MudisFun

Sorry, but I thought you said: "the bottle says PS fluid on it. im not using ATF" It's been a long night for one of us, maybe that wasn't even you...

I just spent eight hours going to town on the latest subbie (84 DL wagon). At least two cans of cleaner, one hundred q-tips, three rolls of paper towels, two small wire brushes. The inside is soooo clean! I would have did some work on the engine and drive train but I'm poor right now. After all that work I started her up to go get some beer and the lights began too dim. She died after a few seconds of getting home. Damn, it's dark so I can't get it to the electrical. All I could really do is pull and replace the charging fuse and try to jump her with the 85 GL-10. Worked for a few minutes and that was it. Alternator, most likely... She has done good so far. Last night I was crusin' with my girl and a loud noise just started up. Got of the freeway almost knowing what it was. Whipped out the tool box searching for a tool to pry with. All that I found that was long enough was my 17 mm Snap-On combo wrench, no way in hell! So I removed the bar that holds the spare tire to tight up the drive belt. Long story short, I 'got some' later because I'm cool and my family station wagon is cool. But after all that explaining why I need a back-up soob just in case. Well I guess I was sort-of right? At least I got my beer.

Dude, ATF+3!!!! When I was younger I tried to flush my PS with uni-PS, not good. Not run AFT+2 might even cause leaks, and yes ATF+3 is just a more advanced ATF+2 so both will work. I bought a GL not to long ago and the owner said the PS system leaked. Come to find out he thought that the color red was bad and meant that it needed to be replaced, that's when the leaks started.

Most of my good buddies are always calling me a damn hippy. Just because I drive a station wagon? Alright that not the only reason... Still I am the only one without a speeding ticket or DUI. Who the hell would thing a guy driving a old gen wagon is looking for trouble? And that's the story why I have never been in jail, start with a subbie, end with a subbie.

I got my old EA82 SPFI with 5 speed up to 88mph before I got worried. I even think that reaching 50mph just off the ramp was a good deal.

1st, Yes look for leaks coming from the area describe with the heater core. 2nd, Those two hoses (in and out) might be the problem. 3rd, That air could to just passing through the core, check for other leak. 4th, Head gaskets. Just did them and fix my gargle noise coming from that area. 5th, Included in 3rd. Radiator, I'm not sure of the best way to test this. 6th, Make sure the fan(s) is working. Good Luck!

I fired up my new 84 DL this morning to head down to work and the damn thing just was not keeping it's rrrs. I have made a short list of things to do to these old subbies if they run but not well: Spark Plugs, just go and spend the ten bucks. Ignition Rotor, replacing this will force you to examine the disty. Air Filter, sometime over looked. Oil Change, you would be suprised by the difference of a good synthetic. Fuel Filter, always good New Fuses, even if it looks okay doesn't mean it is. Fuel Cleaner - Carb Cleaner, a four day project worth doing. Okay, so fifty bucks later a have a car that is drive worthy! I found the problem, air filter and two spark plugs looked toast. The price might seem high but I think it is a good list for other people to use in our situation. Even though yours didn't cost a dime.:-p

Ultra Black will work! I used it for the cam towers with any problems. As for the oil pan I would suggest trying to find a cork gasket.

I have had good results with mobil one 10w30 in my EA82, can really hear the improvement in cold starting over castrol blend 10w40.

Look at the valves... Each cam only has 1 rotation per 2 engine rotations. Line up the second cyl, crank dot up, 1st cam dot up. Next crank dot up, 1st cam dot down, 2nd cam dot up. Watching the valves should give you an idea for the disty. Once the engine holds a fire then ear the timing down to a nice hum. I think you are only asking for location marks but all I can do is say that you no longer have any chance of using the flywheel but you should still be able to get her to run.

I use that stuff at work! I know how much of a pain it is to take off. If the yellow paint is on metal we use brake cleaner, but some times 10w30 and a sponge works, with a lot of MAN POWER. I like the WD40 idea, or even a white bottle of that clear 3in1 should do the trick. Lettin is sit for a while is almost pointless, the both will just need scrubing.

So already have what I need between the two engines? And what about the dual range? I hear it is best to have a 5sp D/R, but besides the tranny, gear shifter, 4wd shifter, do I need to look into a rear diff or anything else? Or maybe I should just find a trany that went with a EA82 and swap both at the same day. I sorry for bugging you guys with these stupid questions but I want to start searching for everything I to create a almost perfict 82 DL, now I'm starting to think it might have been better go with 83 GL. I guess there is love at first sight... Thanks, I can't wait to join up for the trips, but I want to be ready!

Do you think the flywheel and clutch plate could be taken of the EA81 and used for the swap?

Two qwick ones... 82 DL EA81 4WD 4speed MT I want put a EA82 MPFI out of an 2wd auto in her, I know that will take some work with the wires and computer but can you just pop it on by replacing connecting wheels (flywheel)? I would like to have the high/low 4 speeds, should that be a bunch of work?

Flowmastered, that's a damn fine list! Once I get out of school and make more than 7.50 an hour, the lot will begin! Just got a call about the 83 GL, 1:30. I figure this will be good training, that is learning to do body and restorate a subie. I planning for a year off and on and up to four grand to make everything just right. Not to bad for a new custom car $4250?

I started with a subaru, and I'll be damned if I don't end it with one! Good news the guy with the 83 is bring it to my place in the morning, I won't sleep tonight

First car - 82 Loyale Wagon 4wd MT She was $3750. Oh how I loved her so, ran the thing into the rear of 2003 Ram; it's almost funny cause I did the ramming! Second car - 80 Loyale Sedan 2wd AT I towed the wagon to my machanic and after pledding with him the car cost $1200 after the trade-in. I haven't talked to him since, the guy is an rump roast although I thank him for his help. Third car - 85 Gl-10 Sedan 2wd AT Two freinds of mine are having a baby and needed a second vehicle. Sold the almost dead for $400, that included my time to keep the damn thing running for two years. At that time school was a mile away and work was a mile away. Now that I look back at it, I'm am not cool enough to walk everywhere. A month ago I meet a guy at a redneck bar who had the Gl-10 sitting around, $600 plus $300 to get her where she is now. Soon to be Fourth car - 83 GL Wagon 4wd 4s-MT $200! I can't wait to lift it, put my EA82 MPFI in her, EVERYTHING! By now I figured I would be sleeping with older, more costly rides, but not what the hell is this about?

Yaaa synthetic!

I got a hold of a lady not too far away wanting to sell her 79 GL 4wd for $350. She said it runs but not well... I have a EA82 MPFI and she's my baby. So the question is, what would I have to do to make the swap: EA71 out, EA82 in? Also, has anyone tried to offroad an 79 Gl, was it worth it or should I look for a 81-84 instead? Thanks!

Don't buy cheap! If you want to save money don't buy a full head gasket set. I think all you really need is: R&L Valve Cover Gaskets 2 Head Gaskets 2 Intake Gaskets 2 Exhaust Gaskets 2 Of those cam tower o-rings 2 Cam shaft front Oil Seals 1 A small amount of black

It would help out a lot if you could list sounds, smells, and length of firing/starter.

Cherrypickers... I looked into that when pulling a 1.8 but when I when to our local 'true' hardware store (hardware sales in bellingham kicks rump roast!) it was three times as heavy as the engine! Who wants to load and unload that to pull a light engine? I was almost to the point of driving down town and picking up two bums with those "will work for food" signs and getting them to do it. I'm socialist, help the poor right?

Unplug the bat for two hours then plug her back into the system; see what happens :-\

Damn, I got it now! Add a switch below the driver seat to cut between the acc. power on the ignition switch! It will save the info and kill the power without having to jump start.

I would go for the hot wire a the starter, the last thing you want to do is jump start a subbie because somebody tried to steal it.