MudisFun

Any tips and/or how-to replace an oil pan gasket? I did it once on another EA82 but was only able to relpace two the bolts in the rear of the pan because of its location. I would feel a lot better doing it right because this is my baby.

I don't see why not, just stay out of gear and be CAREFUL

I know it sound wierd but a dark off green would look sweet! I have seen a few EA81-EA82 rolling around my town with that kind of job, and they made me think about the whole green thing.

The five elements for a car to run: Spark Gas Power (Computor) Timing and AIR The problem must be with one of these. If you could give me more info I might be able to help. Good Luck.

Clean the cap of good, allow the engine to warm up with the cap off. Let all the steam and crap leave the cam; I would run the car for a good ten before calling the job done(don't smoke near the car). Replace the cap and drive for two or days before checking the cap again. Most likely the cap will be clean if not change your oil and inspect all your air hoses for cracks. Winter will promote the vapor in the cams to carry a small amount of water.

Morn'in Patrick:banana:

I know that most of the relays for ea82's are under the dash, two on top of the computer and two - three relays right behind the steering wheel. I never thought of that route but next time I probable will. Switches:clap:

What you need: 30A Switch $5 20A Fuse link $3 15ft of 14g wire $3 4 butt connectors $1 1. Cut the wires leaving about three inches on the fan, then test the two wire going to the fan, find the ground. Use a connector to extend the ground wire of the fan, there sould be a good ground to frame screw nere the air filter box (if fi). 2. Test the wires going to the wiper blade motor. You should find that there are two types of power lines, there is one wire that will be hot after the key is on, the other power wires are controlled by wiper switch. Cut that wire (after disconnecting the battery) and use a connector to splice in the 20A fuse. Other the other end of this fuse link use another connector for a good eight to ten feet of wire. 3. Run the middle of this wire down into the inner car. After you struggle with that damn boot cut the wire at about three feet from the fuse. Remove a switch cover (one of the two) and rig the switch into the panel cover. It is best if you buy a switch with a jam nut that way you can just drill a hole into the panel and relpace it. The job will look a lot better if you are able use the panel. 4. At this point you realize that it was a great idea to run the middle section instead of running the end of the wire into the car. For the ground use one of the hood pop bracet screws. That should only take two feet of wire. Now get the three wires attached to the switch. Pull the slack from the wire still just chill'n under the hood. Use you last connector to attach that wire to the power of the fan. 5. Reconnect the battery. Turn the key on and check for the fan. If she works, make sure EVERY mod wire is safe and in a good spot. Good luck!!!

The cheaper way is probably that of the over paid mechanic. Replace the first fuse and move that one down the line.

Spend time doing ohm testing after finding the ground and the switch's light power... I really don't understand the need for so many damn wire for a switch.

The front of head or can cover gasket could show up in the same area maybe even on the bottom of the timing cover.

Dude, I tried for you; three sources and nothing. I'm guessing that you are adding a switch to control after market lights? Your best bet, if this is true, would be to drill a hole in the acc switch cover and but a cheap 'fuse bus' plastic switch - three wires (ground, power, acc out), the way it should be. If this is not the case, taking a look at the rear defog switch might help you convert between wire set up. Good Luck!!!

Don't feel too bad. My heater stopped working a week ago. Tested all of the fuses three damn times and then did a quick look over. A about four hours into it (dash board apart, wires every where, 25F outside) I needed to get the car ready for work. Plug in the relays and comp, test the fuses one more time only to find that the ingition 15A has gone out!!!!!!!!!!!!! Heater workers.:-\

From under the hood everything looks like a newer GL or an older Loyale. FI would be the only big difference; 85 GL-10- MPFI or Turbo, I don't know the options for the 84 though. I even believe they have the same wiring harness. Inside as was said already, digi dash, power everything, and things is a bit better looking. As few mix and matching parts I have been getto rigging parts from a 90 Loyale into my GL-10 MPFI.

But which one is the subaru filter? The blue, gray, white, or black bosch?

This might not help, probably won't. There is a switch under the dash near the acc. peddle. When the switch is pressed in by the arm the auto-trans this will also cause a down shift (I think?). If you hear a good click, forget it. I must say I'm am not a man of electrical so if anyone wishes to correct please do.

I love my 85 GL-1O and I want to show it. As far as the oil goes I used castrol syntec, but I hear amsoil might be best bet. As far as grade, I just don't know, 10w-40 seems to be the best idea but with 125K I wouldn't mind having it a bit thicker. It would be great to get some opinions. I always hear the genuine subaru oil filters are the best. Last time I put on a k&n. This next time I want to go all the way! When searching for the filters I found four: White - American?- crap $5 Blue - NPN- $5.97 Black - Bosch - $3.84 Gray - Denso - $8.66 By first look I would use a bosch, but does anyone have info on the npn or denso?

Talk to your local tech school and find out where they are sending the auto body students.

Replace the thermostat making sure the the dome is pointing towards the engine and the spring is towards the rad. I have seen EA82s were the thermostat is installed reverse by an ignorant owner because most come with a arrow marking up when the arrow should mark down. Fans are a big part also. Most of the time the electrical fan switch will go out disabling the fan. You can fix the sensor or spend the time to run the fan off of the blue/yellow (?) wire going to the wiper motor. This can be a fun project. In my 85 and 90 there is a five dollar switch near the steering wheel that controls the electric fan. Price wise it makes sense: fan switch sensor $35, getto rig $15 (including two 20a fuses). The third problem I could think of is the water pump but if the coolant is flowing just fine don't even think about it.

I just picked one of these 85 GL-10 MPFI and it is sweet! It has only 122K! Cost six hundred but am looking forward to putting the engine in an old gl wagon, once I can get cash. Here is a list of quick fixes I have done so far: Thermostat and gasket fan and fan switch Water pump Belts Extreme Fluid Flush, all fluids Tune up - plug, wires, cap, and rotor Went to Napa and spent fourty on junk Other than the holes in the muffler she sound great! I'm starting to dig the digital display A good buddy is crushing his 90 and I can't wait to mix and match. So yah, only one thing wrong with the beast, everything needs lube!

thanks for the help!!!! I'll keep you guys updated so everyone gets a pat on the back.

I went to replace the halfshafts on a 4wd Manual 91 Loyale for a friend. Here are the steps I took until I could take no more. 1. Lifted left front end and removed tire 2. Removed cotter pin and castle nut from halfshaft, also knocked the the inner spring pin to create 'play' 3. Removed brake caliper & housing, rotor and hung them up 4. Removed tie rod from steering knuckle, used a pickle 5. Removed cotter pin and castle nut from lower arm 6. Removed the two upper strut bolts, one pinch and housing connector, this did not cause the knuckle (spindle housing) to be released because the wrap of the strut and the knuckle are one piece; I have never seen this before 7. Removed the lower arm pinch bolt 8. Loosened the lower joint but was not able to remove assembly because the tension on both the lower arm and the spring 9. Read a shop manual 10. Scratched my head. So this is where I am at. I have never dealt with a one piece knuckle-housing; before, it was not an issue of forcing the knuckle down three inches, with is impossible due to the tension of the lower arm, to dislocate the strut and remove the halfshaft. I got down to the point that I thought of braking out my spring compressors. Well it happened, and still not enough room to lift that damn strut out of the knuckle. The only part of disassembly that does not make sense is was stage 6 (lower arm pinch bolt). after putting the thing back together and looking at the manual again I realized that poping the lower joint was never called for. I don't think it could be possible but I'm stuck, will the joint stay in the lower arm if I do not remove the castle nut from the stud? That would mean the a 'housing' would come out of the lower knuckle? I need some help:banghead: