bgambino

Guys please look at new development....HELLLLPPPPP

I know someone knows the answer to my question....which color wire is the 12v power feed to the radio (at the back side of radio)

have a 91 loyale wagon...basic am/fm cass---need to attach an AM noise supressor....which color wire on the back of radio is the power supply....I thought it was the blue...clipped it and power was cut off---put supressor on line and it did nothing to help never had such noisy AM on any other sub before---increases with engine rpm

Skip..thanks... but where exactly is this other sensor and what does it look like? The one I know of is on the pass. side of the intake. Are you saying it is a sure bet that it is bad? Any way to test? thanks...you are a real asset to the board! Bill

After 2 hours ...went out and car starts fine...!wtf.....maybe I did not explain my problem this morning very well....you guys were suggesting thermostat...?...the car was NOT starting....7 fast flashes on the ECM with key in the on position--BTW:ANYONE KNOW WHAT THE 7 FLASHES MEAN?>>>NOTHING WRITTEN ABOUT IT THAT I CAN FIND.... Drove it ten miles and back...seems OK..but a little leary about what is going on---temp still is at about 1/4 on gauge like before but heat is ok Dealer did not have a thermostat (figured I would change it anyway)--bought one from carquest----In 24 years owning many sub's, I never had a problem with non OEM thermostats----cant change it now...its a blizzard here in SE NY ******************************* OK....seems you guys were right...ohm resistance reading on old thermosensor were non existent---got new one from 1st subaru (that place is a great find...thank you went out to start car to move it...0 deg F out....stalled quuite a few times as it runs rough with bad sensor----took out old,,,put in new---(could wiring be any shorter...god)----turn key and she fires up quickly....and immediately dies....now cranks and will not even cough....ECM with key on is blinking 7 fast flashes (this is a 91 loyale non turbo auto 4wd wagon with SPFI) Disconnected batt...and reconnected...nothing different I read that to clear codes to connect two connectors by firewall in eng compartment by wiper motor (info I have says these should be green and other black...I have green and other is white) connected both and still no start---engine is cold BTW While green is connected with key on there is a rythmic click...on...off...on...off(somewhere on manifold and also on something on top of the ECM) What the hell is going on? Anyone???we got 12 " coming today Just got this baby on the rode..was running great...check eng. lite comes on when I start it (idle is low and it hesitates) ---I drive it and lite goes off after 4-5 miles(after a mile or two, the idle is actually kind of high when I stop, 1800RPM.)..---when lite goes off ,she runs smooth book says coolant temp sensor or circuit I cleaned the connector blade on the coolant temp sensor (was a little green) hoping for an easy fix....no luck..lol Anyone know a simple way to diagnose...hate to buy one if not the real problem I am assuming the computer thinks the engine is warm and is sending the wrong fuel/air mixture I had put a new theromstat in a few weeks ago when I did timing belts---funny that this car temp gauge reads about 1/4 high when at temperature where all my others ran at exactly 1/2---its got plenty of heat and the elec fan comes on and off OK---was thinking I should go in and push needle up a little (I think I had done that with the gas gauge needle years ago on another Sub. and it holds the new position--anyone ever try this?.....I am a little anal about the gauge reading where it should..LOL) thanks

Do many use MMO (I finally figured out this is Marvel Mystery Oil...LOL) on a regular basis....or only lifters are noisy?..when using for ticking lifters, how much is put in crankcase....is it left in for the 3000 mile duration? I saw this post...."and running a can of Seafoam into the engine to burn out accumulated carbon (if there is any)"..........what is Seafoam?does it go into engine oil?...is it a good idea to use? what is this mean....OB1...OB2....something about Generations of Outback engines?...can someone explain?

Grossgary what do you mean by "front" seals? the it is leaking where the axle stubs attach to the side of the tranny... How would I know if it were a 4EAT tranny? thx

any other assistance out there? thanks

some of the posts here recommended using the OEM valve cover gaskets rather than aftermarket versions....dealer wants $20 Each....while that seems a little excessive....it gets worse .....they want $6.20 Each for the special bolt washers.......what the f^&%.......there's 6 of them!!! Any suggestions???

hey guys.... I was under the car today and I notice some antifreeze leaking...it appears that the thermostat is under the engine now? as the lower radiator hose seems to connect to what appears to be the thermostat housing...correct? Is the unit above (connected to)the housing the water pump? It seems the leak is coming from the gasket between this and the block. Whats involved in replacing (assuming thats what it is)? With 110K on it, I have to assume the T belts are probably due (are these 50-60k like the loyales?)

Zik I had the same annoying buzz from my former 95 legacy 5 speed(dont recall if you said auto. or 5 spd)----was annoying didn't get much advice when I posted here...seems to be a common occurrence

I have done tons of work on GL's Dl's and my loyale's...but virtually nothing on a Legacy I think my niece's legacy has leaking valve cover gaskets(just washed it yesterday and waiting for it to leak) Any tricks to replacing?...seems to be only 3 bolts (interesting that they are not around the perimeter) triied to tighten but could not move.....do the bolts ever get stuck? what about torqueing in the new ones? OEM or carquest brrand? thanks...this is an awesome forum to have

interestingly, my wife's new Honda CRV calls for 5/20....1st time i've heard of it being used.....but I am from the old school...not interested in syn. oils....will use 5/30 every 3000....the car will surely run 250K (that is, if I were driving it...her?...who knows) PS...she was paying $50 for an oil change at the dealer....I said...WHAT THE HELL FOR!!!!!!!!?????? She mentioned the recent fire problems bla blah blah....I called the service dept and said ...whats up with the fire hazard?....it was all about letting oil drain on a hot exh manifold...and he said sometimes people have left to old gasket in place.... Holy CRAP......I told her...that's the last time you're going to those crooks

Tachometer...I appreciate the expertise in your answer...but everyone is missing the point of my question,,,,,it is NOT "can I use different SIZE tires front vs rear".....I will keep the same 185/70/13 on all 4's My question is ....if the fronts are bald and the rears are new (all are same exact brand)...is that bad for diff......it seems that it is Now....I have relatively new tires on the rear...I need to buy new for the front....Since it is impossible to get the same BRAND....is it perfectly ok buy any brand/model of the same size ( I thought I heard that different brands and styles have enough difference in the circumference that it may not be a good idea for the differential) Again, nthe car is a 91 loyale auto. push button 4WD (non turbo)--do not know what kinf of differential it has thanks all

Cannot measure to compare as the good tires on the car are mounted and inflated...the tires I would look at and measure in the tire shop are not mounted/inflated---there HAS to be a difference.....?

OK I've read stuff that it is very important to use same type tires on all 4's(as well as tread depth being consistant all around)....otherwise, stress on the differential... I have a 91 loyale automatic 4WD...push button 4WD If I am in 2WD....would it matter if fronts were bald and rears were new (hypotheically)---no stress on diff?....Wouldn't there be stress ONLY if I engage the 4WD??? I have also heard that you should have the same brand on all 4's because diameters can fluctuate even if all are 185/70x13 The problem is that I have 2 very new looking tires on the rear but I need to get new ones for the front...and I cannot find the same brand (Korean made)...and I don't want to replace all 4 since rears are great. I never us 4WD unless there is snow on the road..... Opinion/adviceand expert direction welcomed...LOL

well...if I had a manual I wouldn't need to ask...LOL....I don't think a Haynes would cover this would it?...anyway....Haynes stinks...I could write a better book for the do-it-yourselfer. Best book ever was John Muirs......wish he still wrote them...a genius

I have a 91 Loyale wagon, 4WD auto. (non-turbo)....definitely has a diff. fluid leak....looks like it is coming from the stub on the side of the tranny where the CV axle connects (maybe both sides). --How tough is seal to replace? --Can I do it without removing tranny (oh God please say yes,,,,LOL) would I HAVE to remove Y pipe --you know what will happen if I do...a couple of threads will strip in the engine block(but I can deal with that) --Pry the seal out and push/hammer a new one in(HOW--this is the big question)? thanks

Years ago I made a tool to rotate the piston to push it back in.....but, why does it have to be done this way....I mean, why not open the bleeder screw and push it in with a clamp?

well...the trouble code problem was simple and stupid...someone had the green connectors plugged together(one of the trouble code connectors--maybe the diagnostic one!) thanks for all the help...especially skip! still have what I think is frt wheel bearing noise...and of course you cannot really tell which side...I hate that job!

On this forum I see references to engine codes (which I do not identify with)Does anyone have a list of engine codes and corresponding engine type/sizes/year/car model?...for example....e81 or e81t,etc. Also....is there a way to get emailed each time someone responds to your post.....since the posts are not numbered,how do you come back in a week and locate your post?...just by remembering the date you submitted it? thanks

thanks Skip...it IS an American.....on the links, I see nothing that directs me to the conn's being under hood...only references to under dash...did I miss that point?

sorry skip---that was a stupid omission---91 loyale 4wd auto. non-turbo wagon----I read the link---says to connect the 2 connectors near the ECU (unless they are somewhere elese on my model)---I hope there are ONLY 2 in that location...?

well.....I didn't get much of a response to my trouble code(s) problem on my last post.....I am going to search for grounds and clean them and maybe run a direct ground from battery to body......but does anyone know how to wipe out the system and start fresh.....simple explanation please;-) thanks Bill

I usually tap a 7/16-14 and put a bolt with lock or star washer and never had a problem with them loosening....and never had to drill the Y pipe flange either