrows... it's confusing. With the disty dis-engauged from the drive gear on the cam shaft, remove the disty cap. Rotate the shaft by turning the ignition rotor (the plastic cap with a strip of metal on the top). Since the engine is at the point which it requires a spark at the first cylinder, the rotor should be over the right over the first cylinder's spark plug wire on the disty cap. At this point you might see where the arrow system works. Set the disty into the cam, locking the gears. Check the cap one more time to make sure that the rotor is where it should be. This might take a few tries. 3. Fire her up! Replace the spark plug, cap, wire, and vac advance lines. Make sure everything is ready and then fire her up, if she will. If nothing happens but the starter cranking, that's bad. If the engine starts and sounds like crap, good. Play with the timing untill it will hold a spark so you can run to the timing gun. Don't pull out the disty from the cam until you have run out off of space but keep in mind that most likely if you did step 1 & 2 correctly it's all good but might need a second person so you a examine the timing light while someone rotates the crank using the starter.

Just don't buy a battery from Walmart.

I think that either carb will do the same. You should put the cleanest carb onto the subby and rebuild the dirty one as a spare, when it comes down to it, the cleanest will out preform. That's a good question hopefull someone will have a better answer!

I still like the stock look for the rx Have gotten rid of that rust yet? If not, don't fell bad you should see my wagon!