habib99

Hi, since I owned my 93 Legacy there has been on and off squeeking from the bell housing area. It seemed to come and go in response to clutch depression/release. THEN, the flywheel broke a few weeks ago, the ring gear came loose from the flywheel! I've taken the tranny out to replace it now thanks to you guys and I assumed that the clutch throw bearing was the culpret for squeeking but I've now noticed a little bearing in the flywheel and wonder if this could be responsible, neither squeek when turned by hand and I'm worried about putting it all back together to still have a squeek. any opinions on what is more probably the cause of the squeeking and whether the flywheel bearing is available to replace? thanks for your advice again. Habib

Spare tyre well is the most common by far, with a scoop of some kind fabricated underneath and a route for the air to escape once through the rad.

Hi, I'm in the middle of putting an EA82T in a beetle based kit car, previously running a 1600tp. Got my adaptor from KEP too, they are very nice adaptors and a lot better than some others I've seen. The best thing is that the conversion plate replaces the original subaru flywheel housing so the engine isnt pushed further backwards in the bug. & look less like a dodgey conversion plate. Good luck! perhaps this thread would be better placed in the transplants forum?

thanks man.

Thanks. good quality parts supplier online? any recomendations?

Ok so maybe hasnt worked out all that good!! Ahh well I'll enjoy getting to know my EJ better anyway! So can anyone recomend a good place to mail order parts? I know I will have to ship to the uk but I find that this is cheaper than buying here. Also ----- assuming from what has been said that it is possible to take out the tranny and the engine will still be secure enough on its mounts to take the flywheel off? thanks to everyone for the guidance, very very usefull to learn from your experience

Sounds better and better every day -if its the starter then I'll be soooo happy! however, why is it making a really bad noise -like a metal rubbing/crunching noise- after the car has been started by pushing it in gear? Could I diagnose by starting the car without the starter in place/look at the starter to tell (once off). thanks again for any more advice

oh- cool, that would be better than replacing a flywheel. but then there must be something wrong with the starter because when I turn the engine over, the starter just whurrs round but doenst turn the crank, if I 'bump' start the engine then it runs but makes a noise like something isnt right in the bell housing. does this enlighten the situation?

Hi, a veteran of the older generation board, I never thought I'd be here (always thought my newer Legacy would never break down)! I think the ring gear has worked loose from the flywheel! (??if its related but the clutch/gearbox area has been making a squeeking noise on and off for months -the noise would stop sometimes when you pressed the clutch but sometimes it would continue even with the clutch depressed.) Can anyone advise on: 1) Why this might have happened? 2) The best way of getting at the flywheel/clutch for replacement - i.e gearbox out or engine out and any good links to proceedure or a quick step list of what to do. thanks a million for any advise, need to fix this motor up so I can get back to my EA82T project!! Habib

yep its gonna be a lovely little subaru powered motor. I'll post a pic or two in the transplants forum once complete and running

into a beetle based 356 speedster, not much room out back at all! besides I havnt got the whole evap system with the fuel tank, just feed and return.

thanks for replying, yeh not too worried about contribution to the environment, by using the engine in the first place instead of buying a new car I'm saving shed loads of 'resources'! & wont be doing that many mile anyway! I'll have a search and a read of more, thanks.

So do you just block the tubes off with dead ends? Could run long hoses, but if it doesnt make any difference I'd rather get rid! cheers guys.

(EA82T) Hi, I havnt got room for my carbon cannister in my engine bay (transplant) and wonder wether I can just block off the 4 pipes at the engine -will I get away with this? I know emmisions will be effected but that isnt a problem for me, however I dont want it to run crap! Also planning to block off the vapour line and just run fuel and return lines to the tank. Any thoughts?? Then I was going to place a smaller condensator catch 'jar' alla thread running here at the moment ('how to make your own...').

Are these 'codensators' the same things as 'oil catch tanks'?

Thanks, yeh I found the PDF manual -very handy Doesnt match the engine exactly but a great help & advice from this board's members I'm getting there! thanks again

Dont mean to distract from all the beer talk!!..... but between where and where does the catch tank connect - one suggestion above but not 100% thanks

I LOVE the fact that you've made something from bits and bobs -and then got it working -your road tests sound great. Surely everyone will want to try this out after all if it doesnt work you can just take it off! What about turbo models - cant think it through without looking at the engine but wouldnt it interfere with the EGR/PCV systems? Good luck and thanks for sharing your inovation Habib

Thanks for this info, Looks like I must have a mismatch of parts as people have said already! Anyone out there tell me what year(s) had the three plug ECU, if not I'll try a wreckers but not sure how much subaru specific knowledge they're going to have and dealers, hmmm they dont really want to know about these old motors anymore. thanks all, I'm not giving up on this one!

I tried this but the others I've seen are different -have different parts! Subaru really varied these parts from year to year and from market to market. I'm getting there -just the ignition, knock control left to work out

Thanks this is a help, MilesFox -you the man! & thanks for the offer Cougar funily enough it is an 1988 wiring diagram that seems to fit everything so far but it doesnt include the distributor or knock sensor on it!arararrgghh! ..then my heads are GEN ONE I have two distys to choose from -one has vacum advance mech unit and the other has a disc inside it with notches cut out at intervals (?optical device). The ECU is definately for MPFI EFI and has THREE plugs 34 wires in total. I guess that essentially my problem is that I cant figure out how to correctly wire up EITHER of the distys to the ECU and coil to ignite the engine properly, suppose I could just wire up the vacum advance model but it would miss the knock control and I dont really want to break my engine! I dont have the external knock control module and even if I did I wouldnt know where to attach it on the ECU or even if my ECU can run that unit/disty. every thing else is sorted out but this final bit has kind of got me stumped! any more ideas with this information? -I dont mind making things work by re-wiring/bypassing etc. This is all fairly temporary until I get MegaSquirt set up -then EDIS ignition will take over anyway

I was wondering the same thing about the green test connectors -why should they be connected in order to time the engine (if you've had the distributor out then you will need to fine tune/time it with a lamp and the connectors attached -but why?!!) Not even 180degrees out -its a random amount out -the three marks are not related as such to the TDC position. Can anyone say what to time the engine to ?20btdc? -at what rpm etc as that is bound to be the next step once the belts are on the right way.

One of my big problems is that I dont know what year it is as its a lone engine -the original car is long gone (I never saw it!) but it is a 1.8 EA82T MPFI. But the fact that all the wiring on the engine and loom match a diagram has been a blessing but the disty bit doesnt -maybe I've just got the wrong disty? But then again the diagram doesnt have a disty on it at all -just a ignitor and coil, that's it. I have found another diagram that matches the disty (one of the engine control 1/4 page service manual diagrams) but that shows a knock snesor and control unit (seperate from the ECU) THe givaway for this engine is that the ECU only has 3 plugs -all the other MFPI Turbo diagrams I have seen are 4 plugs. I was hoping this would be enough to identify it! thanks for reading and helping if you can

Decided to ask the most important question of all (rather than the rather long and complicated thread posted before which asked loads of questions -most of which I have worked out in the end with some help -thanks) Can anyone advise on wiring the ignition system on an engine using an ECU with a big number 3 on it (and it has only 3 plugs) -basically I have the ECU, the dizzy (4 wires: BW BY BR Y ), coil, knowck sensor in the engine. Please can anyone tell me how these items connect up? I have one wiring diagram that doesnt show the knock sensor anywhere (otherwise correct for the engine and ECU that I have) and another shows a knock control unit as a completely seperate part (seperate to the ECU and Disty/Ignitor but I dont have that part. please help -this is the final hurdle of a long race and I really really want to get this engine running! thanks

Also thought I'd post the answers to some of my earlier questions as I find them (incase anyone ever searches this thread): In the first diagram: 1 is feul return (to tank) 2 is Feul Supply (from pump) 3 is Evaporation tube (to top of tank via seperator etc) Still dont know what that broken pipe is (in the green circle) And dont know what thos electrical bits are Can anyone tell me if the 'knock control unit' referred to on a wiring diagram is seperate from the ECU (physically) and where it is? (I'm using a 1986 wiring diagram as it seems to match most of what I've got!) thanks again ps Miles Fox -love your tech articles -they have come in very handy indeed!