habib99

ok,...what is IAC? Edit: Ahhh think I've worked it, idle adjust screw???

EA82T What do you do with the 'auxilary air valve'? Not sure about leaving it as the MS wont know what it's doing -wont this make tuning/idle hard?

Thanks, that looks like a really good start at least, cheers. That car does have an EA82T doesnt it? CANT WAIT to get the MS running now

Hi, been looking for a good starting point for a megasquirt setup on an EA82T I realise that fine tuning will be an individual thing but looking for some basic setup for my MS (just ordered the kit -Version PCB3 MS I) going to run extra code with wasted spark for ignition off a trigger wheel and VR sensor (welded to the crank pulley). thanks if anyone has any data or a link to somewhere useful. Habib

Bummer dude! you never know a 300 dolllar non-runner could have been fine and gone for another hundred thousand miles, just bad luck this time :-\ Dont know about good suppliers over there but think people use: https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html and http://www.allsubparts.com/ Good luck.

you may be better off in the retrofit forum with this question. the bolt pattern on the gearbox is different for a start, dont know of anyone who makes a conversion for that particular switch -funny cause you can get a conversion kit to put a EA81 in a VW or a EA82 in a VW! Why not just get the EA81 rebuilt -some say they are a better engine enyway!

thanks buddy, that is exactly the kind of info I needed. Now I can get to testing it.

thanks but that is a test for the dash temp gauge sender, I think the coolant temp sender (for the ECU) is a different sender. But that kind of thing using a multimeter on the wires is what I want to know -i.e. what should the output be when cold/hot etc

Hi, ongoing problems with my EA82T. Tried swapping my coolant temp sender and cleaning the contacts but would like to just check it. Can anyone tell me what to measure on the ECU end of the wires if I splice into them and use a multimeter (presume its a resistance measurement)? Thanks

Thanks to everyone for all your advice, I couldnt have got as far as I have on this project without this board. I am very greatfull. You all ROCK!!

thanks for this advice, I'm to sure what to make of my idle and warm up problems but will get to the bottom of it in the end, does a slight pick up in revs just as a take my foot off the gas mean anything? While I'm trying to get it warmed up I can just about keep it going by gently pumping the gas pedal, it revs a bit when pressing down and then seems to burst a little when I release too. yeah my name is arabic, but i am Welsh! strange but true! thanks again.

Thanks man, that is very useful. I guessed that heat closed the valve but had no idea that 12v alone would close it completely after 10 mins. So in theory if it is stuffed I can test whether this is the cause of my problem by rigging it open, then at least it should start and idle ok until warmed up what will happen if I run the engine hot with this valve open?

Trying to get my EA82T to idle when cold. latest thing I'm checking is the air bypass valve (the black thing on top of the thermostat housing) Can someone confirm how it should function? So far I know that 12volts crosses the terminals when the fuel pump is active. When I take the valve off to look at it, it is slightly open - not completely open but definately not closed. But it doesnt change position when the 12volt current is live or switched off. How can I test it? thanks for advice. btw other things I have tried are coolant temp gauge -swapped, and contacts cleaned up, vacume and PCV pipes checked -cant find any leaks.

I only got rid of the mechanical fan because I've put the engine in a kit car and the rad is in a different location.

So not necassarily the MAF or its wiring. the oil cap is kind of loose even when it is on, it gets tight but then as you make the final twist it loosens a bit -is this normal? I could check this out by simply putting my hand over the oil hole. So does the same go for all the ventilation pipes that go all over the place?, a few of them are a bit stiff and brittle and it is difficult to tell how well sealed they are. thanks again.

Soooooo my quest to get this EA82T running continues.... Couldnt get the engine to idle when cold, it just about splutters with the gas pedal being pumped and when I finally got it hot it ran a bit better but not 100%. mdjdc on here suggested MAF could be faulty, at first I assumed it wasnt because it was working fine in the donor car before I swapped but then in depseration I tried it unplugged, lo and behold it idles pretty much noramlly, but wont rev up that well. Is this diagnostic? My initial thought was that the MAF must be faulty -or the wiring to it, but then it occured to me that unplugging it may just compensate for other problems. Any adivce on this would be great. and thanks to 'mdjdc' for the initial pointer. Habib

hmm bit lower than I acn manage with my setup but if it's not damaging to run at 220 constantly then I'll be ok I think. btw do people think that just off of the thermostat housing is a sensible place to take a reading? I was working on the assumption that this is where the water exits the engine on the way TO the radiator?

thanks, so at idle i'm reading about 180 and the fan kicks in about 185 (two electric fans - no belt driver) I'll take it for a run and see how hot it gets! 230 = danger danger!!! I'll keep that in mind!

OK so after a bit of messing about I've got the engine to run a bit better, gets better once it is warmed up. What I need to know is -What is a healthy temperature for the engine to run at? I have a thermometer in the pipe between the thermo and rad. Thanks Habib

thanks

So as a part of my problem solving I wanna check ignition timing, would I be right to connect a strobe light to ignt lead #1 with the green connectors connected? plus am I right thinking that facing the engine from the front the number 1 spark plug is nearest front on your left. thanks.

OK been out to check a few things: Voltage to pump -fine all the time. ECU big red power supply fine. Wiring to MAF (hot wire) I think ok - as far as I can tell. I can force it to carry on running by pumping the gas, but it runs rough and there's the odd pop, missfire. I think it runs a LITTLE better with the two green connectors connected -not sure about this but it is a slight difference. With the two green connectors connected the fuel pump does not prime when the ignt is turned on. but it pumps when the engine is cranked/running. -hmmm that's all I can think of. I thought of adjusting the timing but I havnt touched the distributor position and the engine belts havnt been moved so I was pressuming that the timing would be ok as it was before I took it out of the original car. Thanks for any further thoughts.

It's a turbo, (I thought MFPI was also what it was called -but I dont know), Its the standard ECU that ran the engine fine before. Just since I've transplanted it it isnt running. It's hotwire MAF. 1989-1990 I'll check the ECU and fuel pump voltages and get back with more info. try and narrow it down a bit.

No check engine light, but I need to test the bulb as I have pulled around so much on the harness it may be badly connected. Should the check engine light come on with the ignt on but engine off? I'm not saying the fuel pump isnt on, I just cant hear if it is or not (I can hear it prime as the engine isnt making a noise at that stage). Running MFPI, ECU with four plugs, timing -stock dizzy and stock coil. The engine is a UK model - it hasnt got a O2 sensor - funny I know but true. I can get another ECU so I 'll start by swapping and see where that leaves me. -no LED, no check engine, making me think the ECU is dead.

Hi, after many months of work on this project I finally got the EA82T in my kit car. I've transplanted the stock ECU and loom, and think I've connected everything up as it should be. When I crank it over, it starts, runs for about 5 seconds then cuts out. If I pump the gas pedal it runs for a bit longer but its hard to keep it going for long. Anyone got any advice for what to start checking -I need some logic/system behind what to do next because I a little at a loss. Other info- I cant get the LED in the ECU to light up, with green connectors connected ign on/off etc. Would the car run as above with a duff ECU? When I turn the ignt on the fuel pump primes then stops, I cant hear if it is pumping after I start cranking the engine though. Just not sure where to go from here. any advice would be great, thanks. Habib:headbang: