bgambino

I've had very good experience with them on several ocassions....Ken and John were always very helpful. Hopefully it was just a fluke. Last time I was waiting for my order and the head gaskets were not in stock...I really needed them for the upcoming weekend when I was going to work on my car...they were willing to split the UPS Red shipping costs with me. So I have been very pleased

a few related questions to this thread... 1--I read about those putting in amsol synthethic in their tranny. Now if you have just regular (non synthetic) in your tranny and you drain out only 1/2 the amount (thru drain plug)....and replace with synthetic...well, that does not sound like the best move, no? It's like having 2.5 quarts of synthetic oil and 2.5 quarts regular oil in your engine... 2--on my 96 OB automatic wagon...are there any external/internal filters? or an internal screen needing cleaning?

I am assuming the noise does not happen during driving in general I had a similar problem with my 92 loyale but only in reverse I'll bet it is related to the exhaust pipe shaking upon acceleration and it vibrates against something else---the intial rpm increase torques/twists the engine and attached exhaust pipes Best thing is to get under their with it on ramps (brake on and foot brake firmly applied---maybe even another vehicle pulled behind it if you don't trust the person in the drivers )and have them tap the pedal while you look/listen and feel around down there

I agree about reading the dipsticks...kind of sucks I have had dozens of 80's and 90's GL's and loyales...but this is my first newer generation (96 OB)...you clean the stick, drive it back in and they are not the cleanest reading...seems there is oil slopped all over it...even when letting it sit...weird

could a bad ground connection cause this?

I'll guess $2000-3000 depending on if you blew the cat if too much to fix and you want to sell it private message me

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/ProductDisplay?partNumber=00910172000P&langId=-1&storeId=10153&catalogId=12605

Hang in there Nipper...it does suck getting older with the corresponding maladies... Keep the experience coming...!

I was recently looking for a new battery...I have two Champion batteries..one in my 96 OB and one in my 77 Dodge plow truck. Both have 2001 dates on them so they have been in use for at least 6 years now. THey are 975 CCA which I like. They are both still good but I can sense some weakness at extreme cold temps. I bought them at Sams but cannot find anything on the internet that shows they still deal with batteries...I would have bought 2 more Can't seem to find high CCA's like that any more.... Hey Nip...I appreciate all your contributions here but you need a little thicker skin...stay cool man...

I think mine is seized due to corrosion....96 OB wagon Anyone know the best way to fix it? Motor is/was fine...switch was on for a while and when I was taking the motor out it was hot---hope it did not burn up....i would have thought there would be a thermal overload switch built in. I have some PB blaster on it...what next? A torch?

I am reflecting back on my head gasket replacement I did a few weeks ago....a couple of the bolts on one head creaked when turned rather than a quiet smooth turn like the others I was not done with the torqing when this happened so I backed them all out and oiled them all again...even inside the hole....yet, these same bolts creaked again Now in hindsight, I am worried I may not have enough torque on them compared to the others I don't really remember exactly when in the sequence the creaking started tho... 96 EJ25 BTW....I had a new CCR short block that I was bolting to.... Got more money into this car than I wanted to...but she is running like a dream...as long as the tranny lasts, I have a new motor

Danko I don't t hink anyone on here would recommend ANYthing other than Subaru head gaskets....absolutely not The are subaru dealers who sell over the internet for like 10% over their cost...saves you a fortune compared to your local subie dealer I have used http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ Ken is a good guy in the parts dept My engine overhaul gasket set was $250 It is cheap insurance...you will not be doing head gaskets ever again on this car...spend the few extra bucks

Note where the hood release lever is. A few inches above that ther should be a small little plastic door that flips open...this is it. Plug in the tester and turn on the key--no need to start car

I have never done it in the car--only with the engine out...looks cramped but others say it is doable...Hell, I'm having a hard time getting the spark plug wires off without a tool...lol If you decide to sell it instead...private message me as I am only 1.5 hours from you Bill

:mad:what a piece of crap these wire designs are I have brand new Subaru wires on...I made SURE I put plent of silicone grease on them (2 weeks ago) and I can't get the darn thing off to test for spark for my current no starting condition They are in such an awkward spot...you would think there would be a better handle You should have heard me cursing up a storm I love subbies (for 28 years now)...but sometimes certain designs piss the hell out of me... Anyone have a trick on how to grab these P'sOS

Gary thanks I have only driven it about 25 miles ...I will go under it and look for that "inhibitor" switch and see if anything looks broken Any idea what it costs? And this will shut down the engine? A guy at work has a reader so I will get it tuesday And I'll turn the car over again and see if that AT lite blinks again

-->>the humming sound from the tranny sounds like it is right inside the pan...put my ear to it Prior to driving it that night...I had topped off the tranny fluid a little more than I liked so I took a very small soft tubing and guided it down the filler neck several times to withdraw some fluid (I mention this but I don't see a real connection to the car dying on me later and not starting)--- I went out this afternoon and tried to start it---it started for like 3 seconds...ran like crap..then stalled and would not start again---tried some starter fluid...nothing any clues? Got the battery off to charge i Will that erase any codes that might have been there??? ************** Hey guys I'll try to be brief on the history I bought this OB 2.5 DOHC w/ auto tranny with blown HG's...nice car otherwise Did HG's last year and bought all new idlers, tensioner, WP, wires , plugs, filters PCV--had heads done...lots of stuff--has 135K Car ran great A month later , bottom end of motor was making a knock---so I parked it This fall I decided to buy a short block from CCR Just put it on the raod and was running like a dream today Drove about 20 miles Took kids to go bowling tonite and she just died...almost like out of gas...but full tank She would crank but not start The cranking sound seemed a bit odd...kid of a fast-slow kind of rythm---but maybe I was reading more into it Had it towed home....tried to start again...just cranked over I shut the key off and looked in the eng compartment--I could hear a very faint hum with the key off Sounded like it was from the TPS (I think thats what it is---has a hold down screw which the part can pivot for adjustment)--it's close to the intake snout on the pass side This sound went off after a minute Oh...I did turn the key on and off and could hear the fuel pump 3 second hum Then...I turn the key on and heard a louder hum and it is coming somewhere down near the tranny ---and it does not stop until I turn key off I think I remember the AT Temp lite on dash blinking prior to that with key on (not with car running----this was after car was towed home) Any help getting my baby running would be so great It's rare that I end up buying a car and sinking more into it than it is worth---this one is a little over that point now...but I have a new engine....

2003 impreza RS There looks like a bulb out directly between the tach and sepeedometer ---how do you get to it and is it a typical bulb that an autoparts store would have

03 Impreza RS 2.5 SOHC 105K 5 speed manual What do you guys use to hold the camshaft sprockets while taking the bolt off and on? Is there a universal tool to hold the crankshaft pulley while putting the bolt on (taking it off is easy)-- it is a 5 speed so there seems to be nothing in the porthole by the flywheel for a big screwdriver to latch onto. Get a load of this...I take the T belt tensioner to my local subaru shop because Haynes says it should be don't in a vertical hydraulic press. I ask the parts guy if a tech would press it in for me and I would pay him. I swear he comes back within 2-3 minutes max with it in his hand. When I asked about using a press and going slow...he says nahh...they just throw it in a vise...jesus...I could do that...I did it with the piston type tensioner in my 96 OB---and I went really slow. I hope the idiots did not go too fast and damage the thing:mad: My 96 OB wagon--automatic I read somewhere about a certain brand of trans fluid that was good on this board...any recommendations? Are we saying that a name brand is better than walmart brand? Don't they all meet a certain SAE spec? What about diff fluid recommendations?

Take the tube off the intake manifold and spray some starting fluid in there and try to fire it up

Sorry guys...I have not been around since I posted this thread. I am pretty sure this sound is not a lifter (yes hydraulic). I wish it were, then I would feel comfortable driving it long distances. It has gotten slightly worse over the 5 weeks I've had it on the road. Besides at start up....if I am going up a long slight grade...and it delays shifting up to 3rd and I'm doing like 45...if I ease off the gas the knocking/rattling is very pronounced. When idling and you rev it, it sounds like a lower end knock to me $1750 isn't terribly bad for a rebuilt block when you figure I could get 100k more out of her...assuming the (gulp) auto tranny lasts...lol

thanks skip oh...and thank you for your contributions on here...I used your HG write-up as my step-by-step guide I llove subarus and love learning about them Altho...I think subaru sucks for this HG problem and since driving them since 1980...altho they have become nicer...more powerful...more comfortable...those 1.6/1.8 D,GL,Loyales where the MOST reliable cars ever!!! not filled with all these friggin sensors and crap And talk about easy to work on...nothing compares

I have to find my link and write to them but i wondered if they sell just a rebuilt short block with nothing else on it I got screwed...bought a 96 OB with HG blown...seemed to run good...did the job...valve job...spent on allnew stuff, timing pulleys yada....within a month i hear a low end knock...knocks on start up for a second or two til the the oil pressure builds. Sickening after all that work. 136k but interior is like new...solid....damn! wish i could find a wreck

recently finished HG job and got this baby going...purchased it with the bad HG so I am just getting used to it It definitely has this whirring sound. WHen accelerating it is relatively quiet...even very light pressure on the accelerator As soon as you release your foot off the gas it whirs...all the way down to about 15 MPH I don't think its the tranny cause it will whir when coasting in nuetral I am guessing wheel bearings....? Not sure how to tell front or back I am very familiar with GL/Loyale wheel bearing replacement on front. Is the 96 OB similar? Are there 2 in each hub? Can you tap them out with a drift? I know the rear bearing is much more difficult to replace and never did it on the GL/Loyale 4WD models Anyone offer insight on doing the rears? thanks

thanks nipper Desertrat,,,Great post! Sounds like a real pain in the arse You said "well the aftermarket seat heater kits cannot be used in many vehicles that have leather seats" I have cloth seats What are these "after market heater kits? Like a universal element used to replace the OEM inside the seat? Where do you get them and about how much do they cost? With all that work, I would never spend $150 or more...I'd rather spend that money on a remote starter installation