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I think my Forester is about 130,000 now and runs better than when I bought it several years ago. It does burn about a quart of oil every couple of months but looks like it may see 200,000 with no more major work.

I now wish I had gone for the upgraded package in our Forester. It had better seats, rear discs, and seat warmers. I would have liked the rear discs and my wife enjoys the seat warmers in our BMW.

ther is a ton of head room in my Forester. The back seat foot room is tight though.

About mid 2003 they started fitting the current head gaskets. I'm not sure anyone knows just when as stocks have to run out.

A lot of the folks on this board have replaced thier struts. I'll let the rust state folks comment here because here in CA mine just unbloted fairly easily. The toughest thing here is installing the springs with cheap spring clamps. There are a couple of ways to get around this like getting a recently replaced set of struts from a junkyard complete with springs or having a shop install springs for you. It's DIY job if you have some tools and don't mind a bit of grundge and a struggle.

Another scary tale that seems to be ending well. Glad everyone made it OK, cars can always be replaced. Best wishes for a speedy reecovery.

Yep, if you've changed the sensor and have a rotten egg smell and rattles... In Hayward CA there was a place that rebuilt cats, not sure if they are still there. That's what I put on my last car and it was still going several years later.

For rear seat space you can't beat the Outback. I have hauled five folks in the Forester on xmas trips and the rear seat riders are short of footroom. With the Outback a set of head gaskets and you should be good to go.

I've got a couple of used amps in the garage. I wonder if it would be worth shipping an old amp, they are kind of heavy. these have no directions but I believe the hookup is pretty standard.

If you can get the 2.0 in the Forester grab that. I'd be surprised if the rear wheel bearings have not been replaced with Legacy ones by now down there. You can't beat a 2.0 to death with a stick. Do a search on 2.5 head gaskets and make up your mind.

It's been a few years and I think it cost $60 for the ox sensor when mine got PO420. Two places told me cats. I'd sure try the ox sensor first since they time out at about 100,000 miles anyway.

OK, that one broke me up!

You know O is right next to the P....

Don't expect miracles from the OCV valve. If it is defective it can cause you to burn oil, but a lot of older engines will use some anyway. For six bucks it can't hurt but it made no difference at all on my car. You do not find the most highly trained mechanics in the average oil change shop If folks are not familiar with the oddball Subaru oil checking it ca be pretty strange. Check the oil the same way and at the same temperature every time. When Subaru oil gets warm it shows more and this can make the difference between showing on the stick or not. I warm mine up and check at the same gas staion most times. I pop the hood and pull and wipe off the dip stick and then pump the gas. When the gas is done I reinsert the dip stick and see how much oil I have and top up.

My 99 forester with 140,000 miles uses a bit of oil. It stays longer when freshly changed but as it gets tired one day it just is gone. I check the oil with each fill up and keep a quart in the back. No problem and I expect to see 200,000 miles with little change except a bit more oil burning. Don't add any more goop, it won't help an older engine that burns a bit of oil. Just keep oil and water in it.

Seems like a lot of folks have complained about Ouback clunks. You might do a search on it.

Did you have the engine running while you bled it?

I doubt it, you probably had a bubble. If you still have the stat just put it in a pan of water on the stove. If it fails to open at the temperature marked on it, it's defective. The Subaru stats I have seen have a small hole that allows air to escape as a lot of newer cars require. My BMW does too. Getting the water to circulate above the flat engine and get all that air out is tough sometimes.

I've had a few of them with a bubble i could not get out until I drove it. It seems to me that they rarely get them but when they do it is a bear.

I used to caefully cover the interior, pull the cable out and reinstall it through a grapite lued rag at the head. This may have changed long ago.

I suspect a good solid air bubble, get it warm enough to open the thermostat and keep bleeding. Squeeze thew hose by the thermostat and see if it bubbles and if it is hot on the other side of stat.

If oil is leaking on a phase 1 I doubt it is an headgasket. Try emailing Gnuman and see if he is still willing to travel. You need help from somebody who knows what they are doing.

If it is a real leak the level will go down. If it is condensation you will get a colored drip out the rear becuse the water takes on color from the grubbey exhaust system.

Fill it again and run it for a while, then do a short spin and refill. If it is no peeing water out some stem may be normal from a recently serviced car. If the thermostat in it is working try leaving it for a while. If it does not lose water on the ground and does not overheat it might be fine.

Later BMWs have thermostats integrated into engine management. They are quite expensive to replace as you have to change the entire housing. I'm not sure how they work even though I helped change one. Kind of interesting, no hose clamps, the hose just snaps on the later cars and just a couple wires out with a connector.