Phizinza

I'd never put a auto in my car... nevAr!

I've heard it eats rubber. And then I've heard that some people use it in normal cars and it doesn't.. I've also heard it eats alloy. But the Brazilians don't seem to have a problem Question for you, what mix is it? How much percent ethanol? I'd say 10% would be fine no matter what. Might need to tune your timming though because I am pretty sure ethanol is higher octane.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7333927711793956363 Took me 20mins of video'ing. 20mins to capture to my computer. 30mins to edit up. 10 mins to mix the music in. 40mins to blank out the number plates. And about 30mins to get it on the net, compressed and everything. I've done a 1 and a half hour DVD (a thing for some friends, concert.) 90mins to video it all. 240mins to editing two videos of the same thing together. Set the computer up to burn it to DVD, 10mins on manu and music. (computer took 4 hours to DVDatise it) 20mins to create a DVD picture 30mins to print 10DVD's then all I had to do was put the discs in as it wanted another. For a learner I'd say you could make a very decent video if you took 90 mins pre 1 min of video. I'd probably get it to a reasonable look with about 15mins pre 1 min. Also remembering you can't use Music unless you have permission (even if it's a friends, they can bit you back in the ***.) Just thinking out loud.

If you read the other post qman you can see that these tires can go higher then 5psi.. Some upto 25psi. Anyway, my thoughts are if you don't have the diffs to push them, good treaded tires are kinda pointless. I'm happy with my kumho m/t's!

I thought only the autos had those clutch packs. Normally FWD until loss of traction? I thought all manuals had just normal or lsd center diffs.

Ok.. I thought that 1st, 2nd, and 3rd were all the same. But 4th was a little lower and 5tha little higher. And the dual range is 1.51XX or something VS 1.49XX? With my 27" kumho's I can shift from 3rd to 2nd at 60km/h, and put it in 1st at 20km/h. The 85 with stock tires just crunches while softly changing from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 2nd... I have a feeling I'll stick with my box as I like it and I think it will have a high enough 4th with my 25.5"s If they had a LSD in the center, it's not the kind I would want (or care about) as I would want a LSD for the purpose of having more then 1 wheel spinning at a time. Anyhow, I just didn't like the AWD's in the sand, and I would think it would be worse on dry steep hills. As you don't use speed to get up as much as in sand.

Best thing to do is get a spare flywheel or two and prepare for a few flywheel changes while you get the best setup. Although it can be expencive to even balance a flywheel.

If you haven't done any mojor mods to a car before (engine swap) I would suggest not digging yourself into a project this big. You don't want to buy something, get stuck into pulling it all down and then get totally overwhelmed and not continue it for years to come. Do something like a EJ20 or 22 swap using your existing trans. Then you'll get a feel for what is needed. Plus you won't get an instant 300hp to get bored with a year down the track. Slowly increase power, that way you can stay exitied for longer. Just some thoughts of mine.

Normally what you do is take it to a mechanic/machine shop and get them to lighten and balance it. Although I don't know how much you would want to lighten it. If you take too much off the car won't run, and there may be a point where if you over work your clutch you can warp the flywheel from the heat. You'd get a new clutch at the same time, unless your on a real budget. I think it also messes with the timming, needing more advance?

I agree with you here. But I wouldn't buy anything like that myself. I do find a FSM manual helpful, but I've been fixing cars for too long, and if I don't know, my dad does. I'm not sure how many people would buy it, but it would be really good for those who have no clue as to even change the oil on their old subie. And the way prices are with mechanics for these simply jobs it could save someone a lot of money.

Theres two parts to a choke. The butterfly which adjusts the Mixture. And the throttle control which raisers the throttle. Get the adjustments right. basiclly when the choke is off the butterfly is fully open and the throttle is on the throttle stop screw. And it *should* work great.

Could be fuel filter. But when mine died* on my EA81 I had no troulbe starting the car even after a 4 day sit. The problem I found is it couldn't feed enough fuel at 6000RPM. Try cleaning up the earth wires (maybe even adding some more form the battery?) Also clean the starter motors wires. Might also be a coil problem, but again I would of thought you'd only 'feel' the coil breaking down at high RPM's. When you say it doesn't start, how long do you crank it for? I've had to crank my car for 30 seconds before it would start on a bad day. (not continuous of cause.) Oh, could also be a battery problem. Sometimes with a half dead battery it won't want to start the car. It can even sound like normal but the RPM's there just aren't enough. *didn't really die, just was being stupid and got replaced.

Better then spending thousands on a better ECU to not have to run a MAF, surely? I think its a great idea. I wouldn't understand how people could use a BOV without a setup like this with stock ecu. I didn't mean to sound like an *** at the beginning. I just sometimes get annoyed at ricer stuff that isn't needed. I just have to keep in mind my car is SO VERY RICER. I think I've got like $1000 into things and aren't needed. So sorry if I offened anyone. What I should appritiate here is your effort in doing the mod and telling everyone how easy it is. Ok, I'll shut up now, just know that I am contridictory and talk a fair bit of ********, and that I know I do.

More free flowing your exahust is the less low end you have. It's really a question of do I want a offroader, or a street mobile... Compromises are almost pointless If you lighten the flywheel, which on EA81's are very heavy, you'll feel like to have more top end. It will ruin your torque and screw up your idle though. I would really love to do up a EA81 just for fun. But really, old subies are cheap, and the cheapest form of more power is a EJ. Somethings telling me to put that EJ22 in...

Kenda ATV tire http://www.kendausa.com/atv/radial.html Super Swamper http://www.intercotire.com/site33.php Hmm... which looks 3x better in mud? Says they require a 8" wide rim.. Where you getting 14 by 8's? I guess you may get by with 7" wide, using the 72% rule with a little exaduration. Then all you need is a locking front and rear diff with a 2.2! gimme mud

Well these Foresters (which I assume have a simular trans to the Liberty) didn't have any form of lsd or clutch diff. All three were manual 5 speeds. They done better then any RWD or FWD would do, but there was still that 1 wheel spinning, 3 wheels not problem. I've driven 3 EA82 5sp's and didn't like any of them. All were crunchy and didn't just slip into gear. But admittedly I have only driven 3 EA81's with 4sp's and only one of those (my Brat) had a decent trans. Although the others wern't like the 5sp's, instead it was just hard to find the right part on the gear lever where the gear was and then it sometimes just goes GEZZZZ and then goes into gear. I understand old gearboxes are old and used. But I seem to dislike the 5sp's a lot more then the 4sp's. Other then the 5sp being stronger why are they picked over the 4sp? Is it just that higher 5th gear? At 100kmh (max speed limit here in Aus, 62MPH) my engine is at 3000RPM with the road wheels I run (25.5") I am quite happy with that. Yeah. I am thinking of just putting the EJ22 I have in the Brat (ingnoring all the rules and laws ofcause, cost too much otherwise.) My only concern is it has over 300,000KM on the clock, idles high, and has a engine check light. I really need to look at it more. I don't want to spend $500 rebuilding it, as I think when it has a problem I can spend that money. They aren't hard engines to work on.

In austraila there has been a few Brumby's (Brats) with either full WRX or STi suspension, brakes, plus running gear. On a forum I saw a write up on one guys STi conversion. Don't remember the exact costs but it was along the lines of $2500 for the Brumby, $6000 for the STi engine/gearbox, $4000 for STi suspension and wheels, $2000 other parts. And around $5000 fabrication work, plus he put it all in him self. He wanted to sell it for $15,000, registered and ready to go (which is a big deal here in Aus.) Quite frankly I am amazed it could even be registered.

I've just recently watched a bunch of AWD dual range Foresters drive around in sand. I must say I was very disappointed in the AWD (one wheel spinning, all others not doing a thing) and even the one with the $1500 dual range gearset (gives it a 1.7 to 1 ratio, instead of the 1.2 to 1 they come with) was pretty crap. If I were to use the Liberty dual range box I have sitting in my wrecked liberty(legacy) I would have to put a center LSD in it. And to my knowledge only STi's came with them, so your looking at $1000 bucks, plus $1500 for a decent low range. And if your cashing out that much why not spend the extra $1000 on a front LSD. So my $1500 project turns into a $6000 monster. Personally I am happy with FWD/4WD. Was just wondering, as I haven't ever damaged my gearbox (exept for reverse, which I have pretty much killed in one day of sand dunes.)

I'd like to hear from people with experience of how tough a dual range EA box is. What kind of power were you pushing through it when it let got? What parts broke? And so on. Anyone out there? I like 4x4 with dual range, but I'd like 150 to 200 horses under that hood.

The only thing I can think of that you are exposing the MAF to more is heat. This isn't a problem? Man I want a SC for my Brat ! Got pics of the setup? I pretty much can imagine what it looks like, but it would be good to see it for real.

You wouldn't be able to buy anything aftermarket/performance for an old EA81 surely? You might try looking up machine shop phone numbers and talking to them about custom lightweight pullys.

Are you talking stock BPV vs after market BOV? A BOV can be plumbed to work just like a BPV. They are essentially the same thing.

But seriously, making your own new ground wires is as easy as making toast. And a fair bit cheaper then $20... I can see how if you had totaly stuffed ground wires you could lose 12hp. But then starting would be almost impossible surely? 300amps through a wire that has trouble making a spark plug fire? Maybe see 2hp gain on a dyno, but I doubt you'd feel it with the butt dyno. Fixing/upgrading your grounds is a good idea. But spending that much on a kit is just...

You can even pay that mate half the coin in your ash tray other half to the washers.. If it were my car they'd be getting a very good deal. I don't like change, so it all goes into my center console thing behind the handbrake lever (Brat) Last time I emptied it I got $48

Sounds interesting. But I have no idea what anyone would want a BOV over a BPV. Personally I like what a turbo does, not what sound a BOV makes. Although a truly nice sound is when the turbo spools. Just my thoughts on the matter. This is a good way to keep that ricy sound and run the right mixture though. It's amazing how many people out there don't understand BOV's stuff up mixtures.