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You fingers are better than you eyes. Run your fingers over the area with marks. If you can feel any gasket still on there do your best to remove it.

the old trick is to fin a piece of plate glass and use that to back your sand paper. Preferably larger than the head surface.

Somebody reccomended the GR2s to me several years ago and I've had them on two cars now. My current Forester has had them for nearly 40,000 miles and they still feel fine. With a WRX swaybar in the rear the cornering is far better than stock on the Forester with much less roll. It's nice that both ends drift at about the same time with no big surprises like old 911 Porsches gave you. The "oh ************" feeling of suddenly having one end let go. I'd certainly buy another set if these ever give up.

Somebody probably fixed it for you. No need if the screws are tight and nothing is damaged.

Depends on where you live and how you use it. A Legacy type would be a pain to me as I do lots of city driving. When I have had people in back there is little footroom in the Forester. My opinion is the Legacy or OBW are better for trips as they are roomier and the Legacy itself handles better than either OBW or Forester. The Forester is a good choice for city living and hauling furniture which I seem to do far too often. Not a lot of difference in mileage and pretty much the same running gear.

Check the mythbuster's website. They did most mpg boosters, maybe not this one since it is so obscure. New plugs and a valium would be better for your mileage.

No Gene, the hydraulics should move forward when there is play and take it up. We can write about this forever but nothing is going to change. You may get by for a bit by bleeding and you may not. If it was my kid's car I'd change the hydraulics regardless because they have hit the sell by date. Fact hydraulic clutches are easy to operate and build. Fact. For durability they suck. Give me a mechanical linkage any day and I'll just push harder and save $200 every few years. My leg will be stronger too.

From below for me too.

It really has to be a labor of love. Do yourself a favor and get an entire car to strip parts from. I have been back to junkyards so many times for one tiny item and learned the hard way. These days I'd just get a car with a manual as I no longer have the time I used to use doing stuff like this. If you are young and have the energy have at it.

We may be old TC but we ain't stupid yet.

Oooh, just reread this, that sounds sad. Tranny may be easier.

Actually your hydraulics are not working. You should be able to have no ability to move it froward by hand. Start by bleeding it and that might get you by temporaily, but it's not a real fix. I have only seen maybe 50 of these that acted the same way, best to bite the bullet and change the hydraulics. Check the hose to as there was a TSB on some of them for hose and slave, I changed them but it was not cured on mine util I did the master. Anythime your clutch starts on its way to the floor with hydruaulcis it is time to at least bleed the system. Then it gets to the point where you can pull it up with your foot and that's when you had best do domething unless you like driving without a clutch release. Been there and done that, hard to throw the toll when you don't want to stop and they yell at you.

The salve and master should last about 100,000 miles or several years. My 99 has already required both. The clutch pedal often sticks to the floor when either are shot. Chnge both and you are good for another several years.

Do you have no flow from both tubes? I ask because the radiator cooler section is known to block sometimes. The answer to that one is an external cooler.

My local hardware stores has a circlip selection. Does yours? If not the time honored circlip relacement is to circle it with mechanic's wire in the slot and twist off.

It's miserable enough to set preload on a regualr rear end. You used to have to use grease or mechanic's blue to see the contact patch. Adjust ability is good becuse otherwise you have to use shims. Never done it on a Subaru and don't want to. If you set it back exactly where you go it it will be fine, but otherwise you can run into gear whine or worst case running on the gear edge and haveing it break, very expensive error.

Call Rudy at San Carlos transmission 650-622-9210. He fixed mine and perhaps he can point you in the right direction. If you can get the car up on a lift and move a stethascope back and forth, if your noise is in the transfer case that may be the problem.

I was trying to figure that out myself. I have a 99 Forester that I'm planning on eventually using a 2.2 in. I'll have to check to see if it has EGR. The extra bolts would seem to me to make it necessary to use a 99 up 2.2.

This could sound kind of like my car. It made noise while backing off for a couple of years. I posted here and setright assured me that many old Subie manuals did that and kept on going. Well mine did for maybe 40,000 miles before the transfer case blew. There is a spacer in the rear of the case that keeps the rear bearing from allowing movement of the gear set back and forth. After some time the transfer gears wear a bit and create play. The gearset then moves backward under load and slams the spacer, and moves forward causing a slight mismesh and noise while backing off. This eventually work hardens the spacer and in my case it shattered. At that point spacer parts went through the rear bearing and into the gearset.This totally trashed gearset and rear bearing and actually locked the car up for a moment. This is really no surprise to Subaru as there is a fix for it. You just install a thicker rear bearing and remove the spacer. Now, $1700 poorer I know this. All I needed to do when I first heard the noise was pull off the tail and change to the thicker bearing, maybe $150.

Years ago I heard of a car that ate brake fluid no one could find a leak on. It turned out that a pinhole in the vacum chamber sucked fluid into the engine. No idea if this could happen to a Subaru.

Boy does geaseing or anti siezing splines make a difference. After all that effort to get my axles out I had a defective one changed in the shop that rebuilt my tranny. The guy hit it twice with a plastic hammer.

I'd go with the old Nipster here. At 270,000 miles the clutch plates should have quite a bit of wear as well as everything else being a bit tired. those engage somewhat slowly when they are in good shape and wear will just make them later. If it becomes unuseable I'd also look for used first, one of those is actually easier to find than the later ones. I just wasted a lot of time looking for a 99 Forester tranny and since it has moved to the additional bolt holes it was tough. Along the way though I saw a number of used automatics that would have fit your car. At that mileage I'd be tempted to drive it as long as it was working.

My Forester was a @#$%^& to get the hub out of one side. The other came out with a hub and drum puller and a couple whacks with a six pound sledge. The drivers side took me most of a day and the puller was grinding chips off the axle and distorting when it finally came free with a four foot pipe on the puller nut. I think without the sledge hammer I'd still be there. Somebody may have gotten some of those Forester axles in with a little too tight a press fit. I suppose it could have had some corrosion but everything else was pretty clean. A really good puller would help like a professional job with hammers on the end of the puller. The cheap Chinese auto parts on I used nearly died on the job.

BMW also uses a grease. It is compounded to stay put. You do the back and the metal sides of the pad where it touchs the caliper only.

I found both of my front ones failed between the same oil change. Of course one might have been gone for a while and I didn't notice until i was doing the other.