bgambino

Interesting anyone know how long these have been on the market in other places besides the US? The website brags about MPG's but states nothing specific...stupid! Anyone have some numbers on this? Do we have any members on our board that own one or who know someone that does? Would love to hear something about power...fuel economy and quietness...

I don't have the exact data in front of me but I find it odd that some of the (all?) 2.2 engines (95/96 especially,,but i think it applies into 97/8 or more) have a t belt life of 60k verus the others at 105k The engine layout/design is esentially the same (pulleys, belt routing etc) Why would these be 60k? Hmmm....could it be that the cross section of the tooth design was improved, thus allowing it to go to 105K? If so, then the cam shaft sprockets and toothed idler pulley have a different tooth geometry than the models that have 105k belts

Brian Can you explain what you mean by a lot of water? Do you mean clouds of vapor? color? smell? for how long? Or...do you mean dripping/pouring?out the tail pipe Also, I sent you a private emessage

dave Wish you didnt move...you would have been 5 mins from me...i'm in stormville over near the prison

to assess any possbile damage, what one needs to have is your definition of "overheat" Did you notice the temp gauge going up and at what point did you shut it off? Did you peg the needle to the top? how long was it driven like that and at what speed did it boil over? lots of gurglling sounds? Was steam pouring out?

Dave Are you in Cortland...Putnam county? I am in Dutchess

can you explain the process...i would love to learn...

not if you drain it first. there is a drain plug (looks like the oil drain plug). about 1 gallon will come out. don't lose the washer see if the pan has been dented if so, a wire may have gotten broken inside...that is common

Never mind nip....I see your reply...and here i thought you were drinking too much tonight...LOL...it's me who NEEDS a drink!

nipster....what about that potential heated seat project? Are you going to attempt it or freeze your hiney this winter I am definitely getting a remote starter this year...but a heated seat would be nice

here is the pic

a 93 or similar Legacy? assuming this is indeed my problem Looks like I would have to remove the castle nut holding the tie rod and the nut holding the ball joint For the ball joint I usually smack the control arm(?) adjacent to the ball joint while hoding a little downward pressure on it. I guess the same for the tie rod Now what about those two bolts attatched to the lower part of strut?? I remember reading that one comes off and the other you need to mark with a punch?...then only loosen it so as not to lose alignment. Looking at it...it sure looks like the two bolts need to come out I am clueless as to how the bolt affects alignment and why both don't have to come out to get the hub off How much is one of these bearings? OEM and aftermarket? Is there one in there or two like the loyale/GL's I guess I would have to take it to a machine shop...any idea what that usually costs? R&R

I would like to know how your mechanic "checked" the headgaskets.....just looking for external leaks won't cut it it sounds like when you rev the engine to higher rpm's it cools down...that would lead to believe that more water is circulating thus better cooling.... could the water pump be defective...seems remote (and if he used a subaru pump I really doubt it,,,,but I'm sure he used an aftermearket) Could be the beginning of a head gasket problem ...that's why the over heat condition is minor It's hard to believe it's an air bubble/pocket as it was so long ago that the system was filled we need to know if your fans are coming on If they are, do the thermostat and see what happens and maybe the cap like nipper suggested (use subaru parts only)

******************* If I'm not mistaken (I looked the other day)....above the center door molding, there is grey PAINT...maybe 1/2"-3/4"?...above that is the tape Thanks NIP....if mone are $100, that would be fine...it will make it look $1000 better...old "Green" will look mighty sharp Yeah, I want to get my spot fixed too...maybe I'll get a price...we can compare Hey NIP...did you give up on the idea of intalling a new heater in your seats....?was hoping you would be the guinea pig and take LOTS of pics and instuctions:banana:...go Nipper

Log the only flaw in your statement was my test using the funnel with the tube in my ear...I did this at 0-45 MPH right at both hubs....the rythmic sound was not audible.....yet it definitely is affected by the turning of the wheel (gets loud or quieter)...sort of sounds front/middle Even if it is a bearing...figuring out which side is the hard part I am trying to avoid danger,,, laying across the open hood and listen while someone else drives about 10MPH...hahaha

I have a 96 OB wagon with these rims...these babies really do corrode tire size is 215/70x15 what size is the rim? is it stamped somewhere? I like the "honeycomb" type rims on my 02 GT....would like to find something nicer (used) by the time I need new tires next year

can these be bought and replaced? This and some new rims will make my 96 OB look really good again

93 Legacy automatic First...I have torque bind Here's the dilemma tho...I have a rythmic groaning sound like a bad bearing Can here is at 5- 10 MPH and up. It's very pronounced (bought car this way). Makes the sound going straight and moving steering wheel to left...turn it right a bit and it subsides some So i'm gueesing a wheel bearing recent posts suggest grabbing the tire at top and bottom ...pulling top and pushing bottom simultaneousy and vice versa....I get no movement So I try spinning both front wheels to hear something...brake pads make it confusing so i remove and put tires on and spin...both wheels sound similar...not sure they sound abnormal...but I don't know what normal should sound like Looks like both axles are tightened the same (as looking from behind the wheel) Being bewildered...I come up with an idea that is sure to work I take a 5" diameter plastic funnel and a plastic hose to use it to listen while I drive. I listened to the outer CV/hub area....no rythmic sounds with hose to my ear (yet I can hear the sound with my other ear). I move it to the inner CV...then do same on other side....nothing! I say to myself...could it somehow be the rear? no because sound changes as I rotate steering wheel I am lost I don't want to waste effort and money without some degree of certainty...?

I've never had to drop a pan...but it should be a snap...about 20 10mm bolts and your in. Just don't try to take down the oil pan..which looks like a deep pan. The tranny pan iv very flat looking I would imagine there is a gasket you will need

Forget what I said Read this post...you may have a much simplier problem http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=91366&highlight=p0743 I should have looked up the code first...DUH!!!

Welcome FB You will find a lot of help on this board. The search feature is a good tool also. First, give us the mileage and if it's an automatic or stick. The 16 flashes at start up indicate there was some fault with the transmission on the/a previous running of the car. Look under the hood...left side (passenger side) near the firewall...there should be a small fuse holder (with a plastic cover snapped on top) marked "FWD"...open it..it should be empty. If there is a fuse in it, the last owner was hiding a problem called torque bind. With a fuse in there, the 4WD is disabled. If it is in there...take it out and do the following (if it's empty, continue with this test also): Take the car onto dry pavement and do a s very low circle (with steering wheel turned completely in one direction. If the car shudders, vibrates...feels like it is braking and won't make a smooth turn...you MAY have the dreaded torque bind But you may not....are the tires all the same brand? Are they inflated equally...and most important...is the tread depth equal on each? This "could" be causing the problem You would need to adjust all of these and do the test again to be sure. If all tires were ok per the above...and it shuddered...you would put the fuse in...repeat the test...if no shuddering....you have torque bind If it still shudders....I believe (and I will let my comrades chine in on this)...it may just be the Duty C solenoid (in the rear part of the tranny (we're talking about an automatic only---if a standard, you're toast).....which is something you can do,,,albeit you have to remove a small section of the tranny (pictured below)...hmmm....I am getting upload errors...I'll try to attach on the following post

Gary Do you have any clue why changing the fluid could change the symptoms??

thanks BH what did the job entail? any snags or advice? how did you know what to replace?

Thanks Gary but... In your first sentance are you implying that an additive will definitely fix it if (as in my case) the fuse stops the t bind?? I don;t see how that makes sense but I hope you are right LOL

Has anyone on here actually done it (I don;t mean just replace the tail section of tranny...I mean ground down those grooves etc) I want to know if that is all you have to do when you take it apart I did one fluid change...nothing...I will do two more and cross my fingers Anyone had experience with the fluid solving it? I know one of you guys mentioned yes....How does this help is what I want to know,,,,what does it do that sometimes it cures it? AND...was it immmediate that the change was noticed? I don't have the car insured and did not plan to...93 legacy