habib99

Do you mean the ECU body itself has to be grounded? as in the external casing.

Thanks.

I know this has been covered a bit already but I have got a generic replacement made by bosch but it doesnt have the round ?pressure regulator or ?one way valve on the outlet end of it like the original pump. Should I just fit it up in line or do I need to get a one way valve in line just after the pump -if that what the round thing on the stock pump is anyway? thanks for any advice.

Yep - it came out of an automatic car

I think that is the injector resistor pack. The thing I took a piture of is similar but smaller and only has two wires not five. But the fact that it is so similar fits with the idea that it is a dropping resistor for the transmission.

Dude, that is a good shot, the car I took it off was a automatic and the other one is a manual -that's why I cant find it on the car I have. Cool, either way -RF choke or dropping resister I'm ok without it, thanks:clap:

I know -stupid - I cant remember, I took it off the rotten car and dont have the shell anymore. I cant find it on the other wagon that I have which is complete and running. -I'm just going to try the engine without it and see if the ECU throws any codes. If it is a RF choke then I'll be ok!

with the ohm meter on the '200' position (the one with an audable buzz with continuity) it reads 12.5 mean anything?

hee hee, at least they're not the 'numbers' from LOST (if you watch it). I am still not sure if people are serious or not about what it is! 4x4_Welder, do you still think its a RF choke?

ok here's the picture: Any changes of opinion, still think its an anti interferance device? -the wires are black and white.

I'll take a picture of it later. If it is an RF choke -where would it wire up/between? I'm probably not going to need it but am curious.

thanks.

One for the mods I've noticed that some people have donated to ??the running of this board, I gues that I should do the same, everyone on here has saved me so much time and hassle with advice and I want to contribute something to keeping it going, how do you do it?

So you are one of THEM :lol::lol: Cant remember where it was when I took it off, now that car shell is gone, just the loom and engine ecu and sensors left, the other complete car I've got, I havnt seen one of these on yet. I'll have a better look, maybe I'll post a picture of it!

Hi, continuing on the quest to get this EA82T to run, I have a small aluminium unit that looks just like the drop resistor pack except it's a bit smaller, it has two wires comming out of it with a round connector. ???? what is it????:-\ Cant find it on my wiring diagram!

Hi! and this guy 'Neuromantic' but he hasnt been on here for ages. So you actually from Wales now in NZ? Older gen Subes disapearing fast here now, it's all WRX/Legacy etc. Rust is the main cause of death -that's why I'm collecting EA82T engines to use for other purposes, the body may be gone but the engines got a lot of good life in them yet!

Thanks guys, that is such a huge help. My loom has a wastgate control solenoid connector but nothing to connect to - I had visions of burning the turbo out within minutes! Even on my wagon still running complete there is no WGCS -nothing behind the resistor pack and nothing between the actuator and the pressurised outlet pipe. Thanks again, can get on with wiring the fuel pump now and try a start up in the next few days:banana: You guys ROCK:headbang:

Hi, got a couple of EA82T engines, even with one still in the wagon -running fine I cant work out where the wastegate controll unit is. The wastegate itself, I can see is operated by a rod that goes into a cylindrical thing which has a vacume pipe attached to the intake (between the turbo and throttle body). I cant find anything with any electrical control and what I thought was some kind of atmospheric compensation. It is and the other engine I have is a UK model, could it be that there is no wastegate control unit on them? If there is where is it, what does it look like? thanks anyone for enlightening me on this.

I cant find anything that connects to the wastegate anyway - gonna post seperately to ask. Great if you update on your solution

Did you get an answer to this question, I've got the same dilema currently.

I reckon you can get away with removing everything except the brake servo pipe. But wont it be hassle to block them all up properly?

yeh actual flames! not yellow but blue, like a bunsen burner. I thought maybe a valve had got stuck and so tried some fuel addative - injector cleaner lubricator type stuff - drove around for a while and it improved quite a bit. So now going to see how it goes, try some more addative perhaps and hope for the best. Thanks for the reply, sorry the info is so vague, its a bit strange and a changing picture. If it wasnt for the exhaust flame I would have assumed that it was a dodgy fuel supply but the flame at exhaust makes me think that the valves arent working properly - does this make sense? If it doesnt clear up with my current approach then I'll post on legacyecentral too -thanks for the link

Anyone give me any pointers, the engine splutters like mad -loud exhaust and a blue flame comes out of the exhaust when the pedal is pushed normally. sometimes if you just gently press the accelorator you can build the revs up as normal but if you push to far then it starts spluttering again, take your foot off and it runs ok again. any ieas? the check engine light is not on!

I'm sure the diagram you need is in the manual somewhere, you ca ndownload it yourself, worth its weight in gold! http://www.economysuperstar.com/mile...u/service/fsm/ (thanks to MilesFox for hosting the files)

isn't the water pump run off the alternator belt? If not I've been mixing my water pump up with something else all this time!! :-\