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I have my Forester apart for axles if a spline count on mine would help it's a 99. I got the passenger side off with a hub and drum puller but it is begining to chew up the puller trying to remove the driver's side. Man is that tight, it laughed at my six pound sledge hammer.

I've got Big O Aspens and they have been fine.

an interesting thread to me. Over the years I have traded a number of things both ways with good results. I have sent hard to find bits to friends in Canada and have been sent stuff like fine thread metrics that are tough to come by here. Also British motorcycle bits seem easier to find there. Since this has never been for profit authorities have been reasonable on both sides. Folks who live by the border have always bought in the cheapest country. Those big shopping centers in Maine would starve if not for the Canadian tourists.

A lot of us would use a Subru belt. They have marks for the timeing that after market belts sometimes do not have.

Wow, that's a full service place. Good score.

Unfortunatly HC tests only seem to work on Subies when they are pretty shot gaskets. Several folks have reported that the gasket seals up when cold until it slowly gets worse. Sounds like a bad gasket to me that is still in the early stage and perhaps easy to fix.

it sounds like an air lock to me. I dirvie it around the block and put the front up on ramps and open the bleeder with the engine running. Then I let it cool down and refill. sometimes it can be a bear to get air out. Warm air out of the heater is key. The heater is higher and often holds air.

When ever you remove a pan type like the subaru oil pans I was told to straighten them carefully before installation. do the edges and take out any warpage around bolt holes. time consuming but it really helps. If you are unlikly to remove it again try Permatex "The Right Stuff." I just did a rear end housing with that stuff and it really seals. No gasket needed and is OEM for several cars.

you can often replace two slaves to one master. The slave works harder and is smaller making it go bad more easily. This does not always work because like anything else parts can just fail. The odds are in your favor that it is the slave, but on my car it was the master that was the real culprit. I took subaru's advice first and only changed the master when I was sure I was not getting sufficent pressure. I bet when I was a mechanic I changed 50 slaves on Ford C750s and only a couple of masters.

On my 99 Forester both of them were very easy to change. I believe you have to remove part of the aircleaner assembly which would be the intake chamber or whatever. Thank God you don't have a BMW as this is miserable on my Roadster. Welcome to the world of hydraulic clutches, this is standard for these. On trucks they were the most common failure. Your 02 is failing at just about the age my 99 did. The good thing is that if you change both of them you are good for another 100,000 miles or so. You can often limp by a while by bleeding but it is not a real fix. The air got in there somehow and it is usually from wear and failing seals. If they are far enough gone even bleeding won't help.

Bleed the clutch and it may go for quite a while. On my 99 Forester I performed the service bulletin at about 90,000 miles and it was still not quite right. After I changed the clutch master the car has been over 30,000 miles with no furthur problem.

My instuctions would be.. Get test light and find connector in trunk. Make sure light is grounded and put on the left signal with key on. When it flashes you have found left. Repeat as needed.

I also have a 99 Forester with original wheel bearing and well over 130,000 on it. I think CA roads and the lack of corrosion may help. I have heard folks say that the seal areas are very critical to good life on the replacement Legacy bearings. It may be necessary to replace any corroded surface to extend life.

I've switched my 138,000 miles Forester back and forth between synthetic and dino oil a few times. I was trying to see if I could cut the piston slap a bit. I probably would use dino in your car if I had it. I'm currently running Havoline 5-30 which oddly enough is fairly quiet. I hate losing my extended intervals of synthetic but the Havoline is cheap and I only have to change it a couple times a year. On an old engine there is little payback from synthetic as you burn and leak more.

Plug wires too.

No.

since newer rules are requireing water based paint many manufacturers are having paint problems. The paint my BMW has is chipping worse than my Forester. Think green and compalin to your Subaru rep if the dealer does not help. On my BMW I have repainted the hood with PPG which beats heck out of the stock paint.

With that kit they put a pin into the gear behind it did they not?

It was good for being in the way when I change the oil on my Forester. I live in CA so it is not keeping snow out of there at which it may be useful. I have seen no noticeable difference on my car in the year I've had it off. If I can still find it I'll give it to the next owner.

I'm glad you got it fixed. I was going to suggest Viagra but that doesn't always work.

You might do a search on this. Seems like somebody has fitted a Ford joint in the past.

Only complaints I've heard are fuel mileage and tickets, both of which may be owner related.

Say three novenas ans drive the heck out of it. Should be fine.

I also have some very distinctive nicks and dents.

I've done several oil swaps with mine and it gives very good oil reports from Blackstone. I got it with 10-30 dino, tried 10-30 Mobil 1 and it did not help my piston slap. I tried Mobil 1 15-50 and it did quiet the slap a bit. now I'm running Havoline 5-30 which is pretty quiet when new and gets louder as it ages. Modern oils are pretty compatible and some folks mix thier own syn with some dino.