Sapper 157

yeah thats what I did fox. Hard to tell but I think its purring just a little better now

And ill take a look at RockAuto, see if their prices are better. thx for the tip

haha I guess so... something interesting, it says on both old and new filters MADE IN ISRAEL. interesting. i didnt know Israel made auto parts.

162,300 mi on my baby. Still got a lot of life left in it and im gonna do my best to help it along.

I have a 1984 4spd Gl wagon and the length was 34.5 inches. it really depends if your engine is a 1600 or an 1800. I would go to O'reillys, tell em your cars model, year, and engine. From that info they should be able to look thru their computers and find the right cable

Got a new one at my local auto parts store for $3.39, didnt even have to go to O'reillys.

Oh my bad. I misunderstood your comment, bratman2

Yeah I already replaced the one under the hood thanks for the offer but im just gonna hit O'reillys

Im gonna grab a MICROGARD filter from O'rielly Auto Parts for $3.29.

Ok thanks. I replaced the one under the hood in early july. I'll Replace this one ASAP because Im pretty sure neither has been changed in the thirty years the car has been on the planet.

Ok so I was under my wagon tonight replacing the differential fluid when I saw this little sweetheart. is this another fuel filter? (Well I take that back I know that it's a fuel filter, I just don't know what kind of fuel filter it is) could someone give me some info on it? it's located underneath the car just behind the back passenger side tire. Thanks all!

That's actually exactly what I did bratman, I expected it to smoke since I have done it with snowmobiles before but thanks anyways.

thanks for the help anyway rd

I have a 1984 4-door hatchback GL wagon. I ordered one from Oriley Auto Parts for $30.

haha yep rdweninger, sure am! Im no expert but I know my way around them. currently I have a good ol 1996 Arctic Cat 480 JAG Z equipped with polymer racing skis. By no means the most impressive sled out there but it'll get you where you need to go. Reliable too. Thanks for the reassurance on the seafoam guys!

Ok so I have used seafoam engine additive quite extensively over the years to solve various carb and fuel problems. A common practice that I do each winter is to pour about two tablespoons of this "miracle liquid" into the carburetors of my snow machines. 95% of the time this will instantly clear up any problems with excelling, idling, or any other combustion related problems. I have torn down my carbs and all the machines that went through this little ritual are either completely clean or only need a quick blowout, while the ones that i didnt do this with are usually very dirty. So my question is, Does anyone think it would hurt my carb on my subie to do this? I ask because i know that there are obvious differences (size, 2-cycle snowmobile vs 4-cycle subaru), as well as many technical differences, between carbs on snowmobiles and carbs on subarus. Does anyone think it would hurt it? and if so, why?

Ok thanks rd and fox. Fox, how do I check to see if the 75w stuff is compatible with synchromesh? will it say on the bottle? And yes the gear oil I have in the tranny right now is GL-5 spec. no shifting problems here is what it says about the oil i bought: Super Tech 75W-90 Syn-Blend Gear Oil is formulated with conventional and synthetic base oils to provide superior gear protection over a wide range of operating and ambient temperatures. Made with premium extreme pressure additives, rust preventatives, and antifoam additives, this oil protects hypoid gears, manual transmissions, gearboxes, passenger car and light truck conventional differentials, transmission and steering gears. Super Tech 75W-90 Syn-Blend Gear Oil, 1 Quart: Formulated with 100 percent synthetic base oils Provides superior gear protection Made with premium extreme pressure additives, rust preventatives and antifoam additives Meets API GL-5 and MT-1, MACK GO-J, SAE J2360 and Top Off of Limited Slip specifications Model# WM7590PL Made in the USA Does all that sound ok to you? as in, I shouldnt need to replace my tranny oil again

Wow thanks fox! that was a lot of very helpful info. currently I am running 10W-30 Quaker State brand, full synthetic oil in mine with a FRAM ultra premium filter. the slight oil leak I had on the front main and oil pump have cleared up since i put in some stopleak. Ok so this would be a great question for you: I just redid my tranny oil about a month ago. I read online that I should use 75W-90 Gear lube oil. I was rummaging through my Chilton repair manual for info on the rear differential tonight when I stumbled across a section which said to use 85W-90 gear lube. So my question is, Do I have to redo my gear lube again or is it ok to run 75W in my tranny?

And by the way im not 100% sure I know what you mean when you say ATF. I always thought that stood for Automatic Transmission Fluid? so what exactly do you mean when you say ATF?

I need some new shocks (also called "gas stays") to lift up the hatchback on my wagon. Anyone know where I can pick some up?

Try putting stopleak in the oil it might take care of your cam seal leak. I put some in mine and it cleared up all my minor oil leaks (front main, oil pump, oil filter area) and im running 10w 30 full synthetic. I also put it in my transmission and it stopped a pretty bad tranny leak. maybe worth a shot. No I'm in Warm Lake area.

Ok so I took your guys advice and got a factory thermo for $24.

If you still have minor to moderate leaks after you pull your engine and replace the gaskets and what not, try putting a couple bottles of STOPLEAK in your oil. I have had great results with it in my wagon thus far.

Would your old engine buck or jerk if you didn't rev it a fair amount?

I think the STOPLEAK worked at least for my minor oil leak. I added a second bottle to the tranny today to see if that will clear it up. I think the tranny leak is getting better since I added the first bottle of Stopleak, so hopefully this second bottle will clear it up completely. I guess only time will tell now.