yohy

There are two sets of pads, called stabilizers that support the window. Sometimes grit gets caught between the pad and the window, this will create the "fingernails on a blackboard" sound. If this is where the sound is coming from, try either adjusting the pad (you will have to take the inner door panel off) or flushing around the pad. The attachment will detail the position of the stabilizers (#2).

Chip, You might want to pose this question to the folks over at NASIOC, http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/index.php?. Oh, they do have a forum specifically for Brakes, Steering & Suspension. My guess is someone has tried it or can give you some specific answer.

Sorry folks, the assemblies in the picture were from a '97 OBW 2.5 (on left) and a '97 L 2.2 (on right). I guess I should have seen the original posters location and considered the various options...plus not knowing the MY of the vehicle.

mrtoyou7747 is correct, there is a screen (sock) on the pickup of the fuel pump assembly, which is on the right (passenger) side of the vehicle. I have attached a picture of two assemblies, look at the bottom of both and you will see the filters. I really doubt you will need to fool with those, just replace the under hood filter. If you really want to take the fuel pump assembly out, the biggest issue I had was getting the hoses off and then tucking them out of the way to remove the assembly. Oh, you do have to contort the assembly to snake it out of the opening.

I have attached the wiring diagram from the FSM for my '97 L. I will let the electrical wizards decipher the meaning(s) of all those black lines. Also, I remember when I was bench testing the sending units, there were values assigned for the position of the float relative to the amount of fuel. I can't find the values, but remember the closer you got to full, the less resistance was generated. Can anyone update with the correct values.

Add me to the weird group. mike97, I did both sides on my ’97 L when my gauge went whacko. Now I didn’t try the Techron route but I did pull both units out, sprayed the contact points with contact cleaner, hit them with a pencil eraser; put them back in the car….and you know what…the gauge worked. As you have read, the left side comes out easily, the right side, with the fuel pump, you have to contort around to get it out and back in again. As it cost very little other than your time, it might be worthwhile.

How 'bout this one, any closer: Subaru Legacy Outback 2002 Service Manual http://pdftown.com/PDF-Subaru-Legacy-Outback-2002-Service-Manual.html

or how about this....how do you get gum out of the kid's hair...ice cubes. If heat won't soften it, how about making it harder?

WD-40 works great for glue residue.

Another potential download site is: http://pdftown.com/Subaru-PDF-eBook-Category.html it get's a bit wonky, so you might have to try a couple of times to get download to start.

Why I will always read a post from nipper, thanks for your knowledge and your humor.

pearlm30, my strongest suggestion would be to read through the following thread,with a focus on post #2 by SmashPDX: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2489&highlight=vibration This is by far the most informative post on the dreaded auto trans vibration in gear that I have read. Yes, I had the same problem when I replaced both axles on my '97 L auto.

Have either of the front axles been replaced?

We had the car in the air twice and they still couldn't isolate which bearing was making noise.

PM replied to.

With my '97 Legacy L sedan, I was able to get the cover off without taking the entire assembly off the car. This was learned after the first time removing the whole thing, which I will warn you, is quite heavy if working alone. The last time was two years ago and again I was able to remove just the cover... so the process is a bit foggy (old age issues, me not the car)..but, remove the mud flaps, then one plastic fastener (possibly two) along the rear wheel well openings, then as subaru360 mentions, there are 10mm bolts that fasten the top of the cover as it goes into the wheel well (you kinda have to get into the wheel well to see them). Then a few bolts along the bottom of the cover and the trick, there are two long, black bolts that come through the rear of the car, remove the nuts off of these long bolts and you should be able to slide the cover off the car. Now if you can't get the mud flaps off the car (those fasteners always seem to rust badly), you will need to remove one more item on each side. There is a capture mechanism along each side, if you have the mud flaps off, you can slide the cover off, but if you can't get the mud flaps off, you will need to release the capture devices. This is done by taking off the nuts on the device from the inside, under the carpet liner. They sit about midway along the side and are probably a 10mm nut, once released you should be able to flex the bumper cover out to clear the mud flaps and remove the cover. It sounds confusing (took me doing the job twice to understand the best way to do it) but just take your time and if it feels stuck, you forgot something. Best of luck and let me know if you need further.

reply sent.

mountaingoatgruff OK, I have downloaded the .pdf and will burn it to a cd if you wish. Just PM me with your home address and I will drop it in the mail tomorrow.

Interesting, I just hit the mirror site and it started to download a 47 meg file. I canceled the download but it did seem to be working. As mentioned it a rather finicky site.

Try this: http://pdftown.com/Subaru-Impreza-1993--1996-Workshop-Manual.html This should give you the complete FSM for your vehicle. Now this site gets a bit finicky, so you might have to try it a few times. Oh, try both the "download" and the "mirror" links.

singletrack, shoot me a pm with your email address and I will send you the pages from the FSM for door panel removal and the info on the front exterior door handle. Oh, getting the panel off is easy but there is a trim piece around the inner door handle that is a real pain to get off. It's one of those that just when you think the fool thing is going to splinter in your hand, it pops off. Should anyone have a tip on removing that piece, please jump in. After that, it's a couple of screws and then popping the plastic clips that hold the door panel.

'03 Impreza RS with a deep humming noise and a pulsing wooh, wooh, wooh sound. Had it to two Subaru dealerships and two independent shops, all heard it but none could positively identify the noise, either front wheel bearing or the start of a differential problem. All agreed to let it get worse. Anyhow, it did start to get louder and more consistent so decided just to replace the left front wheel bearing which most thought was the culprit. Well it took care of some of the noise, but not all. Replaced the right front and bingo, noise gone. So, both front wheel bearings on a car with less than 60K. Shop said looked like water got into both and hence why rolling the car side to side produced no real change in the noise as they were BOTH bad. Oh well but the noise is now GONE.

Here are the dimensions of the axle I used for my '97, now EMPI's catalog shows this application for all Legacy's 90-98 fronts.

turboguzzi, about a 1.5 years ago I had some issues replacing both front axles on my '97 Legacy L at. I used new EMPI axles after which I started to get the dreaded vibration with car in gear but at a stop. If anyone has had this issue I would recommend they read through this post:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2489&highlight=vibration but back to your question, in researching this issue, I did get a response from the technical department at Cardone regarding compressed axle length: "the compressed measures 26 7/8 +/-0.125 inches", again this was for my application but should give you a starting point.

turboguzzi, I have attached a section from the EMPI axle catalog that deals with "axle tips", where they give you tips on compatibility, like: Number of splines, seal surface diameters, ABS rings, etc. Give it a look, oh on page 5 there is a section on Subaru axles. DANG, the .pdf must be too large. Go here:http://www.empius.com/2008_driveaxles/drive_axles.html and lower right of the center section, download:Axle Tips - download Sorry about that.