bgambino

Now guys...I have a hard time believing that no one knows the answer to the above (previous) post.... anyone?? thanks

Can someone chime in here...this has no bolts so is it truly a replacement part? I belive it was plug welded in place

Not so...I only use Subaru belts...this is the first time I am using the PCI pulley kit from The Import Experts tho....the belt that came with that kit is going to waste...

thanks OB99...much appreciated...!

Over a year ago, the battery was going dead...come to find out there was a hum coming from the ABS unit (front pass. side of engine compartment--where all those brake lines merge). I think the board said just unplug it...I did and it worked but of course no more ABS. If one want to fix this, is the electrical part only replaceable? (meaning, I don't have to disconnect all the brake lines do I?) I know there is some mixed opimions on the value of ABS in the snow (and we have snow in SE NY state!!!). Us seasoned drivers might have better control by pumping the brakes.... I would like to hear opinions on having it for a brand new driver...my son just turned 16 and I am working on the car in preparation that he will need it by next summer or so. I'm thinking it may be beneficial for a kid that does not have the experience we older ones have.....Thoughts?

thanks John and OB99W...! OB...I hate you...LOL...when are you going to give me lessons on finding these valuable endwrench articles...LOL

TB replacement on my neices 96 Legacy 2.2. Last time it was done by a respected local guy that has specialized on subaru for many years. I lined up things before taking it apart. This pic was after I finished but it was exactly the same when I started (the old belt line up). I made the mark with a razor blade in the driver side cam cover before starting (you can see it in background)...this was where the camshaft notch lined up prior to me removing old belt. When putting on the old belt I REALLY had to convince myself to leave it there before finishing up...it was a hard decision...LOL It ran like a top prior to doing the belt replacement so I went with it again. Started it before putting everything back together...fired right up...then stalled ...started again...seemed to run ok but stumbled at idle...uh oh...then I wondered if the alternator needed to be hooked up to run correctly. Put the belt on the alt. and she ran flawlessly (I thought my 99 2.5 ran normal without the alt...? when I did the TB on it) Had I moved the belt one tooth to the left(as looking at the pic), the white mark on the belt would definitely be on the other side of the notch in the platic cover...but the mark on the cam sprocket would be closer to the plastic notch than it is....I'm guessing that the plastic cover is not that accurate or somehow (I don't know how) shifted some Oh...and the other camshaft lined up perfectly as well as the crank sprocket

I'm sure many older cars have these half corroded off but I'm sure they are good at keeping mass amounts of water from splashing onto the rotor....Looks like it may have been plug welded in place at the factory....(rear rotor of 96 legacy)

I don't see what the purpose of this ring....this may be way off base but is this possibly a heat sink for the rotor???

Gary I hear you...but I should have clarified ....I am more interested in the effect of bypassing the 0420 code being thrown...what are the potential downsides?

I know that some of you know the answer to this,....I don't really want to spend $100.76 plus shipping to get an OEM o2 sensor for my sons 96 legacy if I don't have to....what do you guys think? thanks

******************** here's my question You mean bore out the 1st one AND THEN re-tap some threads in it...correct?? If 420 cel is always on...isn;t it possible your gas mileage will suffer? Could there be any other neatives to doing this? anyone? thanks

nice find Nip so when ya gonna do it http://www.heatedseatkits.com/index.html

of course you would...because you're that kinda' guy:lol:...don't leave us...! and if it were me...I would do two more dump and refilling with fresh fluid before trying the trans x...that way you will know most of the fluid is fresh and you can leave the trans x in for awhile

Shame on you Nipper...! dangling a carrot in front of him like that and not delivering...LOL There would seem to be a possible miracle elixir for your problem.... Trans-X Automatic Transmisson Slip-stop & Leak Fix "read all about it".... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87708&highlight=forward+engagement

Intersting..thanks for sharing Here in southeastern NY it is amazing what subaru must spend on advertising...they have radio and tv ads more so than others Also interesting to see in that article how many foresters are sold compared to other models...I did not realize it was so high....it must help that they look a little more modern (styling) this year sad to see the dismal sales of the tribeca...personaly I did not like the body style the first day I saw it

sorry johneggs...I have to concur with gg...I have had at least 25 subarus since 1979 and I never replaced one....UNTIL....I saw that johnny here had em for 50 cents a pop (oops, price went up)...and I said what the heck...and bought like 25 of them I'm a believer...halellujah brother!!!!

I like the ide...wish I could take advantage of it by owning a WRX Got anything like this for the legacy's???

that's what I'm thinking too When mine jumped a few teeth it kind of puttered to a stop. would crank over and nce in awhile it almost sounded like it would start but didn't

ok guys...I know there has to be 20 of you out there who must know the answer...does the plate on the back need the anerobic sealant? I did not see any when I removed it. If not, why not? thanks

I have a new plexiglass lens for over the speedometer cluster....how do you get that darn black frame off...I took the 2 screws out but of course that did not do it. The older models were so easy..LOL

you da'man Nip...take plenty of pics for me. have you gotten a price on the heating elements? That might rule it out for me right away

But if the main switch and the individual door switch are not working...I would tend to think it is the motor no? Unless someone knows that when the main switch goes, the door switch won't work either ...but that seems odd

96 (said above) well that explains it Can someone explain why subaru switched to a different lifter arrangement when the hydraulics needed NON adjustment?? Why switch to something that requires more maint?

Some people use a small pick tool...kind of like a dentists tool for scraping your teeth I tried this the first time and apend 45 mins per cam seal and was cussing up a storm Got to be careful not to scratch/gouge the alum. housing Based on recommendations here, I purchased this on ebay http://www.autobarn.net/lisleshaftpuller.html By coincidence I used it for the first time today WHAT a dream!....if it does not start moving right away...I tap it in a smig just to break it loose...then pull out If you take the oil pump out, its real easy to take out seal